289 will not start
I need some help but have limited experience and am trying to learn. When I turn the key, i get a click at the starter solenoid, engine will not turn over. i just baught a new one and changed it, same thing. after i turn the key one time and get the click, i then have no lights on in the interior. After checking with my test light for a few minutes, i can turn the key again and get the click. Then i checked the battery, 12v, same thing when i touched the + and - side of the solenoid, 12v. i had this same problem last year and i also changed the voltage regulator. after changing the solenoid a couple of times, the problem went away. Could this a ground problem? If so, where exactly are all of the normal ground spots? Is there any way to tell for sure? thanks for the help, please try to be as detailed as possible with you advise as I need all the help i can get. Jim
Jim, did you replace the cables too? they may be corroded inside the insulation. Check the ground to the engine. Just follow the negative black cable from the battery. Take it off the engine and clean the surfaces and make sure it is tight.
It does indeed sound like a current delivery problem...Electriclty works just like water (expect it also flows up hill ) 
So voltage is water pressure (the height of the column of water sitting above the valve)
current is the size of the water pipe (how much we can flow at given pressure or voltage)
and resistance is beaver dams that slow the flow of water.
So it sounds like there are a few beaver dams inside the battery or along the cables. because of this there is not enough water volume to produce the required work to spin the water wheel (starter motor) even though you have the required pressure (12v).
so
what about the battery its self is it good? It could have internal issues that prevent it from delivering the required amps (aka current / size of water pipe) most battery produce 500 to 1000 amps which is equal to about 16 horse power (12v x 1000 amps is 12,000 watts divide by 720 watts) assuming it actually draws 1000 amps and voltage doesn't sag...which it does not and which it does respectively...so realistic hp is probably 8 hp...well anyhow you get the idea.
Next what about the battery post and clamps? are they clean and tight? Remove them both and clean the post and inside the clamps well with a battery cleaning tool then reattach them and see if that helps.
Next what about the clamps to battery cable? are they one piece or ones that screw on? If its the screw on type there could be corrosion between the cable and clamp causing resistance.
Finally check the ground (-) wire to the engine block is it clean and tight where it meets the block?
Also check the pos (+) cable make sure its clean and tight where it meets the solenoid.
-Gun

So voltage is water pressure (the height of the column of water sitting above the valve)
current is the size of the water pipe (how much we can flow at given pressure or voltage)
and resistance is beaver dams that slow the flow of water.
So it sounds like there are a few beaver dams inside the battery or along the cables. because of this there is not enough water volume to produce the required work to spin the water wheel (starter motor) even though you have the required pressure (12v).
so
what about the battery its self is it good? It could have internal issues that prevent it from delivering the required amps (aka current / size of water pipe) most battery produce 500 to 1000 amps which is equal to about 16 horse power (12v x 1000 amps is 12,000 watts divide by 720 watts) assuming it actually draws 1000 amps and voltage doesn't sag...which it does not and which it does respectively...so realistic hp is probably 8 hp...well anyhow you get the idea.
Next what about the battery post and clamps? are they clean and tight? Remove them both and clean the post and inside the clamps well with a battery cleaning tool then reattach them and see if that helps.
Next what about the clamps to battery cable? are they one piece or ones that screw on? If its the screw on type there could be corrosion between the cable and clamp causing resistance.
Finally check the ground (-) wire to the engine block is it clean and tight where it meets the block?
Also check the pos (+) cable make sure its clean and tight where it meets the solenoid.
-Gun
yeah it was kinda of joke but if your a visual type learner its all true and can be applied anywhere on the car... everyone has seen water so sometimes it helps to use it to explain a simple dc circuit...a lot like the bohr model of the atom its not how it is at all but it works for explanation and experimentation.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



