Aussi Heads for a Clev
What are a pair of Aussie heads worth?
They both need all new valves. I figure the valves will be around 150-200.
One head has screw in studs & guide plates installed. The guy said he didnt have time to do the studs in the second head yet.
They worth 325 for the pair?
I'm planning on also putting in 2.1 intake valves in them.
A stupid question here. Are the Ausies identical to the stock 2v except for the closed chambers?
Thanks!
They both need all new valves. I figure the valves will be around 150-200.
One head has screw in studs & guide plates installed. The guy said he didnt have time to do the studs in the second head yet.
They worth 325 for the pair?
I'm planning on also putting in 2.1 intake valves in them.
A stupid question here. Are the Ausies identical to the stock 2v except for the closed chambers?
Thanks!
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
Sounds okay to me price wise. Cant buy aluminum heads for that price..
If you want the compression but not the huge ports, that is the way to go.
I never found the 4V heads to be that soggy on the bottom, even with a stock converter and 3.00 gears. Just my experience I guess, maybe I had it cammed right or something.
If you want the compression but not the huge ports, that is the way to go.I never found the 4V heads to be that soggy on the bottom, even with a stock converter and 3.00 gears. Just my experience I guess, maybe I had it cammed right or something.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
I've decided on the Weiand Intake Manifold, X-CELerator, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V.
I'm going to match that up with forged flat tops and am told that will run around 10.5 to 11:1 comp. I'm still deciding on the cam but will have a top range of 6500-7000 and be solid.
I'll pickout the carb after the cam decision is made. I really hate the thought of taking of the Ford 4300 carb but there isn't anyway to use that with the new setup.
If I can find an AOD that will be strong enough for this, I'm getting that otherwise I'm putting in a C4 with a 3000-3500 stall. Haven't decided on gears. Maybe something just under 4.11's. I might go with 4.11's if I get the AOD.
That will keep me out of trouble for awhile!
I'm looking to take it to the track ocassionally but mainy fun around town and a few 1-2 hr drives for shows in the area.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Sounds okay to me price wise. Cant buy aluminum heads for that price..
If you want the compression but not the huge ports, that is the way to go.
I never found the 4V heads to be that soggy on the bottom, even with a stock converter and 3.00 gears. Just my experience I guess, maybe I had it cammed right or something.
Sounds okay to me price wise. Cant buy aluminum heads for that price..
If you want the compression but not the huge ports, that is the way to go.I never found the 4V heads to be that soggy on the bottom, even with a stock converter and 3.00 gears. Just my experience I guess, maybe I had it cammed right or something.
I'm looking for a hotter cam than the stock 4v and shoud run up to 6500-7500 rpm's. O'm looking at 400+hp out of this. I'll be trading driveability on the street for the extra power but really don't put more than a 2k per year on it.
I've got the stock 2.75:1 in mine now. I'm looking forward to new gears too!
Well talkin 6500/7000 rpm is more than enough to make a 4V run. I never got mine over 6k and it was severly traction limited in a 72 Grande. 4V heads will work for what you want, and then some. If you have 2v, then the Aussies will work good, but you will be in race gas territory with the compression. 92/93 will work as long as you back off the timing and dont open it up much. You will knock the rod bearings out of it if you beat it running on pump gas. Been there done that. 72-74 4V heads are low compression, so you dont need race gas with them, unless you run a dome. Race gas is over $5 per gallon last I checked FYI.
Remember that the Cleveland doesnt have adjustable valvetrain, except for the 71 BOSS, and those heads are kinda rare. So you will have to work that issue if you go with a solid. You can make a hydrualic cam work up to 7k, but you will still need adjustable valvetrain.
4.11's will work good, also try some 4.30's and if you go over 250@.050 duration a set of 4.56 gears would work. Coupled with 27-28" dia tires, it should work pretty well.
4V heads can pick up some power with plates that fill the bottom of the exhaust port and increase velocity, if I do some searching I think I can find them again. Takes a while on dial up tho. I would suggest for a mild 4v build, a cam that has at least 240@.050 intake to go with your converter, gears, and the intake. Add a 750 or 780 holley carb and a good set of headers and that thing will scream. If you can get your car under 3400lbs wet, mid 12's shouldnt be much of a problem. Our cars are the heavy Mustangs, and I figure yours is nicer than mine. Might be tough to lose some weight from it.
The cam I used in my street 4v was a comp cams 280 magnum. Its an old school cam but I could use the stock springs and converter with it. I even had the stock carb and intake on it, but a nice set of super comp headers. Probably would have ran better with more intake and carb, but it was all I had when I was 18.
If this 71 doesnt sell for what I need from it, it will get the 4v engine I have ready with more cam and a better intake. I will have one hell of a nice race car then..lol.
Remember that the Cleveland doesnt have adjustable valvetrain, except for the 71 BOSS, and those heads are kinda rare. So you will have to work that issue if you go with a solid. You can make a hydrualic cam work up to 7k, but you will still need adjustable valvetrain.
4.11's will work good, also try some 4.30's and if you go over 250@.050 duration a set of 4.56 gears would work. Coupled with 27-28" dia tires, it should work pretty well.
4V heads can pick up some power with plates that fill the bottom of the exhaust port and increase velocity, if I do some searching I think I can find them again. Takes a while on dial up tho. I would suggest for a mild 4v build, a cam that has at least 240@.050 intake to go with your converter, gears, and the intake. Add a 750 or 780 holley carb and a good set of headers and that thing will scream. If you can get your car under 3400lbs wet, mid 12's shouldnt be much of a problem. Our cars are the heavy Mustangs, and I figure yours is nicer than mine. Might be tough to lose some weight from it.
The cam I used in my street 4v was a comp cams 280 magnum. Its an old school cam but I could use the stock springs and converter with it. I even had the stock carb and intake on it, but a nice set of super comp headers. Probably would have ran better with more intake and carb, but it was all I had when I was 18.
If this 71 doesnt sell for what I need from it, it will get the 4v engine I have ready with more cam and a better intake. I will have one hell of a nice race car then..lol.
ORIGINAL: 73Cleveland
I've been researching these and am trying to finalize the deal on the Aussie heads. I've heard that adding the 2.1 intake with a little addtl port work will help even more.
I've decided on the Weiand Intake Manifold, X-CELerator, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V.
I'm going to match that up with forged flat tops and am told that will run around 10.5 to 11:1 comp. I'm still deciding on the cam but will have a top range of 6500-7000 and be solid.
I'll pickout the carb after the cam decision is made. I really hate the thought of taking of the Ford 4300 carb but there isn't anyway to use that with the new setup.
If I can find an AOD that will be strong enough for this, I'm getting that otherwise I'm putting in a C4 with a 3000-3500 stall. Haven't decided on gears. Maybe something just under 4.11's. I might go with 4.11's if I get the AOD.
That will keep me out of trouble for awhile!
I'm looking to take it to the track ocassionally but mainy fun around town and a few 1-2 hr drives for shows in the area.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
I've decided on the Weiand Intake Manifold, X-CELerator, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V.
I'm going to match that up with forged flat tops and am told that will run around 10.5 to 11:1 comp. I'm still deciding on the cam but will have a top range of 6500-7000 and be solid.
I'll pickout the carb after the cam decision is made. I really hate the thought of taking of the Ford 4300 carb but there isn't anyway to use that with the new setup.
If I can find an AOD that will be strong enough for this, I'm getting that otherwise I'm putting in a C4 with a 3000-3500 stall. Haven't decided on gears. Maybe something just under 4.11's. I might go with 4.11's if I get the AOD.
That will keep me out of trouble for awhile!
I'm looking to take it to the track ocassionally but mainy fun around town and a few 1-2 hr drives for shows in the area.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Well talkin 6500/7000 rpm is more than enough to make a 4V run. I never got mine over 6k and it was severly traction limited in a 72 Grande. 4V heads will work for what you want, and then some. If you have 2v, then the Aussies will work good, but you will be in race gas territory with the compression. 92/93 will work as long as you back off the timing and dont open it up much. You will knock the rod bearings out of it if you beat it running on pump gas. Been there done that. 72-74 4V heads are low compression, so you dont need race gas with them, unless you run a dome. Race gas is over $5 per gallon last I checked FYI.
Remember that the Cleveland doesnt have adjustable valvetrain, except for the 71 BOSS, and those heads are kinda rare. So you will have to work that issue if you go with a solid. You can make a hydrualic cam work up to 7k, but you will still need adjustable valvetrain.
4.11's will work good, also try some 4.30's and if you go over 250@.050 duration a set of 4.56 gears would work. Coupled with 27-28" dia tires, it should work pretty well.
4V heads can pick up some power with plates that fill the bottom of the exhaust port and increase velocity, if I do some searching I think I can find them again. Takes a while on dial up tho. I would suggest for a mild 4v build, a cam that has at least 240@.050 intake to go with your converter, gears, and the intake. Add a 750 or 780 holley carb and a good set of headers and that thing will scream. If you can get your car under 3400lbs wet, mid 12's shouldnt be much of a problem. Our cars are the heavy Mustangs, and I figure yours is nicer than mine. Might be tough to lose some weight from it.
The cam I used in my street 4v was a comp cams 280 magnum. Its an old school cam but I could use the stock springs and converter with it. I even had the stock carb and intake on it, but a nice set of super comp headers. Probably would have ran better with more intake and carb, but it was all I had when I was 18.
If this 71 doesnt sell for what I need from it, it will get the 4v engine I have ready with more cam and a better intake. I will have one hell of a nice race car then..lol.
Well talkin 6500/7000 rpm is more than enough to make a 4V run. I never got mine over 6k and it was severly traction limited in a 72 Grande. 4V heads will work for what you want, and then some. If you have 2v, then the Aussies will work good, but you will be in race gas territory with the compression. 92/93 will work as long as you back off the timing and dont open it up much. You will knock the rod bearings out of it if you beat it running on pump gas. Been there done that. 72-74 4V heads are low compression, so you dont need race gas with them, unless you run a dome. Race gas is over $5 per gallon last I checked FYI.
Remember that the Cleveland doesnt have adjustable valvetrain, except for the 71 BOSS, and those heads are kinda rare. So you will have to work that issue if you go with a solid. You can make a hydrualic cam work up to 7k, but you will still need adjustable valvetrain.
4.11's will work good, also try some 4.30's and if you go over 250@.050 duration a set of 4.56 gears would work. Coupled with 27-28" dia tires, it should work pretty well.
4V heads can pick up some power with plates that fill the bottom of the exhaust port and increase velocity, if I do some searching I think I can find them again. Takes a while on dial up tho. I would suggest for a mild 4v build, a cam that has at least 240@.050 intake to go with your converter, gears, and the intake. Add a 750 or 780 holley carb and a good set of headers and that thing will scream. If you can get your car under 3400lbs wet, mid 12's shouldnt be much of a problem. Our cars are the heavy Mustangs, and I figure yours is nicer than mine. Might be tough to lose some weight from it.
The cam I used in my street 4v was a comp cams 280 magnum. Its an old school cam but I could use the stock springs and converter with it. I even had the stock carb and intake on it, but a nice set of super comp headers. Probably would have ran better with more intake and carb, but it was all I had when I was 18.
If this 71 doesnt sell for what I need from it, it will get the 4v engine I have ready with more cam and a better intake. I will have one hell of a nice race car then..lol.
From what I can find out, with flat tops and the Aussie heads, I'll be anywhere from 10.5-11:1 comp. Since they're flat top's, I should be able to run premium pump in it. The flat tops burn better at the same compression as the domed and let the flat tops run less octane.
Like you mentioned, I'll go with a cam that has at least 240-250@.050. I have some more checking to do before I decide on what size. I'm still trying to decide on the best carb. From what I've heard here in the past, Holly is good but hard to dial-in. I had a bad experience with Edelbrock so I don't know if I want to go there again either. I'll make a final decision at least on CFM after I get the cam.
The 4v heads are massive and great for racing. I'm looking for something that will have better manners on the street since 90%+ will be done there.
I was thinking about dropping in a 429 but started looking at all that would need to be done to get decent power from that and decided the Clev build was the best way to go. I'll actually reduce weight by going with the alum intake.
Yeah, this era of Mustang is the most heavy of the classic line. Making them go as fast as the earlier/lighter rides takes more effort. The nice thing is that I think the newer ones may have better/stronger suspensions. I know it will require some changes to stiffin it up some though. I don't plan on road racing it just haveing some fun street driving and at cruise-in's. I may open a can of worms there!
I still have to also decide on what headers to get. I don't have anything in-mind for that yet. I just know I want to get something that doesn't require any mods to the engine comp or headers.
Then of course I need to decide on gears once I gecide on a tranny. I've heard others talk about AOD's not holding up to much abuse. If that's the case, I'll go with a C4 and high 3.xx gears. If I go with the AOD, I'll prob go with the 4.11's.
Then wheels and tires will be next! Oh Boy!
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Just make sure you know what you want tha engine to act like before deciding on the single plane intake.
ORIGINAL: 73Cleveland
I've been researching these and am trying to finalize the deal on the Aussie heads. I've heard that adding the 2.1 intake with a little addtl port work will help even more.
I've decided on the Weiand Intake Manifold, X-CELerator, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V.
I'm going to match that up with forged flat tops and am told that will run around 10.5 to 11:1 comp. I'm still deciding on the cam but will have a top range of 6500-7000 and be solid.
I'll pickout the carb after the cam decision is made. I really hate the thought of taking of the Ford 4300 carb but there isn't anyway to use that with the new setup.
If I can find an AOD that will be strong enough for this, I'm getting that otherwise I'm putting in a C4 with a 3000-3500 stall. Haven't decided on gears. Maybe something just under 4.11's. I might go with 4.11's if I get the AOD.
That will keep me out of trouble for awhile!
I'm looking to take it to the track ocassionally but mainy fun around town and a few 1-2 hr drives for shows in the area.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
The Australian Cleveland head offers the best of both worlds--smaller ports (like the 351C-2V head) for low-end torque and closed wedge chambers (like the 351C-4V head) for power increases. I would think they would be worth that much. For around 500 bux you'll have a nice set of heads.
I've decided on the Weiand Intake Manifold, X-CELerator, Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V.
I'm going to match that up with forged flat tops and am told that will run around 10.5 to 11:1 comp. I'm still deciding on the cam but will have a top range of 6500-7000 and be solid.
I'll pickout the carb after the cam decision is made. I really hate the thought of taking of the Ford 4300 carb but there isn't anyway to use that with the new setup.
If I can find an AOD that will be strong enough for this, I'm getting that otherwise I'm putting in a C4 with a 3000-3500 stall. Haven't decided on gears. Maybe something just under 4.11's. I might go with 4.11's if I get the AOD.
That will keep me out of trouble for awhile!
I'm looking to take it to the track ocassionally but mainy fun around town and a few 1-2 hr drives for shows in the area.
I'm willing to give up MPG and a bit of low-end performance to have more go when I do step into it.
Thanks for the caution on my selection. I'd rather error on the side of performance rather than maybe not gain as much power as I could. I hope I'm looking at this the right way.
If the intake doesn't work like I hope it will, I guess I can still swap that out with a double and write it off to experience. I just wish experience didn't always cost so much!!!
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