which Master Cylinder?
I plan on getting the Wilwoods 140-11072-DR
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...0Brake%20Front.
Im not very knowledgeable about MC's can some one give me their opinion as to what bore size i should be looking into?
Thanks
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...0Brake%20Front.
Im not very knowledgeable about MC's can some one give me their opinion as to what bore size i should be looking into?
Thanks
1, don't get the cross drilled, save money and get better brakes by getting the same kit with a standard flat face GT vane rotor. Or slotted.
This is from Wilwood themselves...
Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application?
A:
PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing.
So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
2, something like a 1-1/16 tandem, or if you want a softer pedal like 1" or 15/16 or something. I have the 1-1/16 right now and the pedal effort is moderate, and easy when the brakes heat up. With a smaller bore I'd have to press the pedal down farther(plenty of room left) and I'd get a softer pedal so it'd feel more like a soft power braked car.
This is from Wilwood themselves...
Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application?
A:
PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing.
So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
2, something like a 1-1/16 tandem, or if you want a softer pedal like 1" or 15/16 or something. I have the 1-1/16 right now and the pedal effort is moderate, and easy when the brakes heat up. With a smaller bore I'd have to press the pedal down farther(plenty of room left) and I'd get a softer pedal so it'd feel more like a soft power braked car.
good info. didn't know that. make sure to check the datasheet for wheel clearance. as for master cylinder ... if I'd go with one of their products I really would simply just ask them. Something I don't really like to 'guess' with are brakes.
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