94 5.0 HO Hard Starting
Hey All,
I've done some searching and couldn't find much on the type of problem that I'm having:
Car is a 1994 GT 5.0 HO w/ 122k mi. It starts every time but takes a HUGE amount of cranking. Cold it will crank for more than 12sec before firing off. After it's warmed up it starts faster, but it still needs a whopping 5-6sec of cranking time. Starter cranks strongly every time, just takes forever for the motor to start...
Any ideas on possible causes? I'm happy to answer any maintenance/tech questions that might be relevant.
Thanks!
I've done some searching and couldn't find much on the type of problem that I'm having:
Car is a 1994 GT 5.0 HO w/ 122k mi. It starts every time but takes a HUGE amount of cranking. Cold it will crank for more than 12sec before firing off. After it's warmed up it starts faster, but it still needs a whopping 5-6sec of cranking time. Starter cranks strongly every time, just takes forever for the motor to start...
Any ideas on possible causes? I'm happy to answer any maintenance/tech questions that might be relevant.
Thanks!
Hard start problems are usually due to either an electrical issue (bad battery/wires/connections, or a fuel pressure problem). Most common is a bad/weak battery or the terminals connecting to the battery are corroded and not making a good connection. Since you've replaced the battery (I assume with a new battery) and cleaned up the connections, I'd start looking into a fuel pressure problem.
When the car has been sitting for a while, if you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the Run position (the last 'click' before it tries to crank the motor) do you hear the fuel pump start up? If so, turn the key to the off position and then back to the run position and wait for the pump to stop. This will allow the pump to build up pressure in the fuel lines. Then try to start the car. Does it start easier? If so, then its a fuel pressure problem and you have a leak somewhere between the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. Its fairly simple to track down.
Most autoparts stores will rent fuel pressure gauges that you can attach to the zirk fitting on the fuel rail. Run a fuel pressure test and a leak down test. There are a ton of videos on YouTube about how to do a fuel pressure test. Its a fairly universal procedure. Make sure the fuel pressure is at the correct range and the needle isn't bouncing around a lot. Then turn the car off and see if the needle starts to drop fairly quickly. If it does, you have a fuel pressure leak somewhere. While the needle is dropping, take a set of pliers and pinch the flexible fuel-return line as close to the tank as you can get. If the needle stops dropping, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel pump. If the needle continues to fall, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel injectors.
btw, if it hasn't been done in a while, it may be a good idea to change the fuel filter. its cheap and easy to do and won't hurt.
Good luck...
When the car has been sitting for a while, if you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the Run position (the last 'click' before it tries to crank the motor) do you hear the fuel pump start up? If so, turn the key to the off position and then back to the run position and wait for the pump to stop. This will allow the pump to build up pressure in the fuel lines. Then try to start the car. Does it start easier? If so, then its a fuel pressure problem and you have a leak somewhere between the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. Its fairly simple to track down.
Most autoparts stores will rent fuel pressure gauges that you can attach to the zirk fitting on the fuel rail. Run a fuel pressure test and a leak down test. There are a ton of videos on YouTube about how to do a fuel pressure test. Its a fairly universal procedure. Make sure the fuel pressure is at the correct range and the needle isn't bouncing around a lot. Then turn the car off and see if the needle starts to drop fairly quickly. If it does, you have a fuel pressure leak somewhere. While the needle is dropping, take a set of pliers and pinch the flexible fuel-return line as close to the tank as you can get. If the needle stops dropping, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel pump. If the needle continues to fall, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel injectors.
btw, if it hasn't been done in a while, it may be a good idea to change the fuel filter. its cheap and easy to do and won't hurt.
Good luck...
I did check the resistance on the cables & it was fine (as in none).
Thanks petrock. Fuel filter probably hasn't been done for years. A FP test will be on the list in the near future for sure.
Funny thing I noticed today: The PO put a K&N air filter on & I was pulling it off today to clean it (it was filthy) and noticed that when it was converted the MAF was installed backwards (ie: airflow arrow pointing to the front of the car). When the K&N dries out I'll see if putting the MAF on the right way helps starting at all...
Thanks petrock. Fuel filter probably hasn't been done for years. A FP test will be on the list in the near future for sure.
Funny thing I noticed today: The PO put a K&N air filter on & I was pulling it off today to clean it (it was filthy) and noticed that when it was converted the MAF was installed backwards (ie: airflow arrow pointing to the front of the car). When the K&N dries out I'll see if putting the MAF on the right way helps starting at all...
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