Here is the specs released by Ford for the 95 gt:

Output - SAE net Horsepower

Torque
215 hp @ 4200 rpm

285 ft-lb @ 3400 rpm

Induction System
Fuel Management


Air Intake



Fuel Pump (pressure)
60mm throttle body,
revised intake to clear hood similar to T-bird intake

Remote low-restriction air cleaner

Electric In-tank Pump, 39 psi

Camshaft

Type
I.O./I.C./Lift

E.O./E.C./Lift

Duration - Int/Exh

Valve Lift - Int./Exh. (1.6 rocker arm ratio)

Overlap

Firing Order
F4ZE-6250-DA

Steel cam, roller lift

20°/76°/0.278

67°/19°/0.278

276°/266°

0.444"/0.444"

39°

13726548

Camshaft Drive
Roller Chain

Piston
E7ZA-6110-CA
moly rings, hypereutectic pistons (9.0:1 cr)

Cylinder Head
E7TE-6049-AB

Water Pump (aluminum)
E6AE-8501-CA
Pump efficiency improved.
New 3.5" impeller and housing with exit scroll

Ignition Specs -

Spark Plug

Gap

Initial Timing

Centrifugal Advance

Vacuum Advance

Ignition Coil



ASF-42

0.052"-0.056"

10°BTC

Spark advance controlled by EEC-IV computer

Spark advance controlled by EEC-IV computer

90 millijoules output energy







Cylinder Block
E6SE-6010-DC
increased bore wall and deck material thickness.
Siamesed bores in water jackets (126 lbs.)

Exhaust - Exhaust Manifold
Manifold Gasket

Exhaust Inlet Pipe



Muffler / Tailpipe
Stainless Steel Tubular
E4ZE-9448-AA

"H" pipe
2.25" inlet, 2.25" outlet
Dual Inline Catalyst

Dual Exhaust (total system)
2.25" tube diameter

turned down tips - GT





Crankshaft
E1AE-6303-AA

Flywheel
Unbalance
E6ZR-6375-AA
50 oz-in.

Damper
Unbalance
E4TE-6316-AA
32 oz-in.


Nothing to be ashamed of, man! Newer cars are pushing out more power, but that's not what wins races!!! Again, driveability, control, and pride makes a mustang the best car on the road, bar none. Call you're pony pathetic again, I'm going to have to go over there and smack you....and then take away your awesome ride.

 

Damnit, it didn't come out right...let's try this:

Output - SAE net
Horsepower 215 hp @ 4200 rpm
Torque 285 ft-lb @ 3400 rpm

Induction System
Fuel Management
Air Intake
Fuel Pump (pressure) 60mm throttle body,
revised intake to clear hood similar to T-bird intake
Remote low-restriction air cleaner
Electric In-tank Pump, 39 psi
Camshaft
Type
I.O./I.C./Lift
E.O./E.C./Lift
Duration - Int/Exh
Valve Lift - Int./Exh. (1.6 rocker arm ratio)
Overlap
Firing Order F4ZE-6250-DA
Steel cam, roller lift
20°/76°/0.278
67°/19°/0.278
276°/266°
0.444"/0.444"
39°
13726548
Camshaft Drive Roller Chain
Piston E7ZA-6110-CA
moly rings, hypereutectic pistons (9.0:1 cr)
Cylinder Head E7TE-6049-AB
Water Pump (aluminum) E6AE-8501-CA
Pump efficiency improved.
New 3.5" impeller and housing with exit scroll
Ignition Specs -
Spark Plug
Gap
Initial Timing
Centrifugal Advance
Vacuum Advance
Ignition Coil
ASF-42
0.052"-0.056"
10°BTC
Spark advance controlled by EEC-IV computer
Spark advance controlled by EEC-IV computer
90 millijoules output energy





Cylinder Block E6SE-6010-DC
increased bore wall and deck material thickness.
Siamesed bores in water jackets (126 lbs.)
Exhaust - Exhaust Manifold
Manifold Gasket

Exhaust Inlet Pipe



Muffler / Tailpipe Stainless Steel Tubular
E4ZE-9448-AA

"H" pipe
2.25" inlet, 2.25" outlet
Dual Inline Catalyst

Dual Exhaust (total system)
2.25" tube diameter

turned down tips - GT



Crankshaft E1AE-6303-AA
Flywheel
Unbalance E6ZR-6375-AA
50 oz-in.
Damper
Unbalance E4TE-6316-AA
32 oz-in.

OK, that's a bit better. And also, 285 ft-lb of torque is much more than most 280hp cars have. It's torque that makes acceleration, not hp....Whatever, don't get hung up on the numbers--just ride.

 

Wow, thanks for all the specs..that helps me out a lot! The torque is nice, I always have been a fan of getting thrown back into the seat, plenty of that from my uncle's car. Don't worry you don't have to smack me, lol..i'm proud of it now, just that those stock 215 from such a big engine is like taking one sip of a two liter coke and throwing the rest out, its a waste..But, I got it runing hot now, so no need to fret over the old numbers..Thanks again for those specs.

 

Glad you're happy. And as for the notion that the big engine is pushing little power, that's not really true. I think maybe you're used to seeing 4-cylinder Honda and Toyota engines that are typically not more than 2.3 liters (less than half your size), and see them crank out 150+ horses. The difference is that their engines are much more compressed and rev a good deal more. The torque amount in those engines is usually much much lower than their total peak hp--meaning that given enough time to accelerate and get there, they can actually reach a good hp number.

The difference between horsepower and torque is important: hp is the amount of power you are cranking out, and torque is how fast you can put that power to the wheels. Those little hondas can rach 120 mph just like you can (although they may weigh considerably less)--the big difference is you'll be at 120 mph while they're still shifting from 3-4, at around 70 mph. Example: I raced a 2004 Acura TL last week--That car has 270 hp. About 50 more than me. I kicked its ***--flew by like it was standing still. Why? I'm actually heavier, driving an untuned automatic 96 gt convertible. So how the hell did I whizz by? My car has 280 foot pounds of torque. His little engine has a peak torque rating of 234 ft-pounds.

The lesson there then is: hp doesn't mean that much. It's just a peak power output reading. It's torque that actually gets you to that peak. There are very few cars on the road with your torque output. Enjoy it. Relish it. That's why you can kick their sorry little butts, and they can limp to 7-11 to buy the latest Super Street magazine.

 

Hey guys, I'm back..my friend bought a '95 stang a couple of days ago and surprised me with it..i took him for a ride in mine because he didn't know what mods to do to it..he now plans on getting a camshaft as his frist mod, and he wanted me to ask you guys a couple of questions for him:

1) What cam shaft do you guys recommend (websites, brand name, any info appreciated)
2) Will he need to change his lifters or rocker arms?

Oh and by the way..on my Stang..I changed the exhaust system.. it is now:

BBK Long tube Headers, BBK Shorty catalytic H, SLP cat back..
Why a catalytic H you ask? because I got custom "race pipes" made and can swap the cats for the "race pipes" and only have the cats for inspection purposeses. Install should be done tomorrow..I dropped it off at my Uncle's garage an hour ago and hes gonna work on it all day tomorrow..

 

the FRPP E303 cam is a nice upgrade and will pass emissions too. they are available damn near everywhere, places like Summit Racing, Jegs, e-bay etc. These sites will have all the specs on them and others too. he will not have to change the lifters or rocker arms either, but he should inspect his carefully for wear and tear and maybe consider buying new ones if the old ones have lots of miles on them.

 

Ok, thanks for the input, I spoke to him and he said he went to compcams.com and found some intense ones that are labeled as "rough idle" or "bumpy idle" and he wants one like that, would he then have to change the lifters or rocker arms..I told him that he probably would but you guys know more than me so I'm asking you guys..

PS- he is getting longtube headers and full exhaust to compliment the new cam

 

Most common mistake when picking a cam is to go too big, if the rest of your combination (ie heads and gears and lower end) are not right for a big cam you will go slower. Big cams need to be reved. Besides that picking one based on idle sound is just plain the wrong way to do things.

 

good point about going to big, but hes got the money to do everything needed, and he wants an aggressive, powerful cam. . he didn't mean just because the idle was rough he'd get it, he meant it that since the idle is roguh the thing must be friggin ballsy and do a lot for your engine and performance..

 

So he is going to tear down the motor, go with lightened internals, raise compression, get a set of really good heads, a big converter(if he's auto) and steep gears out back?Plus he will now have to worry about the piston tio valve clearance. Not to mention living without power breaks (he could get a vacume canister). Big cams also move the power curve up in the rpm band, so his low end torque will suffer, not to mention that there will be little useable power for street driving. He should call the tech line from whatever company he buying the cam from and they will help him pick the right cam for his application, thats thier job and they are there to help. Remember an engine is a system and the parts all need to work together for it to perform at its best, putting one big thing will not make the car fast.