Lowering 1.5" and alignment question

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02-23-2011, 01:10 PM

#11

chrumck

2nd Gear Member

Join Date: Jul 2005

Location: Seattle, WA

Posts: 171

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

For camber, this (though at different times I've also used some really simple common measuring equipment, or a gauge I built that uses a dial indicator)

Parallel strings on jackstands for toe.

Norm

Have you got any tutorial how to do that properly with the common equipment? I'm also interested how you measure caster.

I see also that you use digital protractor. Is it better way than using a digital level?

02-23-2011, 01:15 PM

#12

MrLatte

Thread Starter

Join Date: Jan 2009

Location: WA

Posts: 27

Quote:

Originally Posted by ffk_pennywise

My 2 cents: Make damn sure you get the alignment done right. Ford specs allow for a wide range of settings but that doesn't necessarily make it right. After I lowered I had a local reputable chain shop do my alignment. While it was technically in spec it wasnt right. After less than a year my tires are so chewed up its not funny. Plenty of tread on the outside and bald on the inside. The car shakes like your driving on railroad tracks. I called Sam Strano and he told me what it should have been aligned at and then I made the shop do it again.

That's very interesting and a bit unsettling. I guess the question then is, are there good alignment numbers out there that we can give to the local shop - perhaps tighter than the factory numbers what would work better for a lowered car?

02-23-2011, 01:42 PM

#13

Norm Peterson

6th Gear Member

Join Date: Feb 2007

Location: state of confusion

Posts: 7,635

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrumck

Have you got any tutorial how to do that properly with the common equipment? I'm also interested how you measure caster.

I have a write-up of sorts (MS Word *.doc), but with the pics it's way too big to attach. PM an email address.

Caster can be determined indirectly from camber measurements made with the wheels steered first one way and again with them steered the other. A little math is involved. I't in the write-up.

Quote:

I see also that you use digital protractor. Is it better way than using a digital level?

It will read camber out directly once the bubble is centered in the vial.

Norm

02-23-2011, 01:59 PM

#14

Norm Peterson

6th Gear Member

Join Date: Feb 2007

Location: state of confusion

Posts: 7,635

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrLatte

Probably the biggest influence is the way you normally take corners. The harder you do and the more frequently you do suggest that you should set your camber further negative than OE preferred (which is -0.75°) or for whatever would be optimum for a mild driver who takes things at a more moderate pace.

FWIW, the upper end of the OE range (-1.5°) is entirely livable for a driver who is unusually "enthusiastic" about cornering. The flip side is that at that setting, you must be aggressive in order to live with it.

On the other hand, if you don't take corners very hard but frequently find yourself using the brakes hard, you might actually want to set your cambers less negative.

IMO, the presence of lowering springs is only a secondary influence overall.

Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 02-23-2011 at 02:01 PM.