2007GT/CS

Looking good! Here's my unasked for 2 cents/comparison on your list:
[ul][*]I'm going to run either a 275 or 285 on all 4 corners. Like you, I like the BFG KDW2s as an all the time summer tire and sometime track tire. Not pulling the trigger on these until it warms up around here![*]I'm going with a lighter 18x9.5. Steeda Ultralights aren't light and some of their new non-Ultralight wheels are a little lighter. Go figure. I'm leaning towards the TRM Motorsport MT1s - 19.5 lbs. Some other nice, relatively inexpensive wheels in that class (without getting into the 3 piece forged stuff $800 per+)[*]SS brakelines, high perf pads (gonna try the Hawk HP Plus), Motul RBF 600, etc.[*]Still looking at various brake cooling options. I kinda like the Agent 47 lower fascia scoops they make for the Shelby/CS. On the back I'm toying with the idea of making my rear CS scoops functional to cool the rears (!) You know you're committed when you start cutting holes in the body.[*]Struts, shocks, springs - samey same.[*]Saleen Watts instead of Adjustable PHB. You might consider a chrome moly piece that you could run without the need for a brace (see some of Sam's posts).[*]I'm going with J&Ms adjustable UCA and adjustable tubular LCAs. Getting spherical ends vs. poly bushings.[*]LCA relocs like you[*]Upper strut mounts (J&M) w/camber adj.[*]Not sure what else I'm doing in the front yet. May get a che k-member/torque brace, different a-arms.[/ul]
Dunno how married you are to the "roushcharger" idea but that's about the last way I'd go for F/I.

Sleeper_08

2007GT/CS

Thanks for the comments. Sorry the list got a little messed up when I pasted it from Excel.

The Roush S/C was selected as installing it does not invalidate the factory warranty and I am a conservative engineering type and at 445 HP/418 FTLBit is more than I need and hopefully will not overload the bottom end.

The smaller tires were selected as I am returning to track days after a 35 year hiatus so my brother, who has a fair bitof seat time on race tracks in race cars and road cars, suggested the 'narrower' tires would be better for learning the transition from hanging on to sliding as they will have a less abrupt transition. Once I wear out the first set I'll probably have enough experience to go to the larger ones or decide I'm crazy and stop running track days.

For brake cooling I am going to explore other options at a local performace show in March. The Agent 47 is one I'll look out for.

I can't find the weight on the Steeda wheels but thought before when I did find it that it was not too bad.

2007GT/CS

Yeah, I think the weight of the Steeda Ultalights was in the upper 20's. Not bad like a Roush wheel at 34 but certainly not 'ultralight'.

You can get the exactly same warranty by going with a base Saleen S/C package.Runninga twin screw has so many advantages over a roots (more power for comparable boost, less parasitic loss, .... Lots of posts on this obviously) but the biggest, since you are going road racing, could be the heat buildup difference. The Saleen also has a lot of 'expandability' when you decide the warranty isn't so important .

SlideWRX

Just to add to the Watts discussion, I've been digging around and came across the Australian Ford Falcon, which in the 90's was a solid rear axle with a watts:
http://www.trueblueford.com/ELsuspension_changes.html
My question is: did they run a normal 8.8" rear end, or something australia specific? It looks like from other pages on the site that they used the same 5.0 V8 as our Fox bodies/Explorer did...

It's a pumpkin mounted watts system. It would require some fabrication to fit our cars (add brackets to an aftermarket panhard bar brace for bolt in use?), but would be an interesting option.