DreamerGT

From my understanding higher oil temps and the beating the oil takes going through the blower, will cause it to shear down. Not a big issue but I would step up a grade or two.

cliffyk

This is why I stay out of oil discussions--I will make one comment however...

Full synthetic motor oils are without doubt superior to dino, and non-"true synthetic", oils--however that level of superiority is irrelevant as it is not needed to properly lubricate an automobile engine, IF the lubricant is kept clean and undamaged (overheating. contaminated, etc.).

Over the years I have run numerous vehicles to well over 250k miles on dino oil changed every 2500 to 3000 miles. I run synthetic (Pennzoil Ultra) in my GT, also changed at 2.5 to 3k, but mostly because I can get it and a Motorcraft filter for $25 or so at Walmart.

Supercharged99

sorry for the short answer i was at work. i drive mostlt highway and wanna change my oil around 3-3500 sir

Unleashedbeast

This is a false statement, very much so when considering that all API SM/SN certified lubricants have very low amounts of ZDDP content. Everything you find on the "over the counter" shelf as other are calling it, will have very low amounts of ZDDP. ZDDP content has been proven to protect an engines internals far superior to any of the oils mentioned previously, even at your low 3,000 mile oil change intervals. This is why another poster in this thread is seeing UOA results that are better with a group IV true synthetic (API SL rated) at 10,000 mile oil change intervals than a group III (API SM/SM) "fake" synthetic at 3,000 mile change intervals.

Sure, your engine made the 250K miles with ease on dino oils, but let's tear it apart and compare it to the internals of an engine ran 250K miles on a true group IV synthetic lubricant.

There will be no comparison.

Also, the reason to run a grade up is due to shearing. Your forced induction application is much better suited for 5W-30 than 5W-20. Do not fall for the 5W-20 oil recommendation from Ford. That was only due to CAFE laws, and their profits. Trust me, your engine is much better protected on 5W-30. Read the link below for a better explanation of CAFE laws.

Increased oil weight, and MPG improved, Possible?

Supercharged99

5w30 year round? or 5w40 during summer?

MU71L4710N

well...thats your god given right. if your eyeball scanning of a cut open oil filter is as good a judgement of oil quality to you as a chemical analysis, then keep doing what your doing.

all im saying is personally, i would much rather use oil that has PROVEN protection than buy some shelf brand and have to cut the filter open every 3 months with some sort of small expectation that things are going bad. i'm no rocket scientist but if you really trusted the oil you were putting in your car, you wouldnt be doing that. i cant say ive ever cut open a single oil filter looking for "stuff".

since you never mentioned or i just cant remember, what oil do you use?



why 2.5k miles on pennzoil ultra? i was running amsoil till my last oil change (unexpected trip came up) and i bought some pennzoil ultra at walmart my first night gone. literally knew nothing about it until i googled it on my phone, i cant even tell you what the true group of the oil is at this point i read so much sketchy information about it because pennzoil wont even release the full details, but best i can tell its a 40-50% group iv/iii blend depending on which weight you buy. all UOA's i saw were from 7k mile OCI's and returned perfect results, and were even reccomended to run longer drain intervals. amsoil is going back in when i pop 7000 miles on this stuff just because i am more familiar with it.

pennzoil guarantees ultra on their 500k mile warranty to protect however much the manufacturer reccomends for an OCI (which some cars is 7500 miles, some its 3000 miles). they even said if your OEM specs were to change oil at 12-15k miles, they will honor their warranty if the oil was changed at that frequency.

uberstang1

When I am checking the oil filters it has nothing to do with my trust in oil. I scan oil filters to check for the beginning signs of engine failure, failure due to mileage, abuse, wear and tear etc etc not because im checking to see if its going bad due to oil brands or quality. A good example was my ranger which was mainly an offroad vehicle that saw ALOT of abuse and stressfull drivetrain situations. I had a 347 in it with about 6k of engine work which I also changed on a regular basis on one oil change I found a large amount of metal in the filter which turned out to be material from 3 rod bearings, the crank was pulled checked and new bearings installed. Quite possible if I let that go for another 6k miles I could of been putting a new motor in if a rod went flying outside the block wall. Also, I ran royal purple in that engine. As far as my mustang goes I ran synpower for awhile and now im on a pan of ultra. Its changed every 3 months except for winter because it sits int he garage for a few months. Doing my oil change there could be anywhere from 300-1500 miles on the old oil.

uberstang1

Before I even finish this post I just want to state im not trying to bash group IV oils in any way shape or form I understand they are a better oil. But my question is if you have two motors that made it to 250k miles and failed, and one had group IV and one had a "fake" synthetic and you tore the motors down and the group IV looked cleaner and what not what really is the point if they both only made it to 250k?

Unleashedbeast

Ultra is a group III, and they openly admit it, even though I don't agree with their reasons to do so. Bottom line, it's cheaper to buy, and they make more money on it than a true 100% group IV PAO.

The below quote is taken directly from BITOG forums from their "ask Pennzoil" section.

Ask Pennzoil

I've heard others say that a group III keeps contaminants in suspension better than group IV. This helps get the dirty stuff to the filter easier. Although, if that was true....why does a group IV synthetic clean so well?

The point is, and not assuming broke down engines, I'm talking about engines that are still running.

While your dino oil engine @ 250K miles is needing a refresh, the group IV PAO engine @ 250K miles will still have plenty of life left in it. I've seen this before, and will continue to see it again.

ShadyNinja

not to mention all the benefits of using a better grade of oil
less frequent maint.
better fuel economy,
heck in my brothers focus he gained 2mpg, That alone makes it worth it for him.