Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
#1
Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
Used the search function, but didn't really see any posts from anyone that has done BOTH an aluminum flywheel and aluminum driveshaft. A supercharger is at least a year off for me, but I need the instant gratification of a new mod or two. I'll be installing a stronger clutch at the same time just to save on the installation cost down the road. My car rarely sees the dragstrip, but it will hopefully be seeing some road course action. Anyone that has done both of these or has information about what I can expect, speak up! I almost went the stg. 3 cam route, but after seeing that gentleman's post about how it wasn't that great of a mod for the $ he spent on it, I'm a little gunshy about expensive mods now.
#2
RE: Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
i am having a dss aluminum ds and a fidanza aluminum flywheel installed right now. it is defanately worth the drop in rotating mass and increased accelaration. you should get 4.10 gears done as well.
#3
RE: Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
Negative on the 4.10 gears if you are planning on going to the road course. I'm actually switching to 3.27's because I run out of gear on the long straights with 3.55's. Grabbing 5th gear at 130+ is unwise.
The flywheel/driveshaft is the best power mod you can do for what you want. There are actually many things better than a supercharger that you can do. If you plan on doing road courses, you will have heat issues with a blower. You will quickly find that now you need a heat extracting hood of some kind, a bigger radiator, etc. You will also find that the money spent on the blower will pay for all the other stuff you want to have fun ona road course.
I run down C5's and even poorly driven C6's now and I only have a couple bolt-ons.
The flywheel/driveshaft is the best power mod you can do for what you want. There are actually many things better than a supercharger that you can do. If you plan on doing road courses, you will have heat issues with a blower. You will quickly find that now you need a heat extracting hood of some kind, a bigger radiator, etc. You will also find that the money spent on the blower will pay for all the other stuff you want to have fun ona road course.
I run down C5's and even poorly driven C6's now and I only have a couple bolt-ons.
#4
RE: Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
I have (for maybe another 24-48 hours) a single piece 14 lb aluminum driveshaft that came with the Currie rearend, and an aluminum flywheel that was installed with the spec+3 clutch. I can't honestly say what the benefit is. Certainly street driving doesn't seem any different and I've had a lot of track issues, so couldn't determine the benefit there either. I've sold both items nowand in fact, the entire 5 speed tranny. The new tranny comes with its own driveshaft and since it's clutchless, the spec clutch and alum flywheel had to go too.Immediate difference was noticed with the4.11 gears, on the other hand. Seems like a lot of the stuff that goes into the car is not necessarily go faster stuff, but just stronger, longer-lasting, or more efficient.
That last post is interesting. Seems like road racing requires a completely different setup and philosophy.
That last post is interesting. Seems like road racing requires a completely different setup and philosophy.
#6
RE: Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
I don't think Rodeo is saying 4.10's are a bad thing, just not good for road course racing..... I am more of a drag racer and plan on 4.10's for this. What is good for road course racing isn't necessarily goor for other types of racing.
#7
RE: Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft
^^^^^^^ he said it
4.10'a are great for around town and at the dragstrip, but bad at a road course. the only thing that drag racing and road racing share for the lost part is weight reduction. everything else is bass ackwards
4.10'a are great for around town and at the dragstrip, but bad at a road course. the only thing that drag racing and road racing share for the lost part is weight reduction. everything else is bass ackwards
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