My car was originally Black/Black. So many layers of paint (removing) and so many changes, I am getting confused. I want to go with a bumble-Bee Yellow for the exterior (Too hot for black). Does the interior of the door get painted Black? I believe so, with the color coming from the padded parts.
If so, where does the interior color end? The weather-stripping or the door skin? Or is it painted the same as the exterior (can't imagine so, just don't think it would look right.)
Is there a certain paint that should be used on the interior? When I got my car, the interior paint was peeling off in huge chunks. I cleaned it up and touched up the black/bare metal with an enamel from a rattle can. Today while prepping it, it is peeling off in sheets again. I had removed all the loose, non-original paint and then cleaned it with Metal-ready, rinsing very well. But the areas I had done are just peeing/flakeing off so easy. Can use a plastic putty knife to remove it all.
Thanks for any help!
Ed

 

if its a steel part, with that much paint on it the best way to remove it might be sandblasting or wire wheeling. i prefer wire wheels only because they work pretty fast and less mess. You have so many layers of paint the only way to do it right is to completely strip it.
check some web sites, such as mustangs unlimited. They sell rattle cans of interior color just for that application
as to your question on where the color ends and begins, i'll let someone else field that

-kirk

 

I don't think you should use a wire wheel or sandblast the interior metal of the door since it is textured. Sanding or other aggressive paint removal would also smooth out/remove the texture that is punched into the metal (as will several layers of paint))
Those paints are good for scratch cover, over the original paint job, but since I am doing a chemical peel, I am left with bare metal. Don't want to go with sealer, primer, paint, clear-coat since it would fill in all the texture. I would like to use something that not only would stick to the bare metal, but cover in very few coats to preserve the look/feel that was punched into the metal on the (interior) doors.
Thanks for the reply.

 

spray it with a black epoxy which will be your primer/sealer etc then your color coat....

 

Well you got it right with the paint stripper on the inside panels, this will leave you with "fresh" texture.

For the inside, I would simply wash really well, seal with a good but thin coat of 2K sealer, and paint with a good activated enamel or even a base clear process.

If you elect for a base clear, remember the base will be VERY thin is sprayed right, and a careful coat of clear (a "minimum" coat for good coverage) wont cost you much if any detail beyond stock.

On Jim's car we simply stripped the whole panel at one time, (using "regular" "Aircraft Remover", NOT the "Low Odor" stuff because it sucks) sealed and shot enamel, no problem with the texture.

The factory paint (and any spray paint on top of it) will succumb QUICKLY to the stripper, the stock interior paint wasn't that good.

 

yeah sorry, i was thinking of the outside when i said to wire wheel it. definitely don't wire wheel the textured portion (or a random tidbit, dont wirewheel the pot metal bits around the head and tail lights... they dont take it well)

-kirk

 

Somebody probably used Armor All on the old paint. You'll want to strip all that mess off, do about a 6" square at a time, scrape with plastic scraper, and do the final clean with fine Scotchbrite and lacquer thinner. Lightly prime, and a couple of quick thin coats of interior color will finish it, and give you good "grain".

I have seen Mustangs with the inside of the doors painted the exterior color. If I said it looked stupid, I would be kind.

The factory color transition was hidden by the weatherstrip.

 

Thanks Everyone! Great help!
It is like there is something on the doors, but I had cleaned them with metal ready, so I was sure that any oily substances had been cleaned off. The inside edges of the doors are getting a chemical peel, the interior itself were cleaned up in about 15 minutes using dremel tool with a brass wire cup. The new paint just peeled off easier than using a sponge on a muddy surface. Came off in chunks. The original paint is still there, scuffed slightly by the brush. I am going to clean it 3-4 time with good rinsing each time before I hit it with a top coat of the original color again.
As for the paint edges, I had pretty much decided to go to the weather strip as you have suggested. I thought it would look best that way. My only concern is that the door edges (after the weatherstrip) have the texture on the metal as well. Still it would be the easiest way to tape it off and would look a lot more professional in the end. I just needed to hear someone else tell me to make this decision.


Again, Thanks Everyone!!