UCA install question
Hey everyone,
I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
ORIGINAL: jz
Hey everyone,
I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Hey everyone,
I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi Joe,
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
Hi Joe,
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
ORIGINAL: jz
I'm a little confused even after reading the description. What exactly are these spacers doing, and where do they go?
I'm a little confused even after reading the description. What exactly are these spacers doing, and where do they go?
[IMG]local://upfiles/39838/536A1CDCFB974A05A3413EE915D3A5AF.jpg[/IMG]
Jazzer
ORIGINAL: jz
I'm a little confused even after reading the description. What exactly are these spacers doing, and where do they go?
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi Joe,
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
Hi Joe,
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
Theseare likespacers with a shortsleevethat goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's14mmpivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the playwhicheliminatesmovement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still hadthe stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi jz,
Theseare likespacers with a shortsleevethat goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's14mmpivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the playwhicheliminatesmovement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still hadthe stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Hi jz,
Theseare likespacers with a shortsleevethat goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's14mmpivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the playwhicheliminatesmovement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still hadthe stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Thanks for all the help.
joe
ORIGINAL: jz
Okay, one last question. You said when you still had the stock mount. I was considering buying the BMR mount since I'm going to have everything apart again. Is this part needed for the BMR mount? And also, is the stock mount that bad of a piece that I should consider the BMR one or is the stock one fine once the spacers are installed? Ha, I guess I had two questions! My car is not my DD, and I'm just looking to make it a better street performer.
Thanks for all the help.
joe
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi jz,
Theseare likespacers with a shortsleevethat goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's14mmpivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the playwhicheliminatesmovement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still hadthe stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Hi jz,
Theseare likespacers with a shortsleevethat goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's14mmpivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the playwhicheliminatesmovement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still hadthe stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Thanks for all the help.
joe
Don't buy the BMR, it is not as good as the Steeda Comp UCA/UCA mount setup. To take full advantage of the Steeda UCA mount you MUST use the SteedaComp UCA which is longer than a stock UCA by a couple of inches. This is the whole idea and whereSteeda'sComp UCA/UCA mount gets its geometric advantage over the BMRUCA and UCA mount. The BMR UCA mount isonly a partial fix but a fix with a downside due to the stock length UCA when adjustedtothe alternate adjustment hole in the BMR UCA mount.
The stock mount is O.K. for a N/A motor but may be marginal for a drag car with a blower. The stock mount is not terrible but offersnothing in the way of options to improve your rear axle'ssuspension control armgeometry. This is why Steeda's Comp UCA/UCA mount kit is best. For a normal street car all you really need are the stepped spaces and an adjustable UCA with poly bushing.
HTH!
Thanks F1Fan!!
I'll stay with the stock mount and spacers. I would like to go FI some day, but that's a long time a way. Money's tight right now, and I really want to get my car back on the road. I'll be ordering those spacers tonight. Ha, and I guess a new bolt and nut too!
Joe
I'll stay with the stock mount and spacers. I would like to go FI some day, but that's a long time a way. Money's tight right now, and I really want to get my car back on the road. I'll be ordering those spacers tonight. Ha, and I guess a new bolt and nut too!
Joe
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