Today I decided to bleed my brake lines since the pedal (manual Drum) was squishy and started hitting the floor. I started by bleeding the master cylinder which had air in it, then all four Wheel Cylinders... which also all had air in the lines. I am going to rebuild the brakes tomorrow with all new hardware, adjusters, cylinders and shoes, later I will change the master cylinder and brake lines.
Anyhow, the fluid that came out was almost pure black and a lot thicker than the fresh fluid I had in the bottle (Stayed separate of the fresh DOT 3 in the same bottle!). This stuff was nasty. I don't think any of the prior owners had ever changed it!!! So I would like to flush the lines before putting all new fluid into the system.
How is it done? Is it the same way to bleed the MC in the car with a full fluid change or do I need to do a bench bleed?(don't know what that is!).. Do I flush the lines by opening the bleeders on the brake and keep the fluid full and moving till it is the clear fluid for each wheel or is there a different way?? If I switch to DOT 5 synthetic, is there a different method to remove all the old fluid?
Thanks for any help!

 

No need to switch synthetic. Just like you said, start at the rear right and bleed while keeping the reservoir full of fresh fluid. this will get rid of all the old. Rt rear, Lt rear, Rt front, Lt Front. May want to do it 2 or even 3 times.

 

If it's that thick, I don't know if I'd even bother bleeding it. Who knows how bad it is in the lines? If it were my car, I'd start thinking about replacing the lines, hoses, and wc's.

 

The fluid is dark and heavier than most dirty motor oil, but since I just had the wheel bearings and a differential leak fixed this weekend, I only have enough to do all the hardware (self adjusting and installing), shoes and Wheel Cylinders. I am planning to replace the hoses and the master cylinder in a couple weeks.
I had a similar deal with the fuel system. The tank was rusted out and filled with tons of fuel additives that were like honey. I ended up replacing everything. The tank, sender, fuel pump, carburetor (after 2 rebuilds).. everything except the metal lines. I just flushed them a few times with carb cleaner and blew them out with pressurized air. I was even considering snaking pipe cleaners through them, but they came out clean with the cleaner and air.
I was hoping to do the same thing with the brake system. Replace everything except the hard lines, just flush them and blow them out. I just don't know what to use to flush(Somthing that will clean the old brake fluid), then how to fill an empty brake system from the MC down to the wheel cylinders without getting air into the system/MC as it was this time.
If that did not clean it out, the hard lines would go next... but if they do not need to go, why waste the money when I have so many more projects ahead of me.

 

Ok, I can see that.

If it were me, I'd use lots of carb cleaner (B-12) first, then brakleen, then flush well with DOT 3.

 

I went to NPD and purchased everything (except hard lines.) with money I don't have <grin>, so I m going to try and do it right the first time.. The only thing is that the Master Cylinder I got does not include any type of paperwork. I've read that when installing a new Master Cylinder (not rebuilt), that I must "Bench Bleed" it before installing it in the car and that the instructions would be included with the MC . So does anyone have the paperwork they could post or know of a sight that explains how to "Bench Bleed" a MC?

 

disconnect from each wheel cylinder and master then blow out with compressed air. Next run a bunch of varsol through them to clean.

 

Go to your local Napa and pick up a bench bleeder kit. Should cost something like $7. It's just some plastic fittings, some rubber hose, and a clip.

I find it's easier to do in the car with the brake lines disconnected, but ready to install. Hook the fittings into the m/c, the hose onto the fittings, and clip the hose pieces to the m/c so that they dip into the bottom of the reservoirs. Fill up both reservoirs and pump the pedal slowly until no bubbles come up from the bottoms of the reservoirs. Then disconnect the fittings and hook up the brake lines.

One thought: are you converting to a dual-bowl m/c? If not, you should. It doesn't take much in parts or effort, just some hard lines that need to be bent, and the car will be much safer to drive.

 

The dual bowl upgrade is a very inexpensive upgrade if you are replacing a MC. You just need a 67 MC, small line, and a couple plugs at the distribution block.

 

I already have a bleeder like that! So that helps a lot. I do plan to go to the Dual bowl, but also with the power booster in a while. Right now it has the Jelly-Jar with the brake switch on the Jar (another electrical upgrade) Just so much money going out the door faster than it comes in you know<grin>
I am really wanting to get it safe and get to the body work/paint quick, my son just informed me his senior prom is at a larger auto museum, so he has to have the car in a few months to show off... Upgrades will come after it is back to original condition.