REDUCING ENGINE HEAT
ORIGINAL: RodeoFlyer
a larger radiator will only take longer to heat up - it wont truly eliminate the problem. you need to move more air. that being said, the air from the engine compartment needs to get out, to allow more air in.
Prometheus has the best way - heat extracting or cowl hood.
I'd love to know how in the hell (let alone why) someone would wrap the factory manifolds. Have fun with that.
a larger radiator will only take longer to heat up - it wont truly eliminate the problem. you need to move more air. that being said, the air from the engine compartment needs to get out, to allow more air in.
Prometheus has the best way - heat extracting or cowl hood.
I'd love to know how in the hell (let alone why) someone would wrap the factory manifolds. Have fun with that.
ps: any word on when the ross mustang brake ducting will be available for sale :-)
Folks, heat soak happens after you shut the engine off. It is a by product from a normal operating engine. When you shut it off at operating temps, you suddenly have no water pump or fan working. The temps will spike sharply and then gradually cool down. No amount of wetter, or stat will make it go away. It is physics.
granted, althoughi'm interested in doingsomething to get the in-car temps down, whether it's 1) putting something on/over my headers 2) painting the underside above the exhaust with Black Velvet or 3) just going with koolmat/dynamat/second skin/etc. and i was sorta worried that the engine was extremely hot [under the hood, not on the gauge] now that the weather's warming up, but it sounds like that's just within the "normal" range for this car. first musclecar i've had, so it's good to know!
ORIGINAL: northy_polk
granted, althoughi'm interested in doingsomething to get the in-car temps down, whether it's 1) putting something on/over my headers 2) painting the underside above the exhaust with Black Velvet or 3) just going with koolmat/dynamat/second skin/etc. and i was sorta worried that the engine was extremely hot [under the hood, not on the gauge] now that the weather's warming up, but it sounds like that's just within the "normal" range for this car. first musclecar i've had, so it's good to know!
granted, althoughi'm interested in doingsomething to get the in-car temps down, whether it's 1) putting something on/over my headers 2) painting the underside above the exhaust with Black Velvet or 3) just going with koolmat/dynamat/second skin/etc. and i was sorta worried that the engine was extremely hot [under the hood, not on the gauge] now that the weather's warming up, but it sounds like that's just within the "normal" range for this car. first musclecar i've had, so it's good to know!
The only way to cut down on heat soak, is to not have the car to original specs on the operating temp. If it runs cooler because of a stat or wetter or other things, then heat soak won't be as high when it is shut down. Heat soakwould be starting at a lower temp. Doing this may add to loss of engine performance and/or add to deposits. They are designed to run at an optimum degree setting and I don't think that is negotiable.
that sounds reasonable. so maybe a cowl induction hood and some sort of barrier INSIDE the car would be adequate for my purposes.
but nobody has tackled the "foil wrapped intake" issue yet. not saying i'm going to do it. for one, why wouldn't the mfr suggest this or make them with some sort of heat reflective coating?
but nobody has tackled the "foil wrapped intake" issue yet. not saying i'm going to do it. for one, why wouldn't the mfr suggest this or make them with some sort of heat reflective coating?
ORIGINAL: northy_polk
that sounds reasonable. so maybe a cowl induction hood and some sort of barrier INSIDE the car would be adequate for my purposes.
but nobody has tackled the "foil wrapped intake" issue yet. not saying i'm going to do it. for one, why wouldn't the mfr suggest this or make them with some sort of heat reflective coating?
that sounds reasonable. so maybe a cowl induction hood and some sort of barrier INSIDE the car would be adequate for my purposes.
but nobody has tackled the "foil wrapped intake" issue yet. not saying i'm going to do it. for one, why wouldn't the mfr suggest this or make them with some sort of heat reflective coating?
Well, the stock air snorkle is ribbed. That adds more surface area than the smooth ones. Granted, it disturbes the air flow for less efficiency, but the "fins"MAY add to cooler intake air temps just like finned items on a motorcycle that is air cooled help disipate heat. Foil may act initially as a heat barrier, but it may actually trap heat in and allow for longer cool down cycles.
I don't recommend header wrap unless you want to buy new headers. I don't see you applying it to the stock header, but they are proven to reduce the life of aftermarket headers. The excessive heat also wears out cat converters prematurely. There are header "jackets" and "blankets" available that would be better than a wrap in terms of saving parts from premature degradation. They sort of just have draw strings that hold them in place.
i don't have stock headers. i've got the bbk chrome shorties. . . shoudl've sprung for the ceramic coated ones in hindsight. no big deal. yeah, i've seen those jackets/blankets . . . kinda ugly aren't they!? but if they do the trick.
here's what i was referring to re: the foil. it's STEEDA that I was thinking of: http://www.steeda.com/products/adhesive_heat_shield.php.
here's what i was referring to re: the foil. it's STEEDA that I was thinking of: http://www.steeda.com/products/adhesive_heat_shield.php.
ORIGINAL: RodeoFlyer
Yes they do dissipate more heat, meaning it takes longer to heat up. It was not misinforming. I deal with removing heat for a living and am educated in this area. FordFanBoy - a bigger oil pan and a trans cooler are different. Maybe you are one of the 99/100 people who buy hoods with scoops because they look cool and not for what they do. A bigger radiator will only help so much until you can move more air across it. You are only delaying the inevitable. I spend plenty of time at the track to prove it along with the education. I could explain it for you scientificly but I don't have the time and I wonder whether you have the ability to grasp it.
Yes they do dissipate more heat, meaning it takes longer to heat up. It was not misinforming. I deal with removing heat for a living and am educated in this area. FordFanBoy - a bigger oil pan and a trans cooler are different. Maybe you are one of the 99/100 people who buy hoods with scoops because they look cool and not for what they do. A bigger radiator will only help so much until you can move more air across it. You are only delaying the inevitable. I spend plenty of time at the track to prove it along with the education. I could explain it for you scientificly but I don't have the time and I wonder whether you have the ability to grasp it.
Guys who don't need a 3" cowl look like a damn ricer with it on their car and it makes me sick when guys throw out ridiculous uneeded mods so you sound cool to yourself. No way, no how this guy needs to worry about getting more air into his engine bay but you'll have him believe he needs to dump up to 2K on a new hood set-up to be safe.
I see you're a local boy. What track do you go to? Seems Irwindale is about your only option as LACR sucks, I am there almost every week. Since I can't grasp the knowledge of racing, why don't you line up next to me and see how you fair against my car with the stock hood/no scoop? I'm available this Thursday night for TNT?


