PAULYSS

Hello All,</P>


Came here to get some advice. I have recently aquired an 86 Mustang GT (5-speed) that in general is in good shape for the year. The flaws currently are:</P>


1) Rear Main Seal leak (bigtime)</P>


2)Passenger seat mount(s) are broke</P>


3)Crappy tint job that is bubbling up like nuts</P>


4)Recent paint job has some bubbling on the back hatch</P>


On the positive:</P>


1)Had a fresh paint job 3 years ago (see above)</P>


2)flowmasters+ k&amp;N</P>


3)Aftermarket headers that I cannot identify</P>


4)Hurst shifter and manual tranny</P>


The biggest thing that is needing fixing is the oil leak. Here is where I require your help. I really dont feel like doing the work myself but can if necessary. I have been calling around and have been quoted $450 + depending on where I go and what else they find wrong. </P>


Is changing the seal a big deal for a "lazy" tree mechanic? Or is the quoted pricing accurate. Or if someone is in the Northern Illinois area that might no a good shop I am all ears.</P>


It is driveable but once the oil starts running on the exhaust it can create quite the smoke show.</P>


I love driving it though. I think somone changed the gears in that thing because traction is a major issue. Back end is very..Very Goosey. </P>


Thanks in advance.</P>


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vfast

welcome to the forum..those 1st 2 problems are natural for the car...with beening just a big leak leads me to believe there has to be oil on the clutch if so then replace the clutch and while there at it put in the seal. should be the same labor charge..

USAMuscle

Hey dude...about your rear main seal problem, replacing the rear main seal involves dropping the oil pan and removing the main caps, followed by the crankshaft. It's not hard at all, just takes a little time. The rear main seal is almost always the culprit for oil leaks. You could save yourself quite a bit of money if you're willing to invest the time it takes to replace it yourself, because you will only have to pay for a seal (should be about $30-$40 depending on where you get it) and you should replace the oil pan gasket while you're under there. All together parts won't cost more than $100, so compare that to the price the shops quoted you...Also be aware you will need a torque wrench to reinstall the main caps because they MUST be torqued according to factory specs if you want your engine to live a long, healthy life. I would only recommend doing this yourself if you have some experience with engine internals, and thoroughly understand the process.</P>


Out of curiosity, where was it painted? Do you know if it was painted basecoat/clearcoat or single stage? If it was single stage, then it's just crappy paint, and the bubbling is only the beginning ofyour problems. Otherwise, whoever painted it didn't do it right, because basecoat/clearcoat applications are very durable, and will last you a long time if done right. Bubbling can be caused by a number of things, such as rust spots if the substrate (base metal) wasn't treated properly or primed effectively, or it could be adhesion problems if the undercoat wasn't sanded properly, or possibly they used incompatible products when they painted it to cut costs. You can take a screwdriver or anything of the like and poke at the bubbles to check if it's rust...if it's rusted out, the screwdriver will puncture the panel. Either way it will only get worse, and you will have to have the car re-sprayed to eliminate the problem.</P>


Good luck dude and welcome!</P><edited><editID>USAMuscle</editID><editDate>37915.8745601852</editDate></edited>

PAULYSS

The car actually had been sitting for nearly 3 years outside uncovered (undriven)and unwashed. I suspect that to be one of the reasons for the paint.</P>


Now thinking about it I will probably have the seal done proffesionaly. This way I can blame someone else if it gets screwed up.<IMG src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0"></P>


</P>


Should be a pretty clean car when I get through with it!</P>

Buzzstang

Pauly you dont have to do all of that stuff usa muscle said. all you would have to do is drop the tranny and remove your clutch and then the flywheel. and there is your rear main seal. the little round seal around your crank. no need to remove the oil pan and crank. you wont even need to mess with the motor execpt for removing the flywheel and that is simple. i would go ahead and replace the clutch because of the oil saturation problem.It wouldnt last much longer. at the most 2.5 hours should get it done give or take. simple job that can be done with basic hand tools

PAULYSS

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Thanks, still up in the air on the situation. The car is actually my wifes dads car. He is a bit "tied" up right now and asked that we sell it because he needs the money. He is asking $4000 for it which is way overpriced for its current condition. I would rather keep the car and just fix what needs to be fixed and then drive it as a daily driver. I know I would have lots-o-fun cruising around in it. Right now I am driving my SS around and I am trying to keep the mileage down on it.</P>


So I will see what he wants to do. If I hang on to it you will be seeing me around here alot asking about modding it. Take care all....</P>