i am going to convert to discs in the front as part of my resto. i remember with the drums having to almost stand on the pedal to stop the car. will non-power discs improve this? thanks in advance for the help.

 

I upgraded to the CSRP kit w/o the booster and it is a HUGE improvement over drums. It's not even close to the brakes on our BMW but then I don't expect it to be. The biggest improvement is the ability to control the car under heavy braking. Now the car doesn't pull to one side causing you to have to compensate and fight with the car.

 

Agreed. I have the same kit on my '67fb and I love it. I originally got the non-booster kit to save a couple bucks, thinking I could always add a booster later. After driving it, I've never considered installing a booster again. It takes much less pedal effort to stop the car, the brakes are easier to modulate, and they don't pull.

I'd recommend the OE-style kit with the Kelsey-Hayes calipers. They were original to the vehicle, and they don't require you to change spindles.

 

Brief hijack for you aftermarket brake guys. Where do you get replacement pads? I know it's not a common occurrence but it's bound to happen.

 

The nice thing about the OE-style CSRP kit is that you can pick up pads from any local parts supplier, because they're factory equipment. The basic organic pads will do the job for most daily driving.

That said, if you want a more aggressive pad compound, semi-metallic versions can be had from most Mustang parts suppliers, and I think Hawk makes some of their green pads as well.

 

For switching from organic to semi type brakes don't the brake rotors also have to be changed or, are the rotors that come with the kit compatible with both materials?

I remember years ago that conversion kits came set up for organic or semi only and if you wanted to upgrade the pads you needed to update the rotors as well.

 

I run Wilwood, affordable and extremely reliable and high performance (they mainly build their stuff with racing in mind). They offer a ton of pad compounds with varied wear, noise and dust. I run a non power system and the stopping power is pretty crazy, even using just their BP-10 pads (Wilwood is the only manufacturer I've seen that actually lists COF vs temp charts for all their pad compounds).

 

Not true at all. Rotor composition/quality varies between manufacturers, and between quality levels from the same manufacturer, but in practicality has nothing to do with pad compound (ignoring some of the exotic brake setups out there). Semi-metallic pad compounds often perform poorly (squeaky, low braking power, etc) when cold, but have a higher friction coefficient when they warm up and transfer heat away from the friction surface very well, preventing brake fade at high temps. Organic and ceramic compounds are often softer and quieter, and they perform better/more predictably under a wider range of temperatures, but they don't transfer heat as well and will fade and glaze under high temps.

Basically, get a good rotor and pads to suit your driving style, keeping in mind that more aggressive pads won't operate as well before they heat up.

 

The newer semi metallic stuff works well in the cold. They're a lot noisier and make tons of dust though.