Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

yet another ford SB overheating issue :)

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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #11  
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2+2GT
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Originally Posted by tcrote5516
Two ways to tell (unless your a guru).

Stamp on the block above the starter (see from under the vehical)

Under the intake manifold, cant miss it, dead center.
Well, I wouldn't take the manifold off for that. The casting code above the starter will tell you if it's a 289 block, but remember in late 67 it was not uncommon for Ford to use early 302 blocks to build 289 engines.
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #12  
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hoo yah ! can do ! ll take a look to check the block code and see what that says, already started pricing parts for changing out the cooling system.
also will check the head gaskets. if the gaskets are bad what r the signs ?
if there are any..
over all the car runs fairly well... we can get into laggin accelerator response and tuning a 4 bbl carb later
ill post up my starter info later, im just a little OCD when it comes to my projects... lol
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by warlord99
also will check the head gaskets. if the gaskets are bad what r the signs ?
if there are any..
Bad news there. If the gaskets are on backward, the big coolant holes will be at the front, instead of the rear where they belong. This would mean cool coolant doesn't get to the rear of the engine. If the parts list doesn't fix it, you'll have to pull the heads to find out.

Old Apr 25, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #14  
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I had a similar problem with a '69 351W and it turned out to be the radiator cap. Mine would start overflowing after just a few minutes though. The old spring wouldn't hold back the pressure after the water temp climbed about 140.
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #15  
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pull the heads...yeay ! no not really. LOL well i do believe i need a new radiator, i have 2 old ones, maybe originals maybe repros...anyway both are pretty scaled up and need a flush descale pretty bad. no leaking from the water pump so ill put that in the probably good category. heads area real unknown tho, im just set up to pull them, might have to shop them out unless anyone lives near jax fl that could give me a hand J/K let you all know more when i get back to her... thank you all
Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #16  
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sorry just NOT set up to pull my heads... apoplgize for the mistype
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 07:28 AM
  #17  
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The first step in troubleshooting any cooling problem is a pressure test. Most any radiator shop will do this for free and it only takes five minutes. Once you know the system is tight, then you go from there.
Old May 2, 2010 | 07:42 AM
  #18  
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good news ! its not the head gasket, took it in and had it looked at, plus some other work done... my mechanic, tony, just sugessted that i beef up
the cooling system, new fan, shroud, thermostat, ect... also we fixed the timing and put in some rad cleaner and flush to help clean out the cooling system from where it had been sitting.

ive been putting in new gauges as well since my dash guages dont work
oil pressure and temp are done, just need to finish the tach. install.
he has confirmed that it is a 302 2v, he laughed and said i should build it into a boss 302...not sure what that means but ok. old girl runs much better now
thanks again for all the good info.
Old May 2, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #19  
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ok.... how did he check to see if its a 302? Im sorry but i just dont trust people when it comes to stuff like that... and how did he rule out head gaskets?
Old May 2, 2010 | 08:25 AM
  #20  
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lol, hope this makes sense, its a quote from the write up. " checked cooling system, found no water in exhaust or exhaust in coolant. " also found block stamps that tell its a 302. however, i have read that some 289s were built in 302 blocks ? not sure but until i actually pull the intake to change the gasket and look there ill probaby not know for sure.
ty



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