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Master Cylinder Push Rod
So how do walk into the parts store and say, 'I want the 7/8" bore version of this 1 incher'?
I recently replaced my leaky master cylinder with a stock manual one and I'm not happy with it. Too firm and not enough braking power.
Is there a cross reference year, make, model, engine, etc. that the guy behind the counter will understand, if you know what I mean?
I recently replaced my leaky master cylinder with a stock manual one and I'm not happy with it. Too firm and not enough braking power.
Is there a cross reference year, make, model, engine, etc. that the guy behind the counter will understand, if you know what I mean?
Last edited by urban_cowboy; Jun 17, 2011 at 10:07 AM.
I didn't realize that the stock displacement ratio was insufficient when I made my post.
I do not pretend to understand all the issues involved, but from what I have heard, it is an issue of matching fluid volume for the particular caliper or drum used. A bigger bore in the MC moves more fluid. This is a good thing if you are running a huge caliper with big pistons. Sometimes you don't know until you try. I thought my Wilwood 4 piston calipers would need more volume, but they did not really need anymore than the Granada calipers.
I do not pretend to understand all the issues involved, but from what I have heard, it is an issue of matching fluid volume for the particular caliper or drum used. A bigger bore in the MC moves more fluid. This is a good thing if you are running a huge caliper with big pistons. Sometimes you don't know until you try. I thought my Wilwood 4 piston calipers would need more volume, but they did not really need anymore than the Granada calipers.
Certainly when changing the volume of the calipers, this can mean that changing the volume of the m/c is a good idea, and it can be done to the benefit of personal preference within reason.
IDK, I was just trying to give the "safe answer" assuming that a proper stock m/c would work right with the right stock brakes, (and there are tons of factory options for Mustangs).... I always thought that stock pedals felt pretty good for the most part, and this is what I have gauged my mix and match installs against.
Jim's manual Mustang brakes (with Wilwood fronts and SBBC rears) like yours have a long steady stroke that I liked once I got used to it, my Lincoln with power drum brakes has a pedal that is a bit harder than it was stock, still great once I got used to it. IMO so long as the brakes will lock before the pedal hits the floor, and the pedal is not too damn hard everything is cool.
I think the o/p's issues were a result of the wrong pushrod more than the wrong diameter cylinder.
Good discussion;
Other points to consider include things like bigger wheels, wider tires, drum to disk conversions, etc..
All these conspire to change the stock parts applicability to a no longer stock configuration.
My brakes will not lock up at all, not that I want flat spots on my tires mind you. But I would like to stop quicker than I do now. The smaller piston may give me more psi at the sacrifice of needing a longer stroke, but I think I have plenty of that to spare.
Other points to consider include things like bigger wheels, wider tires, drum to disk conversions, etc..
All these conspire to change the stock parts applicability to a no longer stock configuration.
My brakes will not lock up at all, not that I want flat spots on my tires mind you. But I would like to stop quicker than I do now. The smaller piston may give me more psi at the sacrifice of needing a longer stroke, but I think I have plenty of that to spare.
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