I think Starfury hit it on the head, that is an excellent list geared for a daily driver and a modest budget. I might add adjustable strut rods but thats it. Try these sights for great products at good prices. You don't have to buy it all at the same time, upgrade it systematically.

www.streetortrack.com
www.opentrackerracingproducts.com

 

Urban, why the dislike of rack and pinion, it seems like one of the most common upgrades. Thank you for all the input! I had been getting used to seeing $2000 price tags on things so these website listings made my jaw drop! Thank you again!

 

I don't know if you are thinking of adapting a rack & pinion directly to the early Mustang steering knuckles or swapping in a complete steering and suspension from some donor car or aftermarket kit. But there's quite a bit more to doing it right for a daily driver or corner-carver than people may be getting by with for dragstrip use.

Undoubtably, it's possible to make a r&p conversion end up better than the OE linkage, particularly as regards eliminating the linkage-assist power steering. But there are far more ways to screw it up, and the benefit:cost ratio just isn't there for lots of folks.


Norm

 

I understand that the suspension is 'bolted on', but the stock suspension is bolted to a bracket that is welded to the frame, much more area to spread out the weight. While some of this aftermarket stuff is bolted to a bolt-on bracket so all the weight is on a very small area. If I hit a pot hole at 50MPH I don't want to have to worry that my bolt on braket may be loose or that it's putting strain on a very small area of the frame rail and could sheer off. The only kit I would seriously look at is one that 'boxes in' the frame rail or that uses the stock shock tower, since that's where the weight of the car rests.

 

Absolutly correct, sorry for the mis-understanding.
I have heard this from other sources too, that it's much better to keep and
use the shock towers to carry the weight as designed by Ford. I think a strut setup like the RRS, would be the way to go (if your keeping the towers).

 

Norm where was you at when everyone started the mustang 2 kits are the best thing ever for handling.Griggs is overkill for a street car but it is the only way i know to keep the handling with a mod motor.Reaver117 fox body and up use a k member everything up front is bolted to it some how most fwds are the same way.

 

What I say about R&P is based on reading on this forum and others. As Norm says, R&P is a MAJOR upgrade that can be a HUGE BIA and turn out all wrong if done wrong. I just ain't easy getting a rack under a classic mustang. The other reason and maybe larger reason I am against it on my car is the nostalgia reason. I am building a restomod hotrod, but I want to use performance parts that are similar or even available back in the day. I am all about taking out crummy stock stuff and putting in performance parts, if it makes sense to me in keeping with the spirit of the car. R&P was not a mod on mustangs back in the day. Neither was EFI, OD trannys, etc. It is great that other people like that and there is no doubt that a R&P car with coil over rear end and EFI motor will ride and perform better than it did originally, but then it is not a classic to me any more. To me it is a 88 Mustang with a 68 body. Again, no ill will to those with EFI and R&P, it is just not for me on this car. TCP and performance disc brakes, on the other hand, are improved on stock type technology, so it is go as soon as I fix some other issues.

 

Most bolt in kits use a grade 8 or higher bolts which are hard as hell to sheer off.Unless your in one nasty wreck you got nothing to worry about.

 

Dunno. But if you give me a link and a time frame I might have an idea where I might have been spending most of my online time. Or if I even was online.


Norm

 

I hear what you're saying and I agree, but the concours correct Mustang or even the 100% original Mustang is a rarity. Most of our cars are modded.

To keep with the spirit of originality, my car has add-ons that (for the most part) were only available in 1969. EFI, R&P, Indi rear suspension would indeed make it a modern car with a 69 shell and interior, but there was a point where I drew the line. I finally went to a pointless distributor, but not modern electronic ignition. And I doubt any of us who have DDs wnat to ride on polyglass tires. I think one can add sturts or coil-overs without severly damaging the originality of a classic. R&P is a major change, not an add-on, so that's where I would draw the line for "classic car" though. Most of it is just personal choice.

CP