t5 swap experience needed please
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 764
From: California
t5 swap experience needed please
First of all, apologies for the massive thread this is about to be, its length is meant to show how serious I am about doing this. My car currently has an fmx tranny that is getting ready to die (slipping). I know that this topic has received a lot of attention on this forum already, but after digging up old threads I still have some questions about the t5 swap. I spent over an hour constructing this thread and simulataneously looking at websites so your help/explanations are greatly appreciated. Before you refer me to a "complete kit" website, I have seen them all. With these types of things my experience has taught me its best to not trust anything that says "complete". Besides, I like doing research before getting into something. Also, I have read many available swap how-to's but they aren't answering the q's I have.
1) Everything I have read seems to tell me that as long as you don't powershift a stock WC t5, it is safe to run behind a mostly stock 351w that is street driven. By mostly stock I mean exhaust, a near-stock cam (practically stock), and maybe intake/air cleaner. Does that sound fair/accurate? If it matters I am hoping to find a 1990-93 WC unit.
2) What are people's opinions about using a cable clutch? How is the feel/effort? Something I have read is that cable clutches make finding headers that fit properly difficult, is that true? I plan on using something like hedman shorty headers, and I'm assuming those would be fine.
3) Any bellhousing from a stick 5.0 mustang will eliminate the need for an adapter plate, correct? What else is needed to mate the tranny to the engine?
4) My rear end has a 3.00 ratio, and I understand that a higher ratio such as 3.50 or 3.73 is considered optimum for this swap. Would 5th gear be useable for 70-75mph cruising? I calculated a 5th gear driving rpm of 1921 at 70mph but don't know if that is okay.
5) I am VERY confused with the pedal assembly and clutch operation aspect. Please be extra clear and patient with me here. Obviously I would need the pedal and whatever is needed to attach it to the pedal assembly, for which many kits exist.
example: http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...9-70-pedal.gif
Would I need a pedal stop? pedal return spring? anything else? And do holes need to be cut for the pedal or clutch cable assembly since my car is automatic? I'm assuming drilling is neccessary.
6) Would something like the following kit below give me everything I would need for the cable operation of the clutch?
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal..._Cable_kit.jpg
By everything I mean everything. AKA for the pedal/firewall area, running the cable, how it attaches to the tranny, everything needed to operate the clutch etc? What about routing the clutch cable? Where/how is it supported? I know I would need a clutch, what about a shift fork and any related parts? (again please explain/give detail!) I lack transmission/clutch knowledge because I have never worked with them before. As you can tell I don't really know what I need, but I am confident I could do the swap with the right preparation and guidance. Plus doing projects like this is my favorite way to learn these things.
7) It seems I would need a 28oz flywheel, correct? Do the flywheel and cluch depend on each other in terms of compatibility? AKA will any 28oz flywheel work with any of the available clutches for this application? Or should I buy them together ex http://moderndriveline.com/catalog/clutches.htm (the combo priced at $265 is what I'm thinking)
8) Would I need a new speedometer cable? How difficult is this install? What about the reverse switch? What must need to be done when doing this swap?
9) Any simple way to get a neutral safety switch to work on a classic? What I mean is to make the ignition require the clutch pedal to be pushed before starting. I figure this could save a potential incident.
10) I understand that shortening my driveshaft might be necessary. How does one tell if it is necessary? I have read that you measure endplay, how is this done? How much should having it shortened cost? I also understand I will need a new driveshaft yoke. Which on this list would I need?
http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/...oderndriveline
9) What is a block plate and which kind would I need/want?
10) OE starter works with this swap?
11) Can a 1990-93 WC t5 be upgraded to z spec? At what cost? Or is my thinking totally off? I'm hoping this wouldn't be that much more over the cost of a basic rebuild kit.
12) My plan is to scoop up a rebuildable 90-93 t5 and have it rebuilt to stock (or z) spec. I found this ad for rebuilding services and the price seems almost too good to be true. $275 labor plus parts for rebuild. I don't know if I can trust it... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/3279805020.html
The transmission is what's causing me the most worry. It doesn't seem like there is a TRUSTED company that sells rebuilt t5's cheaply ($600-900). And the cost of new stock t5's seems like so much considering their power limitations. Suggestions welcome here. What should a tranny shop charge for labor to rebuild a t5? I understand that the parts cost is variable here.
13) The automatics use vacuum lines. What must be done to plug these lines after the swap?
I want to buy a used bellhousing, used upgraded shifter (pro50 or hurst etc), lever, possibly flywheel, and other miscellaneous things to save cost. That is an additional reason I am asking such specific questions. Any answers won't just help me but future swappers as well. Let me know which Q your answering so this thread doesn't become too much of a mess if it isn't already. Thanks!
1) Everything I have read seems to tell me that as long as you don't powershift a stock WC t5, it is safe to run behind a mostly stock 351w that is street driven. By mostly stock I mean exhaust, a near-stock cam (practically stock), and maybe intake/air cleaner. Does that sound fair/accurate? If it matters I am hoping to find a 1990-93 WC unit.
2) What are people's opinions about using a cable clutch? How is the feel/effort? Something I have read is that cable clutches make finding headers that fit properly difficult, is that true? I plan on using something like hedman shorty headers, and I'm assuming those would be fine.
3) Any bellhousing from a stick 5.0 mustang will eliminate the need for an adapter plate, correct? What else is needed to mate the tranny to the engine?
4) My rear end has a 3.00 ratio, and I understand that a higher ratio such as 3.50 or 3.73 is considered optimum for this swap. Would 5th gear be useable for 70-75mph cruising? I calculated a 5th gear driving rpm of 1921 at 70mph but don't know if that is okay.
5) I am VERY confused with the pedal assembly and clutch operation aspect. Please be extra clear and patient with me here. Obviously I would need the pedal and whatever is needed to attach it to the pedal assembly, for which many kits exist.
example: http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...9-70-pedal.gif
Would I need a pedal stop? pedal return spring? anything else? And do holes need to be cut for the pedal or clutch cable assembly since my car is automatic? I'm assuming drilling is neccessary.
6) Would something like the following kit below give me everything I would need for the cable operation of the clutch?
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal..._Cable_kit.jpg
By everything I mean everything. AKA for the pedal/firewall area, running the cable, how it attaches to the tranny, everything needed to operate the clutch etc? What about routing the clutch cable? Where/how is it supported? I know I would need a clutch, what about a shift fork and any related parts? (again please explain/give detail!) I lack transmission/clutch knowledge because I have never worked with them before. As you can tell I don't really know what I need, but I am confident I could do the swap with the right preparation and guidance. Plus doing projects like this is my favorite way to learn these things.
7) It seems I would need a 28oz flywheel, correct? Do the flywheel and cluch depend on each other in terms of compatibility? AKA will any 28oz flywheel work with any of the available clutches for this application? Or should I buy them together ex http://moderndriveline.com/catalog/clutches.htm (the combo priced at $265 is what I'm thinking)
8) Would I need a new speedometer cable? How difficult is this install? What about the reverse switch? What must need to be done when doing this swap?
9) Any simple way to get a neutral safety switch to work on a classic? What I mean is to make the ignition require the clutch pedal to be pushed before starting. I figure this could save a potential incident.
10) I understand that shortening my driveshaft might be necessary. How does one tell if it is necessary? I have read that you measure endplay, how is this done? How much should having it shortened cost? I also understand I will need a new driveshaft yoke. Which on this list would I need?
http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/...oderndriveline
9) What is a block plate and which kind would I need/want?
10) OE starter works with this swap?
11) Can a 1990-93 WC t5 be upgraded to z spec? At what cost? Or is my thinking totally off? I'm hoping this wouldn't be that much more over the cost of a basic rebuild kit.
12) My plan is to scoop up a rebuildable 90-93 t5 and have it rebuilt to stock (or z) spec. I found this ad for rebuilding services and the price seems almost too good to be true. $275 labor plus parts for rebuild. I don't know if I can trust it... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/3279805020.html
The transmission is what's causing me the most worry. It doesn't seem like there is a TRUSTED company that sells rebuilt t5's cheaply ($600-900). And the cost of new stock t5's seems like so much considering their power limitations. Suggestions welcome here. What should a tranny shop charge for labor to rebuild a t5? I understand that the parts cost is variable here.
13) The automatics use vacuum lines. What must be done to plug these lines after the swap?
I want to buy a used bellhousing, used upgraded shifter (pro50 or hurst etc), lever, possibly flywheel, and other miscellaneous things to save cost. That is an additional reason I am asking such specific questions. Any answers won't just help me but future swappers as well. Let me know which Q your answering so this thread doesn't become too much of a mess if it isn't already. Thanks!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 386
From: Benicia, Ca
1) Everything I have read seems to tell me that as long as you don't powershift a stock WC t5, it is safe to run behind a mostly stock 351w that is street driven. By mostly stock I mean exhaust, a near-stock cam (practically stock), and maybe intake/air cleaner. Does that sound fair/accurate? If it matters I am hoping to find a 1990-93 WC unit.
A T5 will handle the torque from a 351W IF you dont abuse it. If you are drag racing and doing 4k RPM launches. you will probably kill it. You can get a T5z or have a T5 built to T5z specs
2) What are people's opinions about using a cable clutch? How is the feel/effort? Something I have read is that cable clutches make finding headers that fit properly difficult, is that true? I plan on using something like hedman shorty headers, and I'm assuming those would be fine.
I went with a hydraulic system to eliminate the cable burning issue and special headers. A cable system also must be routed through the engine compartment and stands out IMHO. The hydraulic system can be put together for $225 or less
3) Any bellhousing from a stick 5.0 mustang will eliminate the need for an adapter plate, correct? What else is needed to mate the tranny to the engine?
I used the 5.0 bell. I got it used for $25.
4) My rear end has a 3.00 ratio, and I understand that a higher ratio such as 3.50 or 3.73 is considered optimum for this swap. Would 5th gear be useable for 70-75mph cruising? I calculated a 5th gear driving rpm of 1921 at 70mph but don't know if that is okay.
I went with a 3.55 gear and the acceleration was very noticeable. Felt like 50HP was added to the engine. Freeway cruising was improved and it did not feel like I was lugging the engine @ 65mph
5) I am VERY confused with the pedal assembly and clutch operation aspect. Please be extra clear and patient with me here. Obviously I would need the pedal and whatever is needed to attach it to the pedal assembly, for which many kits exist.
example: http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...9-70-pedal.gif
Would I need a pedal stop? pedal return spring? anything else? And do holes need to be cut for the pedal or clutch cable assembly since my car is automatic? I'm assuming drilling is neccessary.
I had the pedal in my car. I did remove the assist spring with the hydraulic system and I am using a diaphragm clutch
7) It seems I would need a 28oz flywheel, correct? Do the flywheel and cluch depend on each other in terms of compatibility? AKA will any 28oz flywheel work with any of the available clutches for this application? Or should I buy them together ex http://moderndriveline.com/catalog/clutches.htm (the combo priced at $265 is what I'm thinking)
I went with a 28oz billet flywheel that mounts a 10 1/2 inch diaphragm to eliminate the old 3 finger 10inch. It was $100 on eBay
I went with a King Cobra 10 1/2inch diaphragm clutch package that included roller pilot bearing and throw out bearing. $150 on eBay
8) Would I need a new speedometer cable? How difficult is this install? What about the reverse switch? What must need to be done when doing this swap?
I used my old 3 speed cable. Still need to get a new gear for it to match my rear end gears
9) Any simple way to get a neutral safety switch to work on a classic? What I mean is to make the ignition require the clutch pedal to be pushed before starting. I figure this could save a potential incident.
Did not use the switch.
10) I understand that shortening my driveshaft might be necessary. How does one tell if it is necessary? I have read that you measure endplay, how is this done? How much should having it shortened cost? I also understand I will need a new driveshaft yoke. Which on this list would I need?
http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/...oderndriveline
If your yoke fits in the T5 you can use it. A T5 yoke is not really need if your old one is not worn where the seal rubs. Measure before you cut! you need 3/4 to 1 inch of freeplay. I went with custom aluminum model for $299
9) What is a block plate and which kind would I need/want?
It goes between the engine and the bellhousing. $25 on ebay
10) OE starter works with this swap?
I used a 5.0 starter but have read a OE starter will work
11) Can a 1990-93 WC t5 be upgraded to z spec? At what cost? Or is my thinking totally off? I'm hoping this wouldn't be that much more over the cost of a basic rebuild kit.
http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5.htm has good info. Stan is a great guy and knows lots about T5's. Very helpful
12) My plan is to scoop up a rebuildable 90-93 t5 and have it rebuilt to stock (or z) spec. I found this ad for rebuilding services and the price seems almost too good to be true. $275 labor plus parts for rebuild. I don't know if I can trust it... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/3279805020.html
The transmission is what's causing me the most worry. It doesn't seem like there is a TRUSTED company that sells rebuilt t5's cheaply ($600-900). And the cost of new stock t5's seems like so much considering their power limitations. Suggestions welcome here. What should a tranny shop charge for labor to rebuild a t5? I understand that the parts cost is variable here.
I have friend who went to Sears Point and had him rebuild his T5. Warranties his work also
13) The automatics use vacuum lines. What must be done to plug these lines after the swap?
I want to buy a used bellhousing, used upgraded shifter (pro50 or hurst etc), lever, possibly flywheel, and other miscellaneous things to save cost. That is an additional reason I am asking such specific questions. Any answers won't just help me but future swappers as well. Let me know which Q your answering so this thread doesn't become too much of a mess if it isn't already. Thanks!
Used T5 300
RMC cross member mount 135
T5 Rubber mount 10
Shift handle 25
hydraulic clutch system 225
billet flywheel 100
king Cobra Clutch 150
ARP bolts 30
Bellhousing 25
block plate 25
starter 65
fork 20
Extras:
Aluminum drive shaft 299
3.55 trac lock pumpkin 700
Info I put together on my 66 you will find helpful:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id32.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id38.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id33.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id34.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id44.html
Modern Driveline sells good stuff but you pay for the service of them putting everything together in 1 box. You are doing right by asking questions and getting a plan and parts list together before you buy.
Last edited by chris66dad; Sep 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 710
From: Indianapolis
Just find a donor Fox body and steal the trans,bell,BLOCK PLATE,shifter,flywheel and clutch and STARTER. I got all of that on CL for $500.
Those mini starters ROCK! Or just go to the store and buy one, its a slam dunk no brainer to wire and it fits under headers with tons of room so it will not get as hot. And it spins the motor faster.
Take the flywheel to a machine shop and pay about $75 to remove some weight so it ends up at 28oz imbalance. Entertain resurfacing if it looks bad, they can help you decide.
If the clutch looks sketchy get a new one for a FOX body 5.0 car, maybe a better than stock one. I used the one I got with my pile o parts, if it dies it dies I can deal with that later. (But its been two seasons so far)
The motor plate is a thin sheet of steel that acts like a gasket between the bell and the block, use it.
Suck it up and buy the modern hydraulic clutch kit. Drill/tap the stock bell for the mounting bracket and mount it (Piece of cake) Cables kinda suck, and the DIY kits can save you money, but I found the hassle of sourcing parts and making sure I had the right bits not worth the savings.
Install a new pilot bearing (freeze it overnight and it helps)
Remove the fulcrum post from inside the bell and stick a thick washer on it and re-install, this seems to be needed. I did it and it helped with adjusting the clutch because it gives you a bit more stroke adjustment (I think I added two).
Install clutch & bell
Install the T5.
Install the new cross member to hold up the tail shaft.
Test fit your drive shaft, it may fit, it may be long. I had mine shortened 1" for $35. I never did get it balanced and it works great with no vibes, go figure?
Insert your old tired speedometer cable in the speedo hole, you will need to toss the speed sensor that resides in the hole, but your cable/gear fits perfectly in place. You will adjust that gear choice later.
Go up top and see if the shifter will fit through the hole in the floor. I had to remove my motor mounts and slot the holes to move my motor back 1" to hit that hole perfectly. You may not need to as these cars had a bunch of tolerance from the factory. These cars are not all the same. If I did not need to move my motor back I would have been fine with a stock drive shaft.
If the shifter fits without colision dont forget to add oil through the shifter hole before you button it up.I prefer aftermarket shifters that eliminate rubber and have adjustable shifter stops. My stops were kinda wide on my Hurst so I cut them off and shortened the threaded plate and welded it back on. It works but I have less adjustment (But I only need to set it and forget it, whats all of that extra material for anyway?)
I run 3:55 gears, 3:73 would work better for me as I plan on taller wheels, but with my current 14" tires its about perfect.
Neutral safety is a slam dunk the T5 has accommodation for this and back up lights. I run neither, but Im crazy like that.
The clutch pedal can slide onto your existing pedal set, its a good time to add some bearings. Throw away that giant spring now, you dont need it with the new style clutch.
The moral of the story is that its just not that hard. Other than getting the drive shaft cut and installing the hydro clutch (OK, that kinda sux under the dash) its kinda like these trannys are made to fit.
Those mini starters ROCK! Or just go to the store and buy one, its a slam dunk no brainer to wire and it fits under headers with tons of room so it will not get as hot. And it spins the motor faster.
Take the flywheel to a machine shop and pay about $75 to remove some weight so it ends up at 28oz imbalance. Entertain resurfacing if it looks bad, they can help you decide.
If the clutch looks sketchy get a new one for a FOX body 5.0 car, maybe a better than stock one. I used the one I got with my pile o parts, if it dies it dies I can deal with that later. (But its been two seasons so far)
The motor plate is a thin sheet of steel that acts like a gasket between the bell and the block, use it.
Suck it up and buy the modern hydraulic clutch kit. Drill/tap the stock bell for the mounting bracket and mount it (Piece of cake) Cables kinda suck, and the DIY kits can save you money, but I found the hassle of sourcing parts and making sure I had the right bits not worth the savings.
Install a new pilot bearing (freeze it overnight and it helps)
Remove the fulcrum post from inside the bell and stick a thick washer on it and re-install, this seems to be needed. I did it and it helped with adjusting the clutch because it gives you a bit more stroke adjustment (I think I added two).
Install clutch & bell
Install the T5.
Install the new cross member to hold up the tail shaft.
Test fit your drive shaft, it may fit, it may be long. I had mine shortened 1" for $35. I never did get it balanced and it works great with no vibes, go figure?
Insert your old tired speedometer cable in the speedo hole, you will need to toss the speed sensor that resides in the hole, but your cable/gear fits perfectly in place. You will adjust that gear choice later.
Go up top and see if the shifter will fit through the hole in the floor. I had to remove my motor mounts and slot the holes to move my motor back 1" to hit that hole perfectly. You may not need to as these cars had a bunch of tolerance from the factory. These cars are not all the same. If I did not need to move my motor back I would have been fine with a stock drive shaft.
If the shifter fits without colision dont forget to add oil through the shifter hole before you button it up.I prefer aftermarket shifters that eliminate rubber and have adjustable shifter stops. My stops were kinda wide on my Hurst so I cut them off and shortened the threaded plate and welded it back on. It works but I have less adjustment (But I only need to set it and forget it, whats all of that extra material for anyway?)
I run 3:55 gears, 3:73 would work better for me as I plan on taller wheels, but with my current 14" tires its about perfect.
Neutral safety is a slam dunk the T5 has accommodation for this and back up lights. I run neither, but Im crazy like that.
The clutch pedal can slide onto your existing pedal set, its a good time to add some bearings. Throw away that giant spring now, you dont need it with the new style clutch.
The moral of the story is that its just not that hard. Other than getting the drive shaft cut and installing the hydro clutch (OK, that kinda sux under the dash) its kinda like these trannys are made to fit.
Last edited by Coupe; Sep 23, 2012 at 02:15 PM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 764
From: California
Wow I just had a bunch of follow up questions typed here and when i clicked reply they all got deleted. I spent forever typing too! I am going to have to get back to you guys a little later...fml
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 764
From: California
Questions 1, 3, 4, 8, and 10 answered!
Thanks for the info guys I appreciate all of it. I am getting closer to understanding what's involved here. I have some questions remaining still:
What exactly distinguishes a z spec t5 from a regular wc t5? Can a wc t5 be cheaply built to z spec? I'm looking for parts #'s or at least things to look for.
So there is no pedal spring I need at all when I buy a clutch pedal assembly?
@Coupe what did you mean by "Take the flywheel to a machine shop and pay about $75 to remove some weight so it ends up at 28oz imbalance " ?? Remove weight? I know that 5.0's used 50oz flywheels... Idk what you meant with that part about the fulcrum post/ washers, can you explain please?
@ron I thoroughly read your hydraulic clutch install pages, and the kits just seem so much easier (and a little nicer) like Coupe said.
I am really leaning towards buying the external style hydraulic clutch kit from moderndriveline. The design looks good and sounds good to me. How does the stock clutch pedal stop work with a hydraulic clutch system? What I mean is can the pedal actuation be adjusted so that the clutch is fully engaged right before the stop? If I can piece the rest of everything up cheaply I might be able to go this route.
Does the t5 interfere with the OE parking brake cable? Also, I would really like the reverse lights to work and having the neutral safety switch would be cool too but not necessary. Not sure how to do either of those.
About the rear end ratio thing...I already knew that 3.00 were not perfect for a t5 swap. I am simply curious if the 1920rpms that I calculated at 70mph (or 2056 at 75mph) is do able. 351w's in stock fashion are pretty torquey in the low end, and I find myself thinking that it would be fine other than for quick acceleration, but hey downshifting is fun!
What is a pilot bearing install like? What is needed here? I have seen hydraulic pilot bearings, are these useable with the setup I am going for? Worth it?
I know I need a 28oz flywheel for 351w. My car is auto, does it already have one or are they different for manual trannies?
So here is my preliminary parts list:
t5 (assume shifter is attached)
pilot bearing (what else needed HERE?)
5.0 bellhousing
5.0 block plate
t5 crossmember
5.0 shift fork (what accessories/pieces are needed HERE?)
hydraulic clutch system (leaving details out purposely)
28oz flywheel
5.0 clutch
NOT a starter (mine is pretty new so I would like to re use)
related hardware
Thanks for the info guys I appreciate all of it. I am getting closer to understanding what's involved here. I have some questions remaining still:
What exactly distinguishes a z spec t5 from a regular wc t5? Can a wc t5 be cheaply built to z spec? I'm looking for parts #'s or at least things to look for.
So there is no pedal spring I need at all when I buy a clutch pedal assembly?
@Coupe what did you mean by "Take the flywheel to a machine shop and pay about $75 to remove some weight so it ends up at 28oz imbalance " ?? Remove weight? I know that 5.0's used 50oz flywheels... Idk what you meant with that part about the fulcrum post/ washers, can you explain please?
@ron I thoroughly read your hydraulic clutch install pages, and the kits just seem so much easier (and a little nicer) like Coupe said.
I am really leaning towards buying the external style hydraulic clutch kit from moderndriveline. The design looks good and sounds good to me. How does the stock clutch pedal stop work with a hydraulic clutch system? What I mean is can the pedal actuation be adjusted so that the clutch is fully engaged right before the stop? If I can piece the rest of everything up cheaply I might be able to go this route.
Does the t5 interfere with the OE parking brake cable? Also, I would really like the reverse lights to work and having the neutral safety switch would be cool too but not necessary. Not sure how to do either of those.
About the rear end ratio thing...I already knew that 3.00 were not perfect for a t5 swap. I am simply curious if the 1920rpms that I calculated at 70mph (or 2056 at 75mph) is do able. 351w's in stock fashion are pretty torquey in the low end, and I find myself thinking that it would be fine other than for quick acceleration, but hey downshifting is fun!
What is a pilot bearing install like? What is needed here? I have seen hydraulic pilot bearings, are these useable with the setup I am going for? Worth it?
I know I need a 28oz flywheel for 351w. My car is auto, does it already have one or are they different for manual trannies?
So here is my preliminary parts list:
t5 (assume shifter is attached)
pilot bearing (what else needed HERE?)
5.0 bellhousing
5.0 block plate
t5 crossmember
5.0 shift fork (what accessories/pieces are needed HERE?)
hydraulic clutch system (leaving details out purposely)
28oz flywheel
5.0 clutch
NOT a starter (mine is pretty new so I would like to re use)
related hardware
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 710
From: Indianapolis
From the top.
The Z spec is a gear ratio change, not much else. It gives you a deeper OD IIRC. Dont get hung up on it, if you find one great. If you need to rebuild and replace gears then going that route is great. Any pre-93 World class T5 is light years beyond what you have now or the Top loaders.
Spring: The new clutch designs use a diaphragm spring, so you dont need another spring under your dash. In fact, it may hold the clutch down at high RPM's causing horror stories.
Flywheel. The 5.0 motors are a 50Oz imbalance and if you use it in stock trim it will shake your motor. I used one on my 302 by having a shop remove enough weight to match the 28Oz imbalance of the 289/302 & 351W motors. It was much cheaper than buying a new flywheel. The new flywheels are cheap in a 50OZ compared to what you get in the 28Oz. But, check prices and you may find a deal on a new 28Oz flywheel that makes it worth while....Im just a cheap ***.
Fulcrum washer. That post inside the T5 bellhousing with the round dome in it is where the clutch lever sets. It is the pivot point for the clutch. Guys are finding that the Hydro clutches can run a bit short on some cars and run out of adjustment, so we shim that post to gain some adjustment back at the clutch slave cylinder adjuster rod. Its just a "Do it while its apart" thing, its not absolutely necessary for every car.
Pedal stop. Many have found that if anything these hydro clutch units work close to the floor anyway, you just need to adjust it so you dont bottom out your master cylinder and damage it. The instructions explain that.
Parking brake. Its not changed, your new cross member has provisions for that flat lever under the car that the cable hooks to. See pic.
Pilot bearing. It goes into the end of the crank so the trans shaft rides in it. The old cars used bushings, but bearings are the new hotness. (they are cheap)
Flywheel again. You currently have a flex plate. It is just a holder for the ring gear, its thin and not at all like a flywheel. The flywheel is a heavy, flat mass that the clutch disk faces up against to connect the power to the motor. Again, I had a FOX body 5.0 flywheel re-balanced to match my motor since it came with my pile o parts.
The Z spec is a gear ratio change, not much else. It gives you a deeper OD IIRC. Dont get hung up on it, if you find one great. If you need to rebuild and replace gears then going that route is great. Any pre-93 World class T5 is light years beyond what you have now or the Top loaders.
Spring: The new clutch designs use a diaphragm spring, so you dont need another spring under your dash. In fact, it may hold the clutch down at high RPM's causing horror stories.
Flywheel. The 5.0 motors are a 50Oz imbalance and if you use it in stock trim it will shake your motor. I used one on my 302 by having a shop remove enough weight to match the 28Oz imbalance of the 289/302 & 351W motors. It was much cheaper than buying a new flywheel. The new flywheels are cheap in a 50OZ compared to what you get in the 28Oz. But, check prices and you may find a deal on a new 28Oz flywheel that makes it worth while....Im just a cheap ***.
Fulcrum washer. That post inside the T5 bellhousing with the round dome in it is where the clutch lever sets. It is the pivot point for the clutch. Guys are finding that the Hydro clutches can run a bit short on some cars and run out of adjustment, so we shim that post to gain some adjustment back at the clutch slave cylinder adjuster rod. Its just a "Do it while its apart" thing, its not absolutely necessary for every car.
Pedal stop. Many have found that if anything these hydro clutch units work close to the floor anyway, you just need to adjust it so you dont bottom out your master cylinder and damage it. The instructions explain that.
Parking brake. Its not changed, your new cross member has provisions for that flat lever under the car that the cable hooks to. See pic.
Pilot bearing. It goes into the end of the crank so the trans shaft rides in it. The old cars used bushings, but bearings are the new hotness. (they are cheap)
Flywheel again. You currently have a flex plate. It is just a holder for the ring gear, its thin and not at all like a flywheel. The flywheel is a heavy, flat mass that the clutch disk faces up against to connect the power to the motor. Again, I had a FOX body 5.0 flywheel re-balanced to match my motor since it came with my pile o parts.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 764
From: California
One word for this forum and its members. GOLD. You guys are so helpful. Are any special tools/steps needed for a pilot bearing install? Which one do I need? And what's the big deal with hydraulic throwout bearings? How do they work or how are they different from a normal throwout bearing?
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 710
From: Indianapolis
Bruce at modern sells hydro throw out bearings but will flat out tell you to go external slave, if it fails or leakes or needs adjusted you don't need to pull the tranny.
The pilot bearing is simple really, just google around a bit because it's the same on a 5.0 fox cars and there are tons of threads and a video or two.
Good luck.
The pilot bearing is simple really, just google around a bit because it's the same on a 5.0 fox cars and there are tons of threads and a video or two.
Good luck.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 535
From: Maryland
Enough good information was posted about the conversion.... but here is my 2 cents:
- Whatever you do, don't get a T5 from a v6 or a 4 bangger! Stupid here did that and destroyed my engine (see my postings for more info). even the bell housing made a difference... ie don't use a 8v tranny with a 4 bangger bell housing. To make a long story short, make sure you read the numbers on the tranny. Don't take anyone's word either. I swapped my $1,200 c4 setup for a 4 bangger tranny and $500 cash, and it ended up costing about $6,000 after everything was said and done (had to buy a new engine and tranny).
My threads in regards to my T5 install and headaches:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...ssue-help.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...on-issues.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...shing-wtf.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...adjusting.html
- My stock starter did not work with my new style ( I think it was 1990) bell housing. The starter hit the back of the bell housing and I had to buy a new starter for a 90 mustang
- I used the hydraulic external slave, and wouldn't do anything different. Actually, everyone that drives my car loves it too...... My wife can even drive it without causing her leg to go numb..... Plus it looks a lot cleaner than the cable. I might actually try the modify the new McLeod hyd internal throughout bearing when I drop my tranny this winter.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/mcleod-cl...9-2004/p/HCC3/
- I ended up getting my tranny from http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/ . I have been very happy with them. However and on that note, I bought the 295SHD T-5 and think the gearing is too low for my 3.80 gears. (.63 vs .59; 4.11s would probably solve my issue) I like to cruise between 60 and 65 mph and 4th is a little too high rpm wise (3,000 rpm) and to go into 5th without bogging the car down, I at least need to be doing 70mph (and I'm usually at 1,900rpm). In saying that, I can send my tranny back to them and they will give me the stock cobra gearing for free which would solve my issue without having to change the rear gears.
- Lastly, If you will be cruising at high speeds.... you may want to consider a disc brake upgrade. I can't tell you how many lights I have blown threw because I couldn't slow down quick enough with drums on 4 corners.
- Whatever you do, don't get a T5 from a v6 or a 4 bangger! Stupid here did that and destroyed my engine (see my postings for more info). even the bell housing made a difference... ie don't use a 8v tranny with a 4 bangger bell housing. To make a long story short, make sure you read the numbers on the tranny. Don't take anyone's word either. I swapped my $1,200 c4 setup for a 4 bangger tranny and $500 cash, and it ended up costing about $6,000 after everything was said and done (had to buy a new engine and tranny).
My threads in regards to my T5 install and headaches:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...ssue-help.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...on-issues.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...shing-wtf.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...adjusting.html
- My stock starter did not work with my new style ( I think it was 1990) bell housing. The starter hit the back of the bell housing and I had to buy a new starter for a 90 mustang
- I used the hydraulic external slave, and wouldn't do anything different. Actually, everyone that drives my car loves it too...... My wife can even drive it without causing her leg to go numb..... Plus it looks a lot cleaner than the cable. I might actually try the modify the new McLeod hyd internal throughout bearing when I drop my tranny this winter.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/mcleod-cl...9-2004/p/HCC3/
- I ended up getting my tranny from http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/ . I have been very happy with them. However and on that note, I bought the 295SHD T-5 and think the gearing is too low for my 3.80 gears. (.63 vs .59; 4.11s would probably solve my issue) I like to cruise between 60 and 65 mph and 4th is a little too high rpm wise (3,000 rpm) and to go into 5th without bogging the car down, I at least need to be doing 70mph (and I'm usually at 1,900rpm). In saying that, I can send my tranny back to them and they will give me the stock cobra gearing for free which would solve my issue without having to change the rear gears.
- Lastly, If you will be cruising at high speeds.... you may want to consider a disc brake upgrade. I can't tell you how many lights I have blown threw because I couldn't slow down quick enough with drums on 4 corners.