Just rebuild them. Personally, I run Wilwoods...affordable, high quality, highly effective. Replacement parts are cheap and easy to get. I have hundreds of thousands of miles on mine, and I've only replaced the discs a few times, pads about 2x as often as discs, and rebuilt the calipers once just recently. And that's running highly aggressive high temp pads.

 

I highly recommend factory style 4 piston KH brakes for street applications.

Possible exceptions:
wanna show off flashy era incorrect break the bank calipers to friends.
your name is speed racer.

 

Like that!! Show if your calipers to friends.

Same pertains to the rear Disc Brakes. If you have a High Dollar area show car--Rear Disc,

If a Driver, Rear Drum everytime. Why pay $500.00 for rear Disc to obtain 5% gain in Braking, just doesn't make any logic?/

Dan @ Chockostang

 

I have autocrossed my stock 66 discs, without the slightest problem. Only way to work your brakes harder than that is actual track racing.

 

I dont have 2 or 4 piston calipers, it's a single floating piston caliper. I'm not sure where they came from because the previous owner is the one that put it on there

 

Rear discs are needed in certain performance applications. It's all about heat control. If drums work fine, they work fine. But upgrading to high performance aftermarket drum setups(like Cobra Automotive stuff etc) gets as expensive as good disc brake setups. They work almost as well, but are intended for racing classes where you have to run factory configuration brakes....which means drums.

Most street cars are fine with rear drums, though they can be an issue in areas that get a lot of rain/moisture in the winter.

And just fyi, you get a HELL of a lot more than a 5% braking increase between drum and disc. Especially depending on the drum and disc setups you're comparing. I'm going to be putting Wilwoods on the rear of my Mustang here soon, and those with E pads vs stock rear drums is probably a 50-100% braking increase "cold" at least(for the same line pressure), and the dics will work at temps far beyond what the drums could ever handle. In a case like that you're comparing an overheated drum brake shoe that's fading and coming apart to a pad that's reaching ideal operating temp....so your braking increase in a situation like that is several hundred % more, or perhaps over 1,000% more braking.

It just depends on what you're comparing.