For those who didn't see the first thread. I bought this car last week from fellow member WarrenW.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...ake-parts.html
I fixed the brakes and ordered new tires. Yesterday took the wife and boy out to dinner with the in-laws and we had starting issues trying to come home. Had to bump start it after disconnecting the stater solenoid cause the car acted like it had a bad battery but continued to try and start after the key was removed from the ignition.
Got up this morning and was doing some searching on the issue and looked at Warrens past posts. Found these.....
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...just-died.html

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-charging.html

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...tery-dies.html

Well to say the least he never did fix his wiring/charging issues and he never told me about them. So it looks like I'm going to be sending some quality time tracing/checking wires. Someone posted in one of the previous links that the guy that sold Warren this car just threw the wiring in to sell it and may have crossed some wires somewhere. I think he's right cause I had already found out that the lighting part was going to need some work.

I hate people who lie and omission to information is the same as lying. shame on you Warren.

Sorry just venting.

Anyone with wiring diagram links please post cause the ones I got kinda suck

 

This is caused by a faulty solenoid. There is no way to incorrectly wire the car so that sometimes it works, and sometimes it does this.

What diagram do you have now? The one in the back of the Factory Service Manual is perfectly good in this regard, and you must have that.

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/wiring/1966/66ignit.jpg

Checking to see whether the voltage regulator or alternator are functioning is easy. Put your voltmeter on the car, and do full-field test. If the voltmeter shows 14V+, the alternator is OK.

 

The car started fine till last night, started it at the restaurant and drove it to the in-laws to drop off the brother-in-law. Shut it off and went to restart it almost immediately but with the headlights still on. Lights went dim and in attempted to crank but acted like the battery was dead. I immediately shut off the lights and removed the key and when to look under the hood. (cranking a car on a dead battery = bad) while opening the hood I heard the starter still attempting (be it very slowly) to start the car (remember the key are in my hand not the car) quickly grabbed a wrench and disconnected the battery. We determined that it was a stuck solenoid and decided to bump it to get it home. I believe the short in the parking lights(grounded wire somewhere) caused the afore mentioned dead battery and led the PO to mess with other systems. I've already found a cut and spliced wire that came off the alt to the fuse block and was spliced to the main fuse wire.

Only ones off the internet and the cheap hanes manual. The Factory manual has been purchased but hasn't arrived yet. (I've only had the car a week.)

Plan on doing these this morning.

 

Over the years i learned cars don't lie people do or just don't know.As long as its a simple fix be happy i have bought cars and in the end had to spent more then its worth to fix it.

 

When it comes to wiring gremlins, you are almost always going to come out ahead just starting from scratch... Replace everything with a Painless or similar kit. Save your sanity and probably a lot of time.

 

Collection of useful information for 66 Mustangs


1966 FACTORY MANUAL ONLINE:
http://www.scribd.com/people/documen...97-edze?page=1

GREAT COLLECTION OF INFORMATION ON MODIFICATIONS AND EVERYTHING ABOUT MUSTANGS:
http://mustangtechlinks.webs.com/


ELECTRICAL SCHEMATICS & INFORMATION:

Wire routing:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/wiring1966.htm

Intrior gauges, wipers and lighting:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...6/66inter1.jpg
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...66/66inter.jpg

Instrument gauge panel:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...66/66instr.jpg

Ignition, starting and charging:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...66/66ignit.jpg

Exterior lighting, turn signals and horn:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...6/66exter1.jpg
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...66/66exter.jpg

Accesories:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...6/66acces1.jpg
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...66/66acces.jpg

Original Stereo wiring:
http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...6/66stereo.jpg


TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION:

Good information and troubleshooting:
http://thecareandfeedingofponies.blo...1_archive.html

 

I would pick up a spare solenoid, as 2+2GT mentioned a bad solenoid can do this on/off. I had a new one do it to me, worked fine for a period and then the dreaded key out continues to crank. I replaced the ign. switch first and still had the cont. start. Swapped out the new solenoid for a BWD/Standard ign. solenoid and problem fixed.

It does sound like you've got wiring issues to address but as mentioned wiring either works or not, you can have loose wires that may be grounding intermittently but switches can work/not intermittently more often. I'd have a spare solenoid handy, not that $ @~$10.

Ron above has overloaded you with info!!
Jon

 

It has a painless kit in it but I can't get the manual to come up off their site. Anyone have this saved? After doing to tracing I deterimed that have a short somewhere in the front headlight/parking/turn signal harness.

 

That explains a lot. I have never been a fan, not because of Painless but more like the "do it yourself project kit" aspect of their product. Installer skill is a big factor.

The OEM style wiring from Alloy Metal is completely plug-and-play, identical to the original wiring. You'd have to work really hard to screw that up.

 

Car now starts but (new Solenoid) def running off the battery. Car's still not charging so Warren never fixed it and just let me deal with it.