Then get Wilwood GT series rotors or something similar. They're high grade alloy with thick castings.

And my point is that you do not NEED large rotors. You just think you do, because there's a common misconception that big brakes are always needed. Think about it, if it's a track only car and you run a race compound that operates well out to 1,300* F, do you REALLY think you'll ever get your rotors that hot? To where the rotor is glowing brightly? Pad fade in race compounds begins to occur AFTER that.

Rotor diameter is more about generating torque from increased leverage due to a larger radius, than heat control. You get more heat control from THICKNESS due to better ventilation. You just have more material in a larger rotor so they generally run cooler(more area to absorb and dissipate heat). You're going to be better off running the smallest rotor you can that gives needed leverage from the proper radius, and keeps pad temps up in the optimal range with an aggressive pad compound...but without having them so small that they overheat. You'll generate generate more braking torque that way, and keep the overall mass of the brakes down AND have cheaper replacement costs. The pad will help you stop better than rotor diameter will, and good pads need heat to work ideally.

Yes, brake fade is a safety issue. But in a car as light as yours with the limited power it will have, there's no way you'll EVER get an 11.75 x 1.25 rotor hot enough to fade the brakes EVER if you run the right pad. You'd need 1,000 more lbs and twice the power.

Yes, Grand Am and late models run larger brakes....why? Because they are heavier cars, with more power, going faster, with larger tires that have more grip, and more aggressive drivers.

Also realize that a lot of brake fade people experience, has nothing to do with the rotor or the pad. They're quite frequently boiling fluid off, because they're not using fluid that can resist the temps they're seeing.

If you want to spend extra money on something that's not needed, that's your choice. But depending on the pad compounds you use, and their Cf/temp curves you may end up never running them in the optimal temperature range. And your maintenance costs will be higher. I've seen plenty of guys at the tracks with large brake setups that can't ever figure out why guys with smaller brake setups are consistently out braking them, sometimes in heavier cars. I'm just trying to keep you from wasting money on something that you think you need, when you really don't. Save it and use it somewhere else to help you get around the track faster.

Whatever you go with, stay away from cross drilled rotors though. Either get a flat face or a slotted face.