Lower control Arms?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 334
From: Wisconsin
Lower control Arms?
Hi,
Looking at saving some $$ and wanted to tackle this myself. I am looking at replacing my lower control arms and they look to be unbolt and re-bolt. Is there anything I need to worry about for saftey reasoning like something springing into my face? Just want to be safe when attempting this replacement.
Thanks, Adam
Looking at saving some $$ and wanted to tackle this myself. I am looking at replacing my lower control arms and they look to be unbolt and re-bolt. Is there anything I need to worry about for saftey reasoning like something springing into my face? Just want to be safe when attempting this replacement.
Thanks, Adam
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
Yes, there is definitely a need for caution. The coil spring needs to be compressed in order to do the job. There are a couple ways to do this while replacing the LCA.
1) Use a proper coil spring compressor, one that sits inside the spring and grips the bottom and top of the spring. Macpherson strut compressors will not work and will be extremely unsafe if you try to use them. Even the proper tool should be used with extreme caution.
2) Lower the car to the ground. Find a 2x4 approx 6-8" long. Place it in between the UCA and the frame rail and jack that side of the car up until the UCA rests on the 2x4 and the tire is off the ground. Now you can remove anything under the UCA.
When trying to remove the lower ball joint from the spindle, loosen the castle nut and leave it threaded on at the end of the ball joint threads. Grab two big hammers. If one of them is a sledge, all the better, but both need to be steel rather than brass or plastic. Put the heaviest hammer on one side of the spindle where the ball joint goes through it. Take the other and whack the opposite side of the spindle as hard as you can. Don't hold back. It may take a couple tries, but ball joint will eventually pop out of the taper in the spindle, at which point you can remove the castle nut and unbolt the LCA from the frame rail.
1) Use a proper coil spring compressor, one that sits inside the spring and grips the bottom and top of the spring. Macpherson strut compressors will not work and will be extremely unsafe if you try to use them. Even the proper tool should be used with extreme caution.
2) Lower the car to the ground. Find a 2x4 approx 6-8" long. Place it in between the UCA and the frame rail and jack that side of the car up until the UCA rests on the 2x4 and the tire is off the ground. Now you can remove anything under the UCA.
When trying to remove the lower ball joint from the spindle, loosen the castle nut and leave it threaded on at the end of the ball joint threads. Grab two big hammers. If one of them is a sledge, all the better, but both need to be steel rather than brass or plastic. Put the heaviest hammer on one side of the spindle where the ball joint goes through it. Take the other and whack the opposite side of the spindle as hard as you can. Don't hold back. It may take a couple tries, but ball joint will eventually pop out of the taper in the spindle, at which point you can remove the castle nut and unbolt the LCA from the frame rail.
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
If you put a wood block between the upper arm and frame when jacking the car, you will be good to go. This is actually in the Ford manual. Remove and install the sway bar link with the car on the ground. Torque the bolt at the inner end of the lower arm with the car on the ground.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
EDIT: pic above is excellent, was posting at the same time. I didn't even look in my manual to find this, great tip.
I swapped my LCA out recently w/o removing the springs. I raised the left front just enough to get my shortest jack stand under the front frame and remove the tire, I then supported the drum/rotor with my hyd. jack so that I could get to the spindle/LCA balljoint. The issue with removing the LCA is that the spindle will only be attached at the top when you remove the LCA so the spindle/hub could rotate outwards, possibly allowing the hub to drop and release the spring, that's why I support the car and the hub.
I would remove the strut rod nuts first from underneath, the bolts are splined so don't try to turn them, just hold them with your wrench/socket while you remove the nuts. Once the nuts are off you'll need to tap up on the strut rod at the LCA to get them to pop free with the bolts still in the arm (splined). Also unhood the swaybar bushings.
I used a rental tool to get the ball joints free, most every parts store rents the kits and gives a full refund when you return them:
The ones shaped like and upside down U work well on the bj, remove the nut, tighten down the puller, tap the spindle with a ball peen hammer, tighten another 1/4 turn if you can, tap, repeat. You will get a 'POP' and it'll be loose with no damage to spindle. Be prepared for when it pops loose, the sound will surprise you but it'll only move a 1/4" and be free. Then remove the chasis mount bolt and pry or tap down on the LCA, it's a tight fit on that end but slips out. I'd make not or mark your eccentric on the frame mount so you can put it back in close to where it was until you get to the alignment shop. Here's a pic of that end where the eccentric (egg shaped metal) normally is, I've replaced mine with a locked version:
This is with the brakes off so you can see the LCA and bj bolt:
If you do decide to remove the spring use an inner spring compressor like this which you can also rent for free:
My biggest tip is to get good LCA's, don't get the cheap repops, get MOOG or McQuay Norris. Virginia Classic sells the Moog LCA for $50ea. which is cheaper than some of the repops.
Jon
I swapped my LCA out recently w/o removing the springs. I raised the left front just enough to get my shortest jack stand under the front frame and remove the tire, I then supported the drum/rotor with my hyd. jack so that I could get to the spindle/LCA balljoint. The issue with removing the LCA is that the spindle will only be attached at the top when you remove the LCA so the spindle/hub could rotate outwards, possibly allowing the hub to drop and release the spring, that's why I support the car and the hub.
I would remove the strut rod nuts first from underneath, the bolts are splined so don't try to turn them, just hold them with your wrench/socket while you remove the nuts. Once the nuts are off you'll need to tap up on the strut rod at the LCA to get them to pop free with the bolts still in the arm (splined). Also unhood the swaybar bushings.
I used a rental tool to get the ball joints free, most every parts store rents the kits and gives a full refund when you return them:
The ones shaped like and upside down U work well on the bj, remove the nut, tighten down the puller, tap the spindle with a ball peen hammer, tighten another 1/4 turn if you can, tap, repeat. You will get a 'POP' and it'll be loose with no damage to spindle. Be prepared for when it pops loose, the sound will surprise you but it'll only move a 1/4" and be free. Then remove the chasis mount bolt and pry or tap down on the LCA, it's a tight fit on that end but slips out. I'd make not or mark your eccentric on the frame mount so you can put it back in close to where it was until you get to the alignment shop. Here's a pic of that end where the eccentric (egg shaped metal) normally is, I've replaced mine with a locked version:
This is with the brakes off so you can see the LCA and bj bolt:
If you do decide to remove the spring use an inner spring compressor like this which you can also rent for free:
My biggest tip is to get good LCA's, don't get the cheap repops, get MOOG or McQuay Norris. Virginia Classic sells the Moog LCA for $50ea. which is cheaper than some of the repops.
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; Aug 21, 2011 at 10:49 AM.
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