It's between the front of the crank, and the lower timing gear.



No, it's sandwiched, and stays in place via a roll pin in the lower gear.

Everybody had a K code crank, kind-of. The K code used a production crank, specially selected for higher nodularity and strength. There's supposed to be a mark from a Brinell hardness tester on them, but I've never seen the mark.

Here's an article on building the 289 High Performance:
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar...e/viewall.html
Even if you're not doing the upgrades (I've never seen the need for the expensive machining for the 1-pc seal, and their choice of carb spacer gaskets was poor) it's a very good, well illustrated piece.

One thing they don't mention is the 289 (and 302) exhaust ports suck. Big time. Here's an article on fixing that problem. Inexpensive, and well worth a weekend in the garage.
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching

It secures in a clip on the front of the LH fresh air vent, between the firewall and vent. If you didn't know it was there, you'd never find it.



You have e flashers now. The 66 harness did that for you. The odd plug you're looking at is almost certainly the e flasher plug. You'll need a switch. Lucky for you, they are reproduced now. Coupla years ago, you'd have had to pay over $100 for one. I keep forgetting the later style harness, the one reproduced, was integral. Early 66 had add-on e flasher, and no such plug.



The heater plug IIRC has a triple and one single connector.



Accessory by definition is switched with the ignition key.

That is definitely NOT where you connect the fogs. The foglight connection was taped to the harness near the wiper motor. It's a heavy gray wire with a black stripe, unique that it ends with an eye terminal, not a plug. If your harness lacks this, that's OK, the fog light wiring harness comes with this pigtail. Ford spliced the gray wire to the heavy power feed in the main harness. The kit wire connects to it with a Scotchlock, supplied with the kit. That's essentially what Ford did, although their connector was moulded. There is an automatic circuit breaker in the kit, Ford screwed (or clipped, the guys on the line figured out the clip was quicker than drilling a hole) to the right side of the pedal support.



You should get the under-dash harness if you are adding fog lights. The correct harness is plug-in, and as per OEM has a jumper for the taillights, which come on when to turn on the fog lights.



That's pretty typical. Scavengers, and thieves, usually cut the Pac wires. Which is really sad, because they were plugged in. All they really had to do was pull on it, and they'd unplug, intact.

No problem. These are so commonly hacked that shops such as Glazier/Nolan carry repair kits. You'll end up with two inline splices (on the tach wires), but they'll be hidden in the harness tape. I prefer to solder the wires, and cover the repair with shrinktube. Never use electrical tape, use harness tape. If you've made this mistake in the past, you already know why, the gooey mess that results is unforgettable.



You'll also need the under-dash harness. Scavengers leave this in the junkyard, later they can't connect to the car and have to start cutting.



Sure- The factory service manual illustrates the routing of the wires, pictorially. But the schematic, above, is pretty clear.

 

thank you.........

i went through all the info you gave me.................

 

I found this number on the engine block..

 

I'm putting this all back together.

I have all the Rally Pac wiring repaired.

Where does the Tack Signal wire connect to?Should i run a wire to the negative side of the coil?

 

I believe i found it!
A pink wire that is completely covered in a black cloth type sheath.There is no wire connected to the negative side of the coil so the factory Rally Tach must get it's signal somewhere else.