long tubes headers
08-04-2007, 04:32 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: illinois
Posts: 85
long tubes headers
can i do it? Got some jackstands, a tool box with wrenches, and and all winter long.Where will my headaches be?What headersdo Iget? And ifI take the correct steps will i still wish i had paid the 8 hours of labor?
08-04-2007, 07:29 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,028
RE: long tubes headers
Removing the old manifolds is as hard as getting the new parts on.
The best way is to remove the K-member so you can gain easier access to the nuts and bolts that hold the headers to the head.
USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE HEADER BOLTS TO THE HEAD.This way you won't have to post a question about how to find the ticking noise coming from a leaking header gasket.
The best way is to remove the K-member so you can gain easier access to the nuts and bolts that hold the headers to the head.
USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE HEADER BOLTS TO THE HEAD.This way you won't have to post a question about how to find the ticking noise coming from a leaking header gasket.
08-04-2007, 11:35 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: st clair shores MI
Posts: 6,028
RE: long tubes headers
is it a foxbody ?
it doesn't take that long at all to do long tubes.
there are 2 potential problems you might run into, so be prepared for either.
1) the most probable....the header will bump on the frame rail from the motor mount being old and weak
2) only seen it once on 5 cars (a buddies car not mine) you might need the flaming river steering knuckle to clear the tubes
now i always MAC, my buddy used bbk and had that problem on a '93 cobra, bbk is nicer than mac
while your in there, dump the smog and all the tubing that goes with it, you'll need to plug the back of the heads w/ thermactor plugs, they are a threaded insert like on the front of the heads. you will also need to plug the h-pipe where that y pipe ties into it.
after that you have a lot of room to work on everything
you need to raise the motor to get the lt's on, so you might as well replace the motor mounts w/ a set from a 'vert
pop the tranny out and might as well do a clutch and rear main while your at it.
once the new headers are on, it's easier to r&r the tranny in 2 pieces....first the bellhousing then the trans itself
since the trans will be out, might as well get a new shifter if you don't have one
drain the tranny and refill w/ synthetic atf, easiest way to fill is throught the shifter opening, 2 3/4 qts
it doesn't take that long at all to do long tubes.
there are 2 potential problems you might run into, so be prepared for either.
1) the most probable....the header will bump on the frame rail from the motor mount being old and weak
2) only seen it once on 5 cars (a buddies car not mine) you might need the flaming river steering knuckle to clear the tubes
now i always MAC, my buddy used bbk and had that problem on a '93 cobra, bbk is nicer than mac
while your in there, dump the smog and all the tubing that goes with it, you'll need to plug the back of the heads w/ thermactor plugs, they are a threaded insert like on the front of the heads. you will also need to plug the h-pipe where that y pipe ties into it.
after that you have a lot of room to work on everything
you need to raise the motor to get the lt's on, so you might as well replace the motor mounts w/ a set from a 'vert
pop the tranny out and might as well do a clutch and rear main while your at it.
once the new headers are on, it's easier to r&r the tranny in 2 pieces....first the bellhousing then the trans itself
since the trans will be out, might as well get a new shifter if you don't have one
drain the tranny and refill w/ synthetic atf, easiest way to fill is throught the shifter opening, 2 3/4 qts
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