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’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h

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Old 01-20-2004, 03:05 PM
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badd_co
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h



I have 89 stang with a FI 2.3 . I am about to put a early 70's model 351w, '86 302 HO heads, 288 cam w/512 lift, 4" high riese intake, and a 750 dbl pumper. got a C6 trans being built right now for it. What i need help with is wiring, i have no clue what i need or what needs to be changed. I also need to know what rocker arms i can use. the amin problem with do this is i am on a very low budget. so any and all help here i would so very greatful. </P>


if any one needs more info just let me know what you need.</P>


thanks to all that reply</P>
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:05 PM
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TheGmKiller331
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h



Ok points or duraspark 2 ignition?</P>


The only thing you will need to wire up is the normal,starter,ignitition if duraspark 2,alternator and thats it.</P>


I have a 89 lx coupe that was a 2.3 and now has a 331 stroker in it and theres two main harnesses ones for the car itself for lights and everything else and the other is for the engine.The one on the passenger side is the motors it can be removed and scrapped.The one on the drivers side is the cars main you just need to hook up the battery for it to work.Thats it.</P>


</P>


My engine is completely independent of the car.I have the ignition on its own switch,and the starter is a push button style.In fact the only thing the key does is turns everything on inside like stereo what have you.</P>


That sounds like a nice setup you have going there.Its a junkyard style budget build and from what i see you wont be disappointed.That thing is going to haul ***!I just need to know what type of ignition you have so i can tell you how to go about its install and youre set!By the nice choice of tranny i run a C4 with stall and shift kit,intermediate bands and all its a nice tranny and has been rock solid.The C6 is like the C4 theyre BULLET PROOF!Anything shy of running it low on fluid or neutral drops and you wont kill that tranny!</P>
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Old 01-22-2004, 12:53 AM
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badd_co
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h



well thats the main problem i don't have anything yet as for the ignition system .thats what i need to find out. i have not clue to what all i need to get or how to wire it up. </P>


I can build engines all day long just not any good at installing them. I have done a few engine swaps before but it always was same for same never anything like this. so i am kinda lost. and i have never had to try and remove a computer from a car.</P>


hope you can help, thanks</P>
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Old 01-22-2004, 10:51 PM
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hotrodman
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h

Originally Posted by badd_co

well thats the main problem i don't have anything yet as for the ignition system .thats what i need to find out. i have not clue to what all i need to get or how to wire it up. </p>


I can build engines all day long just not any good at installing them. I have done a few engine swaps before but it always was same for same never anything like this. so i am kinda lost. and i have never had to try and remove a computer from a car.</p>


hope you can help, thanks</p>
i run a msd6A,box,or msd6AL with rev.limiter.you don't have to remove computer or harness,just unplug from under hood.
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Old 01-24-2004, 02:35 AM
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FastFoedBoy
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h

When we did the swap into mine we went with the ignition box and distributor out of an early 80s truck. I've since upgraded to MSD but for cost sake, that works.
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Old 01-24-2004, 04:54 AM
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TheGmKiller331
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Default ’89 w/2.3 to 351 wiring h



Well for ease and a good factory ignition i would go duraspark 2 they are good to about 400hp from what i gather.They are easily found in anything from late 70's to middle 80's.I suggest for ease of installation and to save any troubleshooting problems that you go with new parts.The ignition box is about 15.00 bucks and the distributor is about 45.00.</P>


As far as the swap its self its a simple drop in and go.Theres really nothing to it.The 4 cylinder mustang and the V8 mustang are identical.As far as parts go you need a double hump cross member for dual exhaust,motor mounts,driveshaft shortened,the 7.5 rear end will hold up as long as you dont run slicks,fuel pickup in the tank other than that youre set.</P>


If you arent using the computer or going with an efi setup all you need to do is UNPLUG not cut the motor and i have a label maker i use to label every connection.When the motor is out you will have a big wiring harness the disappears on the passenger side.Go inside and take the kick panel apart and you will see the ECU all you need to do then is unbolt it unplug it and then slide the harness out into the engine bay.The other main harness is the cars actual main harness which feeds the lights and such you will leave this one alone its on the drivers side. </P>


The only thing i can say to help your confidence is that if you can take the 2.3 out you can put the 5.0 in.When selecting motor mounts go with a set of 1993 convertible mounts they help to set the motor down a little lower and are of a solid design.Not too mention you will never find a descent set of motor stands in the junk yard and this way you wont need to since these are a solid design they have the stands made into them.</P>


Post any other questions you may have .</P>
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