Pickles_99

I just bought a 66' 289 2V that had been sitting in a garage the last 16 years. I got it running and it runs surprisingly well for sitting that long. From what I can tell, it's an original engine (still has tag). I have taken a few shorts trips into town with it (<5 miles) and have run it in driveway while tuning it. Here is the issue. . .went to start it the other night and it was dead, just clicking from solenoid, but there was enough juice to power lights, etc. Replaced solenoid and alternator, replaced some old wiring connections, put in new battery. Started right up, took for a short drive, everything functioning properly. Went to start it the next day, dead again, only clicking at solenoid. So my guess is I have a short somewhere or something is still "on" even after the car is off. I do not have a volt meter, so have not tested anything. One weird thing. . .I can jump the car when it's cold with no problem, immediately turns over. I'll take it for a quick drive and it warms up, then I shut it down and when I try to immediately restart, only clicking at solenoid. Hook the jumpers up again and can't get it started. . .solenoid won't even click and jumper cables begin to get hot and smoke? Any idea why that would be?

gjz30075

Certainly sounds like you still have some bad/corroded connections. Check the ground that runs from the solenoid to the engine block. And the ground that runs from the back of the rh head to the firewall.

Iskwezm

yeah, sounds like a grounding issue

Pickles_99

Thanks guys. Both the solenoid to engine block and firewall grounds look good. That said, the firewall ground is not located where I have seen it despicted in wiring diagrams/pics. As it is currently set up on my car, the firewall ground wire is coming off the driver's side top rear of the block to a screw/bolt on the driver's side firewall. The diagrams I have looked at show the ground being on the passenger side firewall, next to the heater, coming off the top rear of the block, passenger side. I thought it wouldn't matter where the ground actually was, as long as it was a "good" ground. I'll move it tonight when I get home and see what happens.

Iskwezm

you could always add another ground

JMD

As far as cables go, looking good and being good are two different things. Very often these cables will get loose and/or corroded in the terminal to cable attachment. Look close there, and give the cables a tug next time the car won't turn over.

Also make sure the solenoid has a good ground, it won't work right if the attachment bolts to the fenderwell are loose, corroded, etc.

Pickles_99

OK, will go over all ground cables and most likely replace all of them to be safe. I moved the firewall to engine block ground to the correct place last night, still having same issue. I was looking over wiring diagrams and wondering. . .should I have a ground wire coming off the starter? And if so, grounded to where? Right now I only have the wire off the solenoid going to the starter. This diagram looks like their is a ground coming off the starter: http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/wiring/1966/66ignit.jpg

jlg2002

Hi Pickles, some good advice here so far:
The starter grounds through the engine block so no you don't have a cable there. Reading thru your post, there are a few things you need to look at. First have the battery checked because I think you'll find it may have a bad cell (and that's why it starts fine when cold but not hot when more starter draw occurs)
Next, the engine needs to be grounded to both the battery and the body, the body ground is the one at the rear of the head and it really doesn't matter which side of the firewall/engine its on.
Next the negative battery cable needs to physically ground to the engine block on a bolt that goes on the block ( on the side behind the alternator).
Ive seen people also run a second body to engine ground from this point also.

Lastly the positive cable going to the starter relay needs to be in good shape and connection quality.

PS...You can check for a short by removing the neg cable and putting a test light probe clip on the removed cable and the point to the neg post, if you have a drain somewhere the light will come on.

66mustangsally

Hi jlg2002, I was hoping that you can help us.

You mentioned to Pickles that there is no need for a ground cable from the starter. The starter grounds through the engine block you said, so we only need the cable from the starter to the right side of the solenoid????

My girlfriend and I have put in a new headlight wiring harness along with a new alternator wiring harness so we know we have the cable colors correct. Our doubt is how we have the starter connected since it sounds like the starter is ticking while the sparks are flying at the solenoid when we turn the key!!! We have the screw (ground screw?) on the back of the starter connected to the firewall since it looked like the diagram has a ground but you are saying this not needed???