so i have some questions:
1- do i need a custom tune?
2- if i do, where can i get it?
3- i want to get a zex or nx wet system with 100hp shot, with a window swich, purge and bottle heater. do i need something else?

BTW my car is bone stock 05 gt

 

you will need a tuner for 100 shot, because you need to pull out some timing. running 100 shot you will need some HT0 plugs.

 

I always say this, but, you should atleast get the "bare" bolt-ons before you even think of spray.

Personally the max I would ever want to run would be full-bolt ons, D/R's, suspension and a 75 shot of Zex. Mostly becaues the 75 shot doesn't require a tune and requires no colder spark plugs, but the 100+ needs both.

Don't get greedy either, you will regret it!

 

I agree with the above: no mods, keep it at 75shot and you'll likely be ok without a tune.

I saved the following from another thread. About $1500 total if you go with Zex. - John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++

Here is a list of the major nitrous accessories and their uses. Hope this answers some questions.

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. Most brands rate their kits with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.

2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air/nitrous vapor from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. There are nitrous pressure gauges that mounts to the bottle as well as in the cockpit of the vehicle.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Mechanical gauges will mount in the engine compartment and electrical gauges if you want it in the cockpit of your vehicle.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.

6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.

7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

8. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.

9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.

10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.[/align]

 

wow....nice comprehensive list!!! thanks!

 

1. no, unless you go over a 75 shot.
2. any reputable tuner; brenspeed can probably make you a good one.
3. nope, just the mounting equipment, that sounds like a pretty complete kit to me. i think maybe a WOT switch? or is that included with the window switch?

 

Sprayin 125 here, and there is several others here at that level & 150 shot.

The Zex & NOS kits work off of TP voltage, so you need no WOT switch for our cars. You program the NMU on the zex kit, which is what controls the solenoids opening. If you plan on going over 75 shot, go with the ZEX kit, as it includes the jets to go to 175HP level. The NOS only goes to 75(You can buy additional jets for a bigger shot.)

If you are gonna run a 75 shot, forget about it. Its not worth the time/money for the kit.

You really only get a good kick at 100-125hp levels IMO.

Deffinetely get the Zex racers kit--includes the purge, bottle pressure guage, heater, blow down tube. Retails for $330, but I got mine from an e-bay dealer for $260 shipped, so look around.

Get the Zex traction control device--you can select the gear you spray, and which rpm you spray--min & max i'm at 3200 min & 6200 max in 2,3,4 gear only.

Get HT0 plugs for 100shot +
You'll be borderline on the stock fuel system at 150+ which is why I stayed at the 125 hp level.

Get a nice switchplate for you accessories & "go" switch. Mounted mine in the center console.

I'm running Brenspeed tunes myself, and have had no problems whatsoever.


Last but not least, have fun & be safe!