Hey guys check this out

http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...ml?p_vid=18002

 

I would get a new crate engine and put the old 289 in the corner. That way you'll always have it around without any risk to the original motor. That's what I'm doing...my 289 is setting in the corner and the 5.0 is being built.

My reasoning is based on this - My dad's friend worked at a Ford dealership and bought a 66 K code brand new. After a while, he bought a replacement k engine from Ford and put the original in a barn. After several years and changing hands a few times; the man's son wound up with the car. Now the son has a service K engine that he runs and the factory motor waiting for a full restoration.

Advice from others always brings new and useful ideas and it never hurts to ask questions, but the best advice...do what you want. It's your car so make sure that you keep it that way.

 

Yeah, saving the original engine and running a "crate" is a great idea, if you can afford the "crate", and have a dry place to store the "keeper".

 

Very true...storage is the key. You can either go with the crate engine or get a 5.0 out of an explorer and build it up like I did...whatever the budget allows. My engine went way over budget but I wound up with a lot of good parts for my trouble.

 

Where are you getting these prices/parts? Having a hard time finding it. I want to pull the pan and check the rods.

 

Hey guys,
I pulled my oil pan today? I dont have a good shop manual but how do I identify a faulty rod bearing? Do I have to remove all the spark plugs to eliminate a tight rod bearing?
Also , How tight does the timing chain need to be? I would think this one is loose like a goose.

 

just pull the rod caps and visually inspect the bearings. for gods sake, make sure you keep the caps in order. also pull the main caps and check those bearings.

since you've already gotten the heads done - if i was you i'd probably just rebuild the bottom end and reuse your freshly rebuilt heads.

 

I have never done it before so excuse my stupidity. I did pop the caps and 2 and 5's bearings are worn badly. I got the bearings on order. I dont have the experience to determine as to why they failed. I got a silly haynes book that show pics of some failure but mines are not like those. My upper bearings are the ones worn, and they are worn on one side half way up.
The engine was rebuilt 5 years ago, but man only drove a 1000 miles on it since the rebuild. The crank has no scratches or pitting and appears not to be out of round. I think I will just replace the bearings and see how it goes.

Will place some pics tommorow.

 

While you're at it, I'd be safe and replace the oil pump. For the small amount it costs, it's worth the peace of mind since you've already got the bottom end torn apart. The wear on the bearings could be caused by the oil pump not doing it's job (not to mention a ton of other things that could cause the problem).

 

Hey,
As hind site kicks in, after putting the heads and running the engine for the first time I looked at the oil gauge and it read close to high but after idling for 20 min it was close to L. It should have thrown red flags up but I cant stand these types of gauges. I wish they actually gave you a number ( ie 50 psi, or 200 degrees). But either way I think as the oil warmed up i started losing pressure.
When I bought the car, it was obvious there was something up with the motor. When he started the engine it was letting black smoke out. His mechanic told him it was the valve seals leaking. He offered to fix it but since he lived 200 miles away I told him id take care of it.
Either way I suspected it was just a carb/choke issue cause it would clear up. After pulling the heads the pistons and heads were covered in soot. All the plugs were blacken with soot also. While the heads were being refurbished i went ahead and rebuilt the carb. After putting it all back together the smoke did stop, but the knock stayed. Is it possible that soot got into the oil and damaged the bearings? He was using mobile 1 synthetic.