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Replacement Transmission ?

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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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Default Replacement Transmission ?

Hey all, i recently blew the transmission on my 2007 mustang gt auto. I have a vortech supercharger and aluminum driveshaft on the car. im putting down about 450 hp to the wheels. what would be a good replacement? Im so far looking at the tci super street fighter transmission, the performance automatic transmission, seems to be cheapest but , or perhaps having level 10 build one for me. any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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oh also what stall converter speed would you guys recommend, this is a daily driver.
Old Mar 3, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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no one?
Old Mar 3, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Either one is a great upgrade, but I would lean more towards level 10. I planned on upgrading to a level 10 with my 08 Vortech Mustang GT putting 450/500whp when I had one. 3200 stall preferred! Possibly a 3500 depending on how tight the torque converter is. FTI makes great street friendly converters.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:33 PM
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To help you choose the best stall converter we need the following:
- Your cam specs. The cam will basically determine where your motor is making the most torque and what type of idle quality you will expect.
- Do you plan to run a trans-brake? If so you will need a converter with an anti-balloon plate and furnace brazed fins.
- Will you run slicks on the car at anytime? That will also determine your required stall speed and the use of an anti-balloon plate.
- Given that the motor is supercharged I would highly recommend you get the converter with the anti-balloon plate and furnace brazed fins, regardless to the answers you gave to the questions above.
- 3200 - 3500 stall speed, as someone above mentioned is just too much for a daily driven car. It will absolutely kill your mileage. The car will also feel funny when you are not hard on the gas. It will shift gears super quick, too. Not to mention the heat it will generate.
- I would order the transmission and converter from the same manufacturer. If one of the two components fail the manufacturer will be more likely to replace both of them if its their products. Remember, when a transmission fails it usually ruins the torque convert. If the converter fails it usually ruins the transmission.
- By all means don't forget to invest in a transmission cooler. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. A higher that stock stall speed will generate a ton more heat. Keep this fact in mind; the max ideal transmission temperature is 200 degrees. For every 20 degrees you go over that you cut the life span for the transmission by a factor of 2. At 220 the life is cut in half. A 240 the life is cut to a 1/4. At 260 the life is cut to 1/8th. You get the picture.

My vote for transmission and torque converter brand is TCI.

If you're wondering where my knowledge comes from, I worked for B&M Racing and Performance Products for over 11 years.

Please let us know if we (www.autopart-performance.com) can help you in any way. We pride ourselves on top notch technical support.

Last edited by AutoPart-Performance; Mar 7, 2013 at 03:39 PM. Reason: spelling :-)
Old Mar 9, 2013 | 06:15 AM
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My cams are stock. I purchased the tci super street fighter trans, and street fighter 3000 TV. Also the tc is a lockup tc and I read should not generate added heat is this correct?
Old Mar 9, 2013 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wildazme
My cams are stock. I purchased the tci super street fighter trans, and street fighter 3000 TV. Also the tc is a lockup tc and I read should not generate added heat is this correct?
correct, but you also have to make sure it's actually locking up. Just because you have a lock up tc does not mean it is. The transmission controller module is usually in charge of engaging lock up via the lock up clutch in the transmission.

You have a Vortech supercharger which needs to spin in order pretty high (3500) to get into the power band. From idle, the Vortech actually causes quite a lot of parasitic drain just needing to spin the usual front belt drive accessories as well as the blower to get into power. The reason I said a higher stall is needed is because you have to equate the drain of the vortech into the situation as well as what's needed to really push it and spool it.

Trust me, I been there. Nothing is more frustrating than slicks in the back and not having enough stall to get off the line with enough stall/force, despite having 450whp and 4.10 gears! It made for a weird power band since only half way down the track and way in the top end would the V3 be spooling the hardest. Despite trapping only 110-111 I'd be able to hit 135mph very quickly after the 1/4 mile mark. If the stall and launch had been in check, I predict a full second drop in my ET's. I sold the car soon after, but have proved my point in my present car. Stock times were 14.0/14.2 and now 12.8/12.9 with just a stall, valve body and High performance TCM. Not bad for a 4289 lb. car and no other power adders except for a cold air intake and 180 thermostat. I even ran it on stock street tires.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/stre...-best-lol.html

Not sure how the 5R55S controls lock up, in which gear and rpm but say you knew for sure it locked up in 2nd, you could go as high as 3500 and NOT effect daily driveability too much. I have had both a 3200 and a 3500 in my Charger (4289lbs. vs 3500 lbs. I know lol) and driveability in both stalls were not effected because of the TCM engaging lock up in 2nd gear, as well as both converters have a pretty low stall to torque rating.

Ditto on getting the right converter for your engine power/build etc. to match it up right with the type of power adder (heads/cam/blower/gear ratio)

It's a lot to post in a reply, but do your research in terms of torque converter builds companies etc. to get the right converter for your build

Last edited by stealth_GT; Mar 9, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
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