After changing an untold number of tie rod ends over the last 45 years or so, I have NEVER had to use a pickle fork. I have NEVER had to use a fancy tool as shown by 2+2 and I have NEVER had to heat anything. The BFH has done the job EVERY time.

If you want to buy a fancy tool for the job, the one that 2+2 shows, is the ONLY one I would use. As he accurately points out, it does not damage the joint, the spindle/centerlink or the boot.

Mercedes has an interesting tool for the job that works much like the one that 2+2 shows, except it uses a levered member and jack screw. It operates the same as his in that it pushes the stud through the hole.

Use a BFH on the end of the member that contains the tapered hole and you'll never bother with any other method. Try it, you'll like it!

 

Well, a lotta the work I've done is on show cars, and big ole' whack marks from a BFH are a no-no. It's easy, really, you just remove the cotter pin and nut, and screw the clamp on (that takes maybe 30 seconds) and tighten the screw. 99% of the time, the pin pops loose when you do that, the rest of the time a tap with a brass mallet gets it to pop without leaving a mark.

 

Yep, being a show car INDEED changes your approach!

 

Glad you guys pointed out a BRASS hammer and not just a hammer. Would a dead-blow hammer work just the same.

 

No. The dead-blow is made to not bounce on impact, but it'll still leave some nasty marks.

 

I have to vote for the BFH as well. Doc has it right, pound the tire rod and it will pop right out. I have had worse luck with the "correct tool". If its in there good enough, you can balloon the top of the tie rod your trying to remove.

 

That tool is a Pitman arm puller. I'm sure it will do the trick. So will a BFH, a fork and heat. It's all a matter of preference. I never tried the puller on tie rods because mine came off relatively easily with a fork. I did try using it on on an upper ball joint but the jaw opening is too wide.

If you're looking to save the joints the puller is probably the way to go. If you're replacing them, any of these methods will work.

 

i have new outer tie rods with ball joints, so the pickle fork was an OK tool to use. I was stuck, took all your advice and beat that thing like it owed me money. Popped right out, thanks guys

 

I think that the only reason the brass hammer was mentioned in this thread was because it was on a show car. The brass hammer in conjunction with the press type tool would be the way to keep things looking sanitary.

For anything other than a show car use a BIG F______ HAMMER made out of STEEL! Swing that hammer with wrist action. Don't swing it with a stiff wrist like a farmer driving nails in a chicken coop. To swing a hammer effectively, you use wrist action and actually throw the head of the hammer at what you are hammering. Follow 67Coupes attitude and "beat it like it owes you money."

Also, using the hammer to shrink the tapered hole is NOT the way to destroy the tie rod end, it is the way to SAVE it. Think about it! You are never TOUCHING the tie rod end or the boot. This is the BEST way to save the joint. A pickle fork is in contact with EVERYTHING, so it has the opportunity to DAMAGE everything. The press pushes on the stud, so it has a small chance of damaging the stud. The BFH only touches the center link or the spindle arm. These are the toughest parts under there.

A BFH in the hands of someone who knows how to use it is maybe the most effective tool in your box. I admit, that used incorrectly a BFH has the potential to be the most DAMAGING tool in the box. This is one area where brains MUST be used along with the brawn. Put your brain in gear before reaching for that hammer.

Don't be a Wuss! Put your brain in gear and SWING THAT HAMMER!