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3rd Link Question

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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #1  
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gothamems
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Default 3rd Link Question

Guys real quick, I am going to get a Steeda 3rd link, but I'm not sure if I should get the beefier mount with the 3rd link, or just the 3rd link itself. Future plans for the car include suspension upgrades, Eibach, D Specs, 2.6L Ken Bel, but I don't think the HP will ever exceed 500, 475 is my goal. Do I really need the mount?
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #2  
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I have the Steeda 555-4109 set on the longer length. It was recommended to me as being the best out there in spite of being an absolete total PITA to install. It requires that the gas tank be dropped and the lip of the gas tank bent to clear the bracket. It takes a lot less time to write than it does to do it.

If I did it again I would buy the same part again but also replace the bushing at the top of the Diff with Steeda PN 555-4104.

Making this mod will increase NVH.
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 07:45 PM
  #3  
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Thanks, I'll go for the complete link, plus the busing.
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #4  
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Just ordered:
Steeda
555-4109 3rd link
PN 555-4104. spherical bushing

Thanks again
$391.68 total
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #5  
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Make sure that when you install the UCA that you use the hole on the new mount which requires you to entend the link, i.e. gives a longer link length than the stock one.

Then you make sure that the distance from the mouting holes at the front to the bolt centerline for the diff bolt match the same dimension as the stock assembly. This will then get your pinion angle close to the stock setting.
Old Nov 1, 2008 | 12:46 AM
  #6  
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I'm hoping to get it as close to neg 2 degrees as I can. Thanks for the input!
Old Nov 1, 2008 | 08:24 PM
  #7  
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Good luck getting that bushing out of the rear differential. Its basically molded in there and is nearly impossible to get out. I even bought the "remover" tool and couldn't do it. Finally gave up, hopefully you will have more luck than me. I've heard some guys use a blow torch to melt the rubber, but i wasn't about to try that near the gas tank.

As mentioned, to replace the mount you need to drop the tank. Make sure its empty so its lighter and, since your car is an 08, you will need a big torx's bit to remove the bolts holding the tank up, I don't recall the size but its pretty darn big, not something a casual mechanic will have in his tool box, I had to buy one from Snap On.
Old Nov 2, 2008 | 09:06 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Argonaut
Good luck getting that bushing out of the rear differential. Its basically molded in there and is nearly impossible to get out. I even bought the "remover" tool and couldn't do it. Finally gave up, hopefully you will have more luck than me. I've heard some guys use a blow torch to melt the rubber, but i wasn't about to try that near the gas tank.

As mentioned, to replace the mount you need to drop the tank. Make sure its empty so its lighter and, since your car is an 08, you will need a big torx's bit to remove the bolts holding the tank up, I don't recall the size but its pretty darn big, not something a casual mechanic will have in his tool box, I had to buy one from Snap On.
My suggestion for replacing the upper diff bushing was absed on my suspicion that this is the last rubber busing in my rear end that it may fail and I have not replaced it. The other consideration was that if you are in there then why not replace it especially as the OP is looking at some serious HP.

Based on your response I'm glad we didn't try to replace it.

Has anyone had one of these upper rear diff bushings fail and if yes under what conditions/other mods?
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