Not really, the stock UCA is bolted to the shock tower which is welded to the frame, the coils and strut rods are also bolted to brackets that are welded to the chassis. However in this kit it looks like the entire suspension system is bolted to a plate that is bolted the chassis. I'm not bashing the kit, I've never used it, but I have a lot more faith in the weld on kits as they spread the weight of the car over the entire frame rail. Instead of just a couple bolts.

 

If i won the lotto http://www.griggsracing.com/ would be it.bolted on is fine if the right grade bolts are used.

 

yeah, if i so happened to have 13k to blow i would buy a griggs as well

 

And if the subframe and preparation of the existing chassis to accept it are both done correctly.

Most unibody cars carry the engine, transaxle, front suspension (other than the upper strut mounts), and steering on a subframe that's bolted on. So it's not exactly an oddball approach.

The Mustang II suspension is OK in smaller and generally lighter cars, but its geometry is not necessarily any better than the 60's Mustang, and may in fact be worse. Stiffly sprung, it can be made to work quite well, again, in the smaller cars. But the biggest attraction for swapping it into a Classic usually involves clearing out some room for swapping in an FE, 385, or a Modular motor (in which cases handling is not normally a main concern).


Norm

 

I was thinking of going with the either the Griggs or the TCP setup. I'm leaning towards the TCP setup since you can buy it a piece at a time and I don't really have 9 grand to buy it all at once.

I want my car to handle like a new one but I'm not planning on doing any open track events just some winding roads around the southeast.

Having said that from what I have read I agree with Norm on the MII setup.

The geometry is off compared to what you can buy as alternatives in the aftermarket arena.

 

If your suspension now is cooked as they say, any new replacement, including bone stock, is going to make the car ride and handle much better. What you've got to ask yourself is exactly how the car is going to be driven before plopping down the dough. A Griggs is undoubtedly overkill if your going to be just driving it on the street. There are many that will tell you that an upgraded mostly stock suspension is the way to go for good handling and bang for your buck. The shelby drop is a must, as are subframe connectors. Roller perches and perhaps some additional rollerized pieces (Opentracker Products) and an oversized front sway bar to round it out. Budget and projected use should be your guide, there are many options so do your homework and think it out. I myself found a Ron Morris coil-over set up on ebay for much less than retail. I haven't had the car on the road yet......

 

Chillin, the plan for the car is going to be a daily driver. I hope to be able to drive the thing cross country with NO problem. So in terms of upgrades, I know that I will have to do the brakes, and suspension for sure. But I was just wondering if going to a kit would be the best option or upgrading the current components and which one in the long run would be more cost effective. I am leaning towards the kit myself, however, like most of us I am on a tight budget. What do you suggest?

 

For a street car, you'd be more than fine with stock control arms, UCA drop, roller perches, slightly stiffer springs, sway bar, export brace, monte carlo bar, and possibly subframe connectors. The UCA drop really does do wonders for handling, and best of all, it's free. The roller perches are the only pricey item in that set, but if you get them through Day at http://www.dazecars.com, he'll get you a good price on them. He can also supply the UCA drop template and a 17/32" drill bit for cheap.

 

I have not driven a car with upgraded suspension, but I was in your boat to some extent last year. My car's steering components and suspension was pretty worn. I replaced all the worn stuff with new stock stuff. At that time, I added a MonteCarlo bar, upgraded the front sway bar, added a rear sway bar, rear traction bars, subframe connectors, plus a bunch of other small stuff. I should have done the Shelby drop, but had a ton of other things I was working on and just skipped it. I did a allignment based on the specs outlined on this forum and put some new tires on. The car handles pretty dang good now. I am sticking 45mph corners at 70 with no issue. The steering has some slack in it still but that is from the power assist valve and is just native in that design, I think. The car feels like an old car, which is part of what I like, but it also kicks some ars. I refuse to go rack and pinion, so I am content with what I have which is good quality good working 40 years stuff. I want to keep the car a restomod but have period correct stuff, so I have high performance high quality stuff which often means replacing stock parts but not changing over to new technology like air bags, R&P, etc. It is really your choice, but there are things you can do to have fun with the car and not loose the authenticity of a classic, IMHO.

I must say that my next suspension mod will be TCP upper and lower control arms, struts, springs, etc.

My point is, the nice stuff that I want to add will give me some tuning abilities and will also give me the Shelby drop, but I am not expecting huge changes above what I have. If there is a big change in the handling, I will be tickled pink. You may just need to freshen things up.

 

Huh? All suspensions are bolt-on, new cars and old cars.
The suspensions that require welding or cutting are to modify the existing frame and/or shock towers so the new (bolt-on) suspension pieces will fit.