rally pac
jgstang65:
i have original rpm gauge and it does not work since I use ignition boxes. I once got expensive module that will cause to pull energy from ignition wire to key (through rpkm gauge), but I think i blew it. Sick of it and going to put after market gauges into it as well.
I can see you use sport comps. can I ask what size and what modifications (apart from cabling) you had to do to pack them in there?
i have original rpm gauge and it does not work since I use ignition boxes. I once got expensive module that will cause to pull energy from ignition wire to key (through rpkm gauge), but I think i blew it. Sick of it and going to put after market gauges into it as well.
I can see you use sport comps. can I ask what size and what modifications (apart from cabling) you had to do to pack them in there?
pertronix and no box: yes you can. not a problem. I did that originally without the box.
the way the rally pacs work is that they are in series with the coil+ and ignition key. no matter if you use points or pertronix, the spark created causes the voltage on coil+ to change slightly. The rally pac picks up on this.
if you use an ignition box with it (like me, or MSD or anything else), then the setup changes in such a way that _nothing_ is connected to coil+ or coil- apart from the box. The box gets the impulses and handles the coil. Usually the coil+ will then run at 400V (not 12V). if you'd hook up anything using 12V there you end up with toast
Hope that makes it clear. I ran the pertronix II billet distributor without added ignition box (just like you do) and aftermarket rallypac (from sacramento-mustang) no problem. and the same should be valid for the original rally pac since it works the same way.
A "normal" post 1980 (parallel) style will pick it up from coil- (on/off) or from tach trigger in box. the rally pac (series style tach) is waaay different
ohh and before you ask: the manual (wiring) talks about the resistor wire (can't remember if it suggested with or without). For me it worked with and without resistor wire
the way the rally pacs work is that they are in series with the coil+ and ignition key. no matter if you use points or pertronix, the spark created causes the voltage on coil+ to change slightly. The rally pac picks up on this.
if you use an ignition box with it (like me, or MSD or anything else), then the setup changes in such a way that _nothing_ is connected to coil+ or coil- apart from the box. The box gets the impulses and handles the coil. Usually the coil+ will then run at 400V (not 12V). if you'd hook up anything using 12V there you end up with toast
Hope that makes it clear. I ran the pertronix II billet distributor without added ignition box (just like you do) and aftermarket rallypac (from sacramento-mustang) no problem. and the same should be valid for the original rally pac since it works the same way.
A "normal" post 1980 (parallel) style will pick it up from coil- (on/off) or from tach trigger in box. the rally pac (series style tach) is waaay different
ohh and before you ask: the manual (wiring) talks about the resistor wire (can't remember if it suggested with or without). For me it worked with and without resistor wire
Last edited by kalli; Aug 5, 2010 at 08:33 AM.
pertronix and no box: yes you can. not a problem. I did that originally without the box.
the way the rally pacs work is that they are in series with the coil+ and ignition key. no matter if you use points or pertronix, the spark created causes the voltage on coil+ to change slightly. The rally pac picks up on this.
if you use an ignition box with it (like me, or MSD or anything else), then the setup changes in such a way that _nothing_ is connected to coil+ or coil- apart from the box. The box gets the impulses and handles the coil. Usually the coil+ will then run at 400V (not 12V). if you'd hook up anything using 12V there you end up with toast
Hope that makes it clear. I ran the pertronix II billet distributor without added ignition box (just like you do) and aftermarket rallypac (from sacramento-mustang) no problem. and the same should be valid for the original rally pac since it works the same way.
A "normal" post 1980 (parallel) style will pick it up from coil- (on/off) or from tach trigger in box. the rally pac (series style tach) is waaay different
ohh and before you ask: the manual (wiring) talks about the resistor wire (can't remember if it suggested with or without). For me it worked with and without resistor wire
the way the rally pacs work is that they are in series with the coil+ and ignition key. no matter if you use points or pertronix, the spark created causes the voltage on coil+ to change slightly. The rally pac picks up on this.
if you use an ignition box with it (like me, or MSD or anything else), then the setup changes in such a way that _nothing_ is connected to coil+ or coil- apart from the box. The box gets the impulses and handles the coil. Usually the coil+ will then run at 400V (not 12V). if you'd hook up anything using 12V there you end up with toast
Hope that makes it clear. I ran the pertronix II billet distributor without added ignition box (just like you do) and aftermarket rallypac (from sacramento-mustang) no problem. and the same should be valid for the original rally pac since it works the same way.
A "normal" post 1980 (parallel) style will pick it up from coil- (on/off) or from tach trigger in box. the rally pac (series style tach) is waaay different
ohh and before you ask: the manual (wiring) talks about the resistor wire (can't remember if it suggested with or without). For me it worked with and without resistor wire
tx65coupe: higher voltage on the primary will cause higher output on the secondary (spark). That's one of the ideas of an ignition box.
plainsman1876: if you mean my car that's an honour. I never expected one to comment on my car where everyone has one :-) thanks :-)
plainsman1876: if you mean my car that's an honour. I never expected one to comment on my car where everyone has one :-) thanks :-)
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