Alignment after lowering
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 107
From: CA
Ok here is some legitimate advise..... Is he aligning it using a string method or on a computer system? I have personally worked with the Snap-On system, the John Bean, and the most advanced Hunter systems. None of which are going to use the fractional method. If it is a computer, tell the guy you want 0.010* toe in on each side to get you to the 1/16" total toe reading you're looking for. And don't forget the make sure he locks down the thrust angle as close to ZERO degrees as possible. The factory doesn't really set a tollerance for this but the machines "asssume" 0.12* with a +/- 0.05*. Any adjustable pan hard bar should be able to get you where you need to be.
I am not flaming anyone on here and certainly do not want to bash any particular person. I must have just missed that one section. As far as my experience with ZERO toe cars, the front ends seem to want to wander a lot more and you'll find yourself working the wheel a lot more on the streets than if you run a slight toe in.
Just my 2 cents..... BTW I have aligned close to 2,000 Mustangs over the past 15 years from street to all out competition cars including working with Ford Racing directly with their own S197 professional Formula D Mustang.
I am not flaming anyone on here and certainly do not want to bash any particular person. I must have just missed that one section. As far as my experience with ZERO toe cars, the front ends seem to want to wander a lot more and you'll find yourself working the wheel a lot more on the streets than if you run a slight toe in.
Just my 2 cents..... BTW I have aligned close to 2,000 Mustangs over the past 15 years from street to all out competition cars including working with Ford Racing directly with their own S197 professional Formula D Mustang.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Some of us who do our own alignments have been doing them since the time that toe specs were commonly given in terms of inches instead of degrees, and it is a little easier to work in inches off your strings.
I guess what I'm saying is the conversion to angular measure is simple enough, and if a given alignment tech doesn't know how to do it, I wouldn't be entirely comfortable with letting him do the rest of the job.
BTW, are you sure that it's 0.010° to get 1/16" total and not more like 0.100°? Or 0.07°?
My thoughts on zero toe include the notion that the loads on everything from the outer tie rod ends in will be constantly reversing and trying to open up a little play in places where wear due to pounding can occur. Think anywhere between 0" and +1/32" rather than 0" ± sometinyamount.
I guess what I'm saying is the conversion to angular measure is simple enough, and if a given alignment tech doesn't know how to do it, I wouldn't be entirely comfortable with letting him do the rest of the job.
BTW, are you sure that it's 0.010° to get 1/16" total and not more like 0.100°? Or 0.07°?
My thoughts on zero toe include the notion that the loads on everything from the outer tie rod ends in will be constantly reversing and trying to open up a little play in places where wear due to pounding can occur. Think anywhere between 0" and +1/32" rather than 0" ± sometinyamount.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 738
From: Louisiana
Ok here is some legitimate advise..... Is he aligning it using a string method or on a computer system? I have personally worked with the Snap-On system, the John Bean, and the most advanced Hunter systems. None of which are going to use the fractional method. If it is a computer, tell the guy you want 0.010* toe in on each side to get you to the 1/16" total toe reading you're looking for. And don't forget the make sure he locks down the thrust angle as close to ZERO degrees as possible. The factory doesn't really set a tollerance for this but the machines "asssume" 0.12* with a +/- 0.05*. Any adjustable pan hard bar should be able to get you where you need to be.
I am not flaming anyone on here and certainly do not want to bash any particular person. I must have just missed that one section. As far as my experience with ZERO toe cars, the front ends seem to want to wander a lot more and you'll find yourself working the wheel a lot more on the streets than if you run a slight toe in.
Just my 2 cents..... BTW I have aligned close to 2,000 Mustangs over the past 15 years from street to all out competition cars including working with Ford Racing directly with their own S197 professional Formula D Mustang.
I am not flaming anyone on here and certainly do not want to bash any particular person. I must have just missed that one section. As far as my experience with ZERO toe cars, the front ends seem to want to wander a lot more and you'll find yourself working the wheel a lot more on the streets than if you run a slight toe in.
Just my 2 cents..... BTW I have aligned close to 2,000 Mustangs over the past 15 years from street to all out competition cars including working with Ford Racing directly with their own S197 professional Formula D Mustang.
I recently ordered the UMI 1055 panhard bar once I learned what it did and that it is kinda essential to lowering, my dampers come in Monday so I think I may wait for the panhard to get here to install everything and take a day off next week so I can get the alignment done the same day.
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