oil question
#31
I just want to point out that Oil filters are more important than the oil, if you don't have clean oil what the use of buying expensive synthetics?
Many newer Fords specify a Motorcraft FL820S Oil Filter for the engine. Is this the best filter for the job?? Inquiring minds want to know (or at least I do).
Group 1 (My personal favorites)
Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820
Motorcraft FL-820S
Royal Purple
Purolator PureOne PL24651
K&N HP-2010
Group 2 (Filters I might use)
Fleetguard LF16002
Denso 150-1014
Amsoil Ea011
Wix 51372
Mobil 1 M1-210
Group 3 (Filters I'd rather not use)
Donaldson P550965
Motorcraft MFL-820
Bosch 3410
Purolator Premium Plus L24651
Fleetguard LF3681
Hastings LF110 (aka Baldwin B329 / Casite CF-110)
Group 4 (Filters I won't use)
Pro-Tec 159
Pep Boys ProLine PPL-24651
C.G.Enterprises Viper 2 Oil Filter
Advance Auto Totalgrip AA2
Fram TG2
Fram PH2
Walmart ST2
STP S2
ACDelco PF1250
I found the same results at Bob is the Oil Guy and the Oil Bible sites,
Motorcraft is Superior to Mobil 1..
The Following are specs of four of the most popular Filters for the Mustang, I decided to put them to the test
Many newer Fords specify a Motorcraft FL820S Oil Filter for the engine. Is this the best filter for the job?? Inquiring minds want to know (or at least I do).
Group 1 (My personal favorites)
Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820
Motorcraft FL-820S
Royal Purple
Purolator PureOne PL24651
K&N HP-2010
Group 2 (Filters I might use)
Fleetguard LF16002
Denso 150-1014
Amsoil Ea011
Wix 51372
Mobil 1 M1-210
Group 3 (Filters I'd rather not use)
Donaldson P550965
Motorcraft MFL-820
Bosch 3410
Purolator Premium Plus L24651
Fleetguard LF3681
Hastings LF110 (aka Baldwin B329 / Casite CF-110)
Group 4 (Filters I won't use)
Pro-Tec 159
Pep Boys ProLine PPL-24651
C.G.Enterprises Viper 2 Oil Filter
Advance Auto Totalgrip AA2
Fram TG2
Fram PH2
Walmart ST2
STP S2
ACDelco PF1250
I found the same results at Bob is the Oil Guy and the Oil Bible sites,
Motorcraft is Superior to Mobil 1..
The Following are specs of four of the most popular Filters for the Mustang, I decided to put them to the test
Last edited by 2k05gt; 11-19-2010 at 11:22 PM.
#32
Royal Purple and Mobil 1 Filters are made by Champian Labs and are constructed very simular
Royal Purple (20-820)
Measurements
and has the highest Micron Filtration rating 20um 99.5% Efficiency 8 Micron Rating overall, Stronger Case 300PSI and More Media that Mobil 1
100% synthetic micro-glass wire backed media and has a 12,000 mile extended drain rating for use with 100% Synthetic Oil.
MOBIL 1 (M1-210)
Measurements
Motorcraft Filters are built at
Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements
Is a Cheap Alternative Pure one Filter with better construction and internal parts and the Valve is located
in the base where Ford Recommends for the 3 and 4 Valve engines.
Ford Racing (CM-6731-FL820)
Measurements
Royal Purple (20-820)
Measurements
- Filter Weight - 17.2 oz
- Overall OD - 3.68"
- Overall Height - 3.85"
- Can Material - 0.03" thick steel
- Filter Element OD - 3.40"
- Filter Element Height - 2.80"
- Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
- Number of pleats - 72 + 1 joint
- Depth of pleats - 0.75"
- Media length (unrolled) - 100.0"
- Media width (glue not included) - 2.0"
- Media thickness - 0.030"
- Total media surface area - 265 sq. in.
- Total media volume - 8.0 cu. in.
- Inner Filter Support Material - 0.020" Thick Perforated Steel
- Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
- Indentifying marks
Top Can- 111408H1 / Product of USA / Producto De EUA
Base - ZZ - Gasket Retention - Press Fit
- Thread - M22 -1.5
- Relief Valve Location - dome end
- ADBV Material - Nitrile Rubber (purple)
- Gasket includes lubricant
and has the highest Micron Filtration rating 20um 99.5% Efficiency 8 Micron Rating overall, Stronger Case 300PSI and More Media that Mobil 1
100% synthetic micro-glass wire backed media and has a 12,000 mile extended drain rating for use with 100% Synthetic Oil.
MOBIL 1 (M1-210)
Measurements
- Filter Weight - 16.8 oz
- Overall OD - 3.67"
- Overall Height - 3.71"
- Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
- Filter Element OD - 3.36"
- Filter Element Height - 2.57"
- Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
- Number of pleats - 55 + 1 joint
- Depth of pleats - 0.72"
- Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"
- Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"
- Media thickness - 0.030"
- Total media surface area - 187 sq. in.
- Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.
- Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel
- Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
- Indentifying marks
Can - 06190602 / Product of USA
ADBV - AAX / 40
Base - ZZ - Gasket Retention - Press Fit
- Thread - M22 -1.5
- Relief Valve Location - dome end
- ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
- Gasket includes lubricant
Motorcraft Filters are built at
Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements
- Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
- Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
- Overall Height - 4.05"
- Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
- Filter Element OD - 3.25"
- Filter Element Height - 2.51"
- Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
- Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
- Depth of pleats - 0.68"
- Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
- Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
- Media thickness - 0.035"
- Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
- Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
- Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
- Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
- Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150 - Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
- Thread - M22-1.5
- Relief Valve Location - base end
- ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
Is a Cheap Alternative Pure one Filter with better construction and internal parts and the Valve is located
in the base where Ford Recommends for the 3 and 4 Valve engines.
Ford Racing (CM-6731-FL820)
Measurements
- Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
- Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
- Overall Height - 3.99"
- Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
- Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
- Filter Element Height - 2.81"
- Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
- Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
- Depth of pleats - 0.73"
- Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
- Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
- Media thickness - 0.029"
- Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
- Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
- Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
- Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
- Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM - Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
- Thread - M22-1.5
- Relief Valve Location - base end
- ADBV Material - Silicon
Last edited by 2k05gt; 11-19-2010 at 11:32 PM.
#35
If you are talking about "All Out Contaminate Removal"
I would rank the Royal Purple just below the Amsoil oil filter
Royal Purple Oil Filter
with 99% filtration efficiency at 25 microns.
Amsoil Oil Filter
EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns
Data copied and pasted from each company's website.
its splitting hairs but just thought you should know.
I would rank the Royal Purple just below the Amsoil oil filter
Royal Purple Oil Filter
with 99% filtration efficiency at 25 microns.
Amsoil Oil Filter
EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns
Data copied and pasted from each company's website.
its splitting hairs but just thought you should know.
#36
The AMSOIL EaO11 oil filter is by far the most advanced oil filter ever manufactured in the world, hands down. The state of the art patented nano-fiber synthetic media is able to filter down to 15 microns yet still flow as well as the best of them. This is one filter that can take any crap out of your oil and still flow as much than the most free flowing filters on the market.
I won't use anything else.
I won't use anything else.
#37
This is a false statement, very much so when considering that all API SM/SN certified lubricants have very low amounts of ZDDP content. Everything you find on the "over the counter" shelf as other are calling it, will have very low amounts of ZDDP. ZDDP content has been proven to protect an engines internals far superior to any of the oils mentioned previously ...
Then there's the UOA issue. Metal readings in used oil analyses are meaningless unless they're over 100ppm. A UOA tells you the condition of the oil, not the engine.
And, while I'm being controversial, Group IV oil formulations are not superior to Group III formulations, except for (again) a few cases. The main difference between Gr IV and Gr III is oxidative stability. The "dirty little secret" of Gr IV basestocks is that they don't dissolve additives properly, making it necessary to blend in a shot Gr I or Gr 2 (low-end-conventional) basestock so the additives will stay dissolved. Gr IV with Gr II blended in is no more "pure" than a Gr III.
The special cases where Gr IV is superior to Gr III are the Gr IV/V blends that are pure racing oils. They're not recommended (by any of the manufacturers that make them including Redline) for use on the street. They do have superior film strength and they don't shear under heavy load, but they're not a solution for your daily driver.
Last edited by JAJ; 11-21-2010 at 12:33 AM.
#38
Arguing that an SL oil with ZDDP is better than SM/SN oil is like arguing that fiberglass is superior to carbon fiber because it contains "real glass". ZDDP certainly works, but it's pretty much obsolete except for a few engine designs that are also obsolete. Modern anti-wear and anti-oxidant additives are organic and have no metallic signatures. The absence of zinc and phosporus in an engine oil doesn't signify "weak", it signifies "upgraded"
Ummm, yeah....try convincing that to someone who has SEEN first person what the new Mobil 1 API SM formulation are doing to the camshafts in a "modern" 3V Ford modular engine. Try to convince those who switched back to an API SL formulation noticed decreased ppm of wear metals in their UOAs. Try convincing AMSOIL, Red Line, and Royal Purple of this also.
Your argument is laughable to say the least. The new "replacement" additives are FAIL, and if they weren't, the aforementioned companies would have jumped on the bandwagon and began using the "upgraded" additive you hold so highly. Seriously, stop reading things at BITOG and believing that everything over there is fact, and that everyone who posts there are experts.
WOW! Can I have some of the drugs you pour into the kool aid you are drinking?
The "dirty little secret" of Gr IV basestocks is that they don't dissolve additives properly, making it necessary to blend in a shot Gr I or Gr 2 (low-end-conventional) basestock so the additives will stay dissolved. Gr IV with Gr II blended in is no more "pure" than a Gr III.
The special cases where Gr IV is superior to Gr III are the Gr IV/V blends that are pure racing oils. They're not recommended (by any of the manufacturers that make them including Redline) for use on the street. They do have superior film strength and they don't shear under heavy load, but they're not a solution for your daily driver.
I'm really rolling my eyes at you this time. Go back to BITOG and dig up more BS to call fact.
Last edited by Unleashedbeast; 11-21-2010 at 05:15 AM.
#40
Arguing that an SL oil with ZDDP is better than SM/SN oil is like arguing that fiberglass is superior to carbon fiber because it contains "real glass". ZDDP certainly works, but it's pretty much obsolete except for a few engine designs that are also obsolete. Modern anti-wear and anti-oxidant additives are organic and have no metallic signatures. The absence of zinc and phosporus in an engine oil doesn't signify "weak", it signifies "upgraded".
Then there's the UOA issue. Metal readings in used oil analyses are meaningless unless they're over 100ppm. A UOA tells you the condition of the oil, not the engine.
And, while I'm being controversial, Group IV oil formulations are not superior to Group III formulations, except for (again) a few cases. The main difference between Gr IV and Gr III is oxidative stability. The "dirty little secret" of Gr IV basestocks is that they don't dissolve additives properly, making it necessary to blend in a shot Gr I or Gr 2 (low-end-conventional) basestock so the additives will stay dissolved. Gr IV with Gr II blended in is no more "pure" than a Gr III.
The special cases where Gr IV is superior to Gr III are the Gr IV/V blends that are pure racing oils. They're not recommended (by any of the manufacturers that make them including Redline) for use on the street. They do have superior film strength and they don't shear under heavy load, but they're not a solution for your daily driver.
Then there's the UOA issue. Metal readings in used oil analyses are meaningless unless they're over 100ppm. A UOA tells you the condition of the oil, not the engine.
And, while I'm being controversial, Group IV oil formulations are not superior to Group III formulations, except for (again) a few cases. The main difference between Gr IV and Gr III is oxidative stability. The "dirty little secret" of Gr IV basestocks is that they don't dissolve additives properly, making it necessary to blend in a shot Gr I or Gr 2 (low-end-conventional) basestock so the additives will stay dissolved. Gr IV with Gr II blended in is no more "pure" than a Gr III.
The special cases where Gr IV is superior to Gr III are the Gr IV/V blends that are pure racing oils. They're not recommended (by any of the manufacturers that make them including Redline) for use on the street. They do have superior film strength and they don't shear under heavy load, but they're not a solution for your daily driver.
-cliff-
A tip though: Don't waste your time trying to sway the faithful (of any denomination) with facts and hard evidence--it just labels you as a non-believer and infidel--and has no effect upon their faith.