ORIGINAL: Simon1

From someone with the STS kit, I can chime in on "lag" from the kit. You can't say lag is non-existant on a turbo system because you can never get rid of it. You can reducelag with proper sizing of turbos, reducing the length of piping from the motor to the turbo, and by keeping the exhaust gases as hot as possible, which keeps them moving faster, to get the turbo to spool faster. IfI had to estimate how long it took for the turbo to spool, it's so fast it's hard to tell. I would have toput it somewhere between the power band of a twin screw and a centri blower. I haven't been in a twin screw powered car,but I will take it at everyone's word how fast the power comes on. The centri's are ok.

As far as for size of piping. The most important thing, with the air moving through the exhaust pipe, is the velocity it travels at for turbo spooling. The larger it gets the slower the exhaust gases and the less back pressure you get. This isn't always the case but they way they have it set up, it works great. Now smaller isn't always bad, but bigger isn't always better. Turbosneed back pressure to perform properly. The STS kit attempts to give the best of both worlds. They keep exhaust gases moving at a rapid pace by ceramic coating all of the piping, keeping heat in the exhaust portions and heat out of the intake air including the piping in the engine bay. Heated air continues to expand which causes it to move faster and faster down the exhaust piping.

My kit is the single and the 2800 rpm range I saw earlier,that's dead on for when the power just begins to scream. Twin obviuosly would be better than a single, but not always within the means of most of us.

Before making accusations of the lag in the kit or guessing what it does, talk to the owner that have the kits and see what they say. I have ridden in a single kit with STS that later was turned into a twin and also my car. I couldn't tell the difference between the single and twin except for being alot louder.

Compare the power graphs of some other turbo kits and see the differences. From the ones I've seen, the power comes on within a few hundred RPM's on all the turbo kits.

Having the trubo as close to the engine as possible is obviously the best case scenario. But just because something is different, doesn't mean it's wrong or bad.

ORIGINAL: Simon1

I would have to agree. It seems like you refer to setups trying to make bigger powerthan what most of us are going to make on a stock motor.

Now the electric cutouts is interseting. I'm assuming the purpose of these is to block intake air at the starting line, building boost, so when the brake or clutch is let out, the turbo is already making boost? Funny you mentioned that since yesterday while driving, I was day dreaming about how to build boost while the engine isn't loaded. I was thinking of something simliar to what our CMCV are in our intake manifolds, only in line with the turbo to the intercooler. Letting a little bit of high velocity air by the valve while creating pressure against the turbo, hence building boost.

Am I talking out my butt or does that make sense? Not my idea exactly but the threory?

ORIGINAL: Simon1

I read it, it just seemed like common knowledge to me so I didn't comment on that specific portion.

I guess the cut outs wouldn't apply for me since there is only 8-10" of piping from the turbo to the back of the car.

I remember reading somewhere that there was something you could do to build boost while at the line, prior to launching, in a stick car. Am I crazy or can it be done?

ORIGINAL: Simon1

Very interesting. Thanks.

If I rev to 2500-300 and then almost side step the clutch, it reaches full boost pretty quick.

I thinking I will hook a little better off the line without the "shock" given to the tires from the N2O. Guess I won't know till I go to the track.