1966 289 voltage regulator
Have you checked the battery? Will your car die while its running or it wont crank at all?
I just had to replace my battery. Once I jumped it it would run fine since the alt and voltage regulator was good but the battery wouldnt hold a charge after I cut it off. I would invest the $20 in a multimeter if you dont have one.
I just had to replace my battery. Once I jumped it it would run fine since the alt and voltage regulator was good but the battery wouldnt hold a charge after I cut it off. I would invest the $20 in a multimeter if you dont have one.
Last edited by wumarshall82; Mar 18, 2009 at 08:52 PM.
battery is good, engine turns, but doesnt start at first, depending on how long it sat, second or third try it starts, and if none of those work i usually have to charge the battery and it starts right up
My car wouldn't charge for awhile and it happened out of nowhere. I bought a new 100 amp chrome alternator and electronic voltage regulator from checker. Didn't fix the problem, but then I noticed that the connection points between the harness clip and the regulator weren't exactly tight so I readjusted those to make a good contact and everything was better. It did fix my flickering lights problem however. I've heard that the inexpensive and expensive regulators are different but can anyone say why? My china made one seems to work great....... but if I had a choice, I would drop the extra dough on an american made one if I had the money.
If my battery didnt sit for too long it would have enough juice to turn the engine 1 - 3 times but like you said if it didnt start right up after the 2nd or 3rd time it would be dead. If I jumped the battery it would start right up after I let it charge for a few minutes. It turned out to be the battery. When I got the car started my meter was showing over 14 volts so the alt was doing its job while cranked but once it was off the battery wouldnt hold a good enough charge to crank it back up after sitting.
No battery manufacturer is perfect. Autozone uses the same mfg as Sears (Johnson Controls), so they're decent batteries.
I'm not supporting Autozone, just don't be mad at them because of a crappy battery. As long as they warranty it, they've done what they could for you.
I'm not supporting Autozone, just don't be mad at them because of a crappy battery. As long as they warranty it, they've done what they could for you.
If you get a multimeter you can look and see what exactly is going on. You can check the volts while the car is on and you check it while its off to see if it is losing power. You can also check the amps while everything is off to see if something is draining the battery.
My battery was at 14v while the car was running but once I cut it off it would be around 11.74 and it wouldnt crank.. just turn over once or twice and die. The amps with everything off is 0.05 which I was told would take a long time to drain a battery so it turned out the battery was the problem which I figured but this way I know for sure and there isnt any guessing. My new battery is showing a nice 12.60 while the car is off
My battery was at 14v while the car was running but once I cut it off it would be around 11.74 and it wouldnt crank.. just turn over once or twice and die. The amps with everything off is 0.05 which I was told would take a long time to drain a battery so it turned out the battery was the problem which I figured but this way I know for sure and there isnt any guessing. My new battery is showing a nice 12.60 while the car is off
Last edited by wumarshall82; Mar 19, 2009 at 01:40 PM.
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jwog666
Pipes, Boost & Juice
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Dec 27, 2021 08:09 PM
1966, 1968, 66, classic, details, electronic, flickering, ford, lights, mechanical, mustang, problems, regulator, test, voltage




