Muffstain76

Just an added note:...I told my wife if she hits it big on the Lotto,..the car will not have a paint job,..it will be gold plated,...WOULDN'T THAT BE DIFFERENT????

roundman

sounds like you might be retired like me! if so, welcome to the ranks! if not, welcome anyway. sounds like you got all the skills I never was able to acquire and you can definitely use all of them in customizing your Stang. If you've never seen it, you might want to check out Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, they have the best tech for hot Fords I've seen in the last few years. They have a web site where you can check them out and subscribe too. When they test something, they flog the living s**t out of it so if they say it works, you can take that to the bank! The editors have seen and done a lot and know a lot of the pitfalls that could trip you up on your project, so check them out as a resource. They just finished a series on testing heads for both flow and power on the dyno that is very informative. AFR heads got good ratings but there are lots of others out there too. Be aware that some heads have raised exhaust ports that your new headers may not fit, so do your homework so you don't have to buy a second set. With your planned mods, you got the right size the first time, that's for sure! If I could weld, first thing I would do is reinforce the torque boxes for the control bars on the rear end. With the power you plan, this is definitely a weak link that needs attention. Keep us posted on your progress and if we can help with anything, just let us know!

Muffstain76

No,..I am not retired,..but I work with these skills at my job,..that's why I am proficient at them. I work four, ten hour days and have three days off to work on my project. The cracker box house I own only has a 20x20 garage which is too small to park the Grand Marquis , or the Truck in. They are both 18.5+ feet long which as you can tell just won't fit. The Mustang however, has a nice little home in that space.

However I must admit, the first step of my project is being done at my dad's. His garage is 30x40, and I had both 88 and 91 Stangs in there side by side to swap parts.

I really was going to post some pics but My pics are 270-300K, I am working on compressing them so they will show up here. Hopefully they will be seen soon

Justin

roundman

how I wish I had even a 20x20 garage! try working on your car in a race car trailer where you have to climb in the hatchback because you can't open the doors enough to get in the front seat! and then, jack up the car to change the motor mounts with the hood propped open and bust out the flourescent light bulbs in the ceiling, boy was that a f**king mess! only did that once though, learned my lesson the hard way. four tens beats the hell out of a seven day rotating shift which is what most had to work where I did before I retired. the old work 7, off two, work 7, off 2 and work 7, off 3 was a bear when I had to do it, but I got off shift a long time before I retired so I was lucky. good thing I have a friend who built a 50 x 60 garage! he even has a lift in it, so anytime I need to do anything major, I can always go down to his place. he has 5 acres out in the country and built the garage to house his race car trailer, his tractor, etc and have plenty of room to work on anything he wants. his 42' gooseneck trailer with the dually truck just did fit in the long bay he made for it on one side of the garage. that is until he went out and bought a new '03 Ford F350 crew cab diesel truck and now the whole rig is too long to get it all in!

Muffstain76

Well,..The long tubes are in and the whole exhaust is bolted up. BAD thing is the tailpipe on the right side sticks out 1" farther than the left,..Where did I go wrong??

The headers not only had to be modded to fit the shifter bracket on the AOD but they also had to be dented to clear the steering knuckle. I am so glad I got 1-3/4" cuz now they're probably no more than 1-5/8". I couldn't believe BBK couldn't get it right. All Mustangs have steering knuckles,..to my knowledge none are different. How could this be? Any suggestions? I thought of loosening the motor mount nuts and lifting the engine on the L/h side and tightening them back. What do you all think??
And Thanks
Justin

roundman

my engine moved up about an inch overall when I installed the solid motor mounts from Moroso. you might want to try these to get the engine up permanently. I had a similar problem with my MAC shorty headers hitting the steering shaft and had to dent the headers a bit too, but then the clearance opened up some with the solid motor mounts. as far as the pipes sticking out goes, maybe there was a burr on one of the pipes that didn't let it go all the way into the connection properly or maybe you just need to use that old BFH to persuade the pipes to fit. if all else fails, pull the pipe and shorten the offending section so it slides in far enough that the tailpipe don't stick out that 1" you mentioned. didn't you just hate those damn rubber hangers? i found it a pain in the *** to get the old ones loose and the new ones to go in even with liquid soap on them, but then again I did mine with the car up on jackstands in my backyard, so I didn't have room to persuade things like I would have on my friends lift, but he hadn't built the garage when I did my exhaust. i think all these companies try hard to make their stuff fit but no two cars are really exactly alike and there's always some room for interferences sometimes. I don't recall ever seeing an add for long tube headers that said they would fit an AOD, most say exactly the opposite, that's one reason I never bought any myself.

Muffstain76

Well,..I have decided to space the motor up on the left side with a couple washers inbetween the mount and the motor and the mount and the K-member. The fix for the tail pipe was not as easy as you were thinking,.you see all the pipes bolt together "ball and socket" style. There are NO clamps on the entire system. The fix is simple, DAD's Radial Arm SAW with a metal cutting composite blade. At a fourty-five it should be just fine. And yeah the rubbers suck, even after slapping some moly lube on them, in them and on the hanger rods. Now my last point of functionality, the wipers don't work. I plugged in the other motor from the 91 and still no go... I guess I forgot to plug something in when I swapped out the under dash harness,..I'll figure it out but I will probably never use the wipers, I won't be driving it in the rain,..Unless I get stuck and it miraculously starts raining.

Last point of interest,..what size fuel injectors do you think I should use for the 347 with the nitrous? I got the HP/16 gives about 30 but I just think that is too low,..Or the engine I'm building will be a 550hp engine.

What HP would you expect to get out of what I am building? With and without nitrous?

roundman

that's interesting. my system had slip fit pipes after the ball and socket at the H-pipe, so that's why I thought you could just shorten one. different strokes for different folks I guess, not all manufacturers have to do things the same way. can't really advise on the HP question but I can suggest you call the Ford tech line at 586-468-1356 and they can probably give you a good estimate. I'm sure they will need to know things like bore and stroke, compression ratio, cam specs, head specs, gears, etc. in order to figure it out and they could definitely help on sizing the injectors. I do know you want to have plenty of fuel available for nitrous so the motor doesn't go lean on you and burn up the pistons! you probably need a bigger fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to make sure the fuel system is up to the task! a custom chip in the ECU might also be required too. good luck with your project!