C4 kickdown questions- guru's wanted
cool chart :-)
btw on the subject ... if you have a modulator it should have 0 vacuum at WOT. this way it knows you're flooring it. so if the vacuum line from manifold to C4 is broken (leaking) or the modulator is fried you would have 0 vacuum. I'd check that vacuum line. if it's broken or missing it _should_ cause what you describe (you said somewhen that it feels like it's always in downshift). I wouldn't know for a fact. i'm a manual guy ...
Kalli
btw on the subject ... if you have a modulator it should have 0 vacuum at WOT. this way it knows you're flooring it. so if the vacuum line from manifold to C4 is broken (leaking) or the modulator is fried you would have 0 vacuum. I'd check that vacuum line. if it's broken or missing it _should_ cause what you describe (you said somewhen that it feels like it's always in downshift). I wouldn't know for a fact. i'm a manual guy ...
Kalli
Ok I finally got a chance to get back under the car to put the new cable on.
The kickdown lever is all the way forward in the "kickdown" position I assume. I can pull it back towards the rear of the car but it has spring tension that pulls it right back forward until it stops. It will only move about 1/2 inch to the rear. Is this right?? Or is this my problem?
Oh and I jacked the rear up, spun the tire exactly 2 complete revs and the driveshaft went around 3 3/4 times. I would have thought it should have gone around 6 times for a 3.00:1 number? Did I mess that up?
I used the 3.00:1 from my data plate and used the chart 2+2 put on here. It is shifting right at the appropirate times. 10 mph 1-2 and then 20 mph 2-3 under slow acceleration.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Jeff
The kickdown lever is all the way forward in the "kickdown" position I assume. I can pull it back towards the rear of the car but it has spring tension that pulls it right back forward until it stops. It will only move about 1/2 inch to the rear. Is this right?? Or is this my problem?
Oh and I jacked the rear up, spun the tire exactly 2 complete revs and the driveshaft went around 3 3/4 times. I would have thought it should have gone around 6 times for a 3.00:1 number? Did I mess that up?
I used the 3.00:1 from my data plate and used the chart 2+2 put on here. It is shifting right at the appropirate times. 10 mph 1-2 and then 20 mph 2-3 under slow acceleration.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Jeff
Last edited by cfd2bc; Jan 26, 2010 at 04:36 PM.
I've adjusted the kickdown many times, could do it blindfold.
First things first. Get your helper to hold the gas pedal on the floor. Verify the throttle on the carb is all the way open by disconnecting it from the throttle rod on the carb and pulling the arm to full throttle. Adjust as necessary, and reconnect the rod. Go under the car, and pull the cable forward to the full downshift position. Adjust the cable to attach to the throttle arm at this fully forward wide open throttle position. The idea is that when the pedal is on the floor, the carb should be all the way open, and the kickdown pulled all the way.
First things first. Get your helper to hold the gas pedal on the floor. Verify the throttle on the carb is all the way open by disconnecting it from the throttle rod on the carb and pulling the arm to full throttle. Adjust as necessary, and reconnect the rod. Go under the car, and pull the cable forward to the full downshift position. Adjust the cable to attach to the throttle arm at this fully forward wide open throttle position. The idea is that when the pedal is on the floor, the carb should be all the way open, and the kickdown pulled all the way.
2+2. I guess that is where I am confused. The lever is already all the way forward, like under full throttle, and feels like it's under spring pressure. I can pull it back about 1/2 an inch but it will spring right back forward when I let it go.
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