reading codes
#12
RE: reading codes
i figured it out finially. got that light thing at pep boys. i first got code 11 (system ok) i was pretty mad cause i know there is something wrong so i cussed at my car and it gave me code 31 which is canister or egr valve control system. and then it repeated the two again. i also found a vacuum leak. in the first picture can some one show me what i have to replace?
the second shows the vacuum link
the 3rd shows the source of many headaches. i have lots of leaks there cause of the plastic pipes breaking. i want to know if i can bypass it with rubber vacuum lines or do i really need it. thanks guys
the second shows the vacuum link
the 3rd shows the source of many headaches. i have lots of leaks there cause of the plastic pipes breaking. i want to know if i can bypass it with rubber vacuum lines or do i really need it. thanks guys
#13
RE: reading codes
Told you it sounded like an EGR fault
I can't really tell from the pic but it's possible that the vac leak caused it. If thats a line to the EGR selinoid it could have triped the code. I would just clear the codes now and see what happens.
I would really need to be seeing the live data but if that doesn't work... It sounds like your getting a EGR position cuircut fault. That EGR valve unit that you have in the pic contains a pintle position sensor (the electrical part on the very top). Usualy what will happen is either the sensor will go bad and read the position of the valve incorrectly or the pintle will stick causing high sensor readings when the EGR isn't being comanded. this is VERY common on these type of motors. It's very simple to pull the valve off. Once you have it just look where it connected to the intake and you can see the pintle sticking out. If there is a gap it's sticking and needs to be replaced. You can also test the sensor with a multi meter. With the key on the valve position should be (trying to remember from memory) between 0.6-0.8 Volts. If I remember right the wire that you probe is the green one. Honestly if it was me I would get a new valve, position sensor and also clean the EGR pasageways. usualy on that type of motor the Throttle body comes off, then the EGR block comes off. If you seperate it like that you can then clean the passage really well.
I can't really tell from the pic but it's possible that the vac leak caused it. If thats a line to the EGR selinoid it could have triped the code. I would just clear the codes now and see what happens.
I would really need to be seeing the live data but if that doesn't work... It sounds like your getting a EGR position cuircut fault. That EGR valve unit that you have in the pic contains a pintle position sensor (the electrical part on the very top). Usualy what will happen is either the sensor will go bad and read the position of the valve incorrectly or the pintle will stick causing high sensor readings when the EGR isn't being comanded. this is VERY common on these type of motors. It's very simple to pull the valve off. Once you have it just look where it connected to the intake and you can see the pintle sticking out. If there is a gap it's sticking and needs to be replaced. You can also test the sensor with a multi meter. With the key on the valve position should be (trying to remember from memory) between 0.6-0.8 Volts. If I remember right the wire that you probe is the green one. Honestly if it was me I would get a new valve, position sensor and also clean the EGR pasageways. usualy on that type of motor the Throttle body comes off, then the EGR block comes off. If you seperate it like that you can then clean the passage really well.
#14
RE: reading codes
when you say clear the codes..you mean reset the computer right? by disconnecting the batter for 10 minutes? that vacuum line that fixed, went to the canaster i believe which is what the code mentioned as being a problem. i took it for a test drive and noticed an instant improvement with the vacuum leak gone. no check engine light yet
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