Diff spit up a bit on track; cause for concern?
You can buy an entire catch can assembly from here for $129, shipping included. Its designed well.
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Musta...-reservoir.htm
Remove the 2 rear UCA bracket bolts (blue locktite so they turn hard all the way out), and install onto the axle with supplied brass fittings. Keep hose away from exhaust and the cross frame bracket above panhard bar.
This thread has detailed pics of an install on a '12 Boss LS.
http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-h...er-is-no-more/
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Musta...-reservoir.htm
Remove the 2 rear UCA bracket bolts (blue locktite so they turn hard all the way out), and install onto the axle with supplied brass fittings. Keep hose away from exhaust and the cross frame bracket above panhard bar.
This thread has detailed pics of an install on a '12 Boss LS.
http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-h...er-is-no-more/
Turkey baster is a crappy bandaid, at best. Just not a legit long-term solution for me given it still leaks and the thing looked like hell after 6 months.
Better solution, I hope, is to buy the Boss/GT500 diff cover and a good quality 7/16-20 bolt/plug. The diff cover relocates the axle vent to near the top of the pumpkin (where it should be), and the bolt (a stainless steel one in my case, cut down, with some high-temp loctite applied) plugs the hole where the vent used to go. Not 100% sure this solves the problem as I just installed the setup a few weeks ago and haven't been to the track, but looking at a couple Bosses that were at the track days I was at last year it appeared they had no leaks.
LMR has a kit with the diff cover, the necessary ARP bolts and a new OEM axle vent for something around $120 shipped. I threw in a Lube Locker gasket and ordered RP 75W-140 off Amazon. True Value for the SS bolt, though there are proper plugs out there somewhere I think. Hopefully that will be the final word on this issue; not claiming this is the only way to skin this cat, but if it works long-term it's the most 'factory' way and gives you the added bonus of a nicer looking/better cooling diff cover
.
Better solution, I hope, is to buy the Boss/GT500 diff cover and a good quality 7/16-20 bolt/plug. The diff cover relocates the axle vent to near the top of the pumpkin (where it should be), and the bolt (a stainless steel one in my case, cut down, with some high-temp loctite applied) plugs the hole where the vent used to go. Not 100% sure this solves the problem as I just installed the setup a few weeks ago and haven't been to the track, but looking at a couple Bosses that were at the track days I was at last year it appeared they had no leaks.
LMR has a kit with the diff cover, the necessary ARP bolts and a new OEM axle vent for something around $120 shipped. I threw in a Lube Locker gasket and ordered RP 75W-140 off Amazon. True Value for the SS bolt, though there are proper plugs out there somewhere I think. Hopefully that will be the final word on this issue; not claiming this is the only way to skin this cat, but if it works long-term it's the most 'factory' way and gives you the added bonus of a nicer looking/better cooling diff cover
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Drano, just read the thread you linked to; did your car come with a turkey baster on the axle AND the vent up on top of the OEM diff cover? I guess I'm confused. The Bosses and recent GT500s I've looked under have the vent up on top of the diff cover and then a plug in the axle.
You can buy an entire catch can assembly from here for $129, shipping included. Its designed well.
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Musta...-reservoir.htm
Remove the 2 rear UCA bracket bolts (blue locktite so they turn hard all the way out), and install onto the axle with supplied brass fittings. Keep hose away from exhaust and the cross frame bracket above panhard bar.
This thread has detailed pics of an install on a '12 Boss LS.
http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-h...er-is-no-more/
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Musta...-reservoir.htm
Remove the 2 rear UCA bracket bolts (blue locktite so they turn hard all the way out), and install onto the axle with supplied brass fittings. Keep hose away from exhaust and the cross frame bracket above panhard bar.
This thread has detailed pics of an install on a '12 Boss LS.
http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-h...er-is-no-more/
Not going to replace the diff. cover, did that awhile ago with the ford racing axle girdle that has a drain plug.
Drano, just read the thread you linked to; did your car come with a turkey baster on the axle AND the vent up on top of the OEM diff cover? I guess I'm confused. The Bosses and recent GT500s I've looked under have the vent up on top of the diff cover and then a plug in the axle.
The pics in the linked post is a Boss LS with an aftermarket FRPP diff cover--not threaded for a vent at top of that cover. And he added the axle baster after purchasing the car.
I put a turkey baster on the axle right away. It was damp and full of dust after 3 track days.
So rather than adding a baster to the top of the diff cover (another popular Boss mod), I got the above linked catch can. I ran BIR last weekend, with top speeds of 140+, and all is dry.
GT owners will have to see if Ford sells the Boss/GT500 diff cover vent to install it on the top of the catch can.
Catch can hose/brass fitting goes to the axle. Diff cover vent goes in the top of the catch can. Factory axle plug goes to top of diff cover where vent was on a Boss or GT500.
I'm clearly missing something here, and perhaps it's my brain, but I remain confused.
In the linked thread, the guy went with a different diff cover. So no vent up top, and he needed a catch can. That I get. But you have the OEM Boss diff cover, so why did you add the turkey baster to the axle in place of a plug?
Put another way, are Boss guys getting leaks out of the vent at the top of the diff cover when the car is stock? Maybe that's what we're getting at, which means my mod will ultimately be a failure, but it has to be an improvment over the turkey baster on the axle...
In the linked thread, the guy went with a different diff cover. So no vent up top, and he needed a catch can. That I get. But you have the OEM Boss diff cover, so why did you add the turkey baster to the axle in place of a plug?
Put another way, are Boss guys getting leaks out of the vent at the top of the diff cover when the car is stock? Maybe that's what we're getting at, which means my mod will ultimately be a failure, but it has to be an improvment over the turkey baster on the axle...
Phil,
He put a new diff cover on his Boss LS because the one he chose has drain/fill plugs--Boss owners manual supplement says replace fluid every 12 track hours, so now he can do it easier.
Boss track rats found fluid leaking out the stock top diff vent. So, turkey basters were first added to the axle. Then someone figured out a baster fits on top of the diff cover too, and won't get smashed under full suspension compression like originally thought--so some ran both basters.
But on high speed tracks--like Brainard where 140-150 mph is easily attainable and for a good distance also--some had venting with 2 basters installed.
Since I knew I would be driving Brainard, I installed the catch can rather than buying a second baster.
The good news is your Boss diff cover will aid cooling, so put the baster on top of that as you mentioned, and you should be good for all but the most demanding high speed tracks. MAM and MPH will most likely work well with a Boss cover and baster on top since they aren't fast tracks.
He put a new diff cover on his Boss LS because the one he chose has drain/fill plugs--Boss owners manual supplement says replace fluid every 12 track hours, so now he can do it easier.
Boss track rats found fluid leaking out the stock top diff vent. So, turkey basters were first added to the axle. Then someone figured out a baster fits on top of the diff cover too, and won't get smashed under full suspension compression like originally thought--so some ran both basters.
But on high speed tracks--like Brainard where 140-150 mph is easily attainable and for a good distance also--some had venting with 2 basters installed.
Since I knew I would be driving Brainard, I installed the catch can rather than buying a second baster.
The good news is your Boss diff cover will aid cooling, so put the baster on top of that as you mentioned, and you should be good for all but the most demanding high speed tracks. MAM and MPH will most likely work well with a Boss cover and baster on top since they aren't fast tracks.
Ah, now I get it. I'm not sure why anyone would run a baster on the axle and at the top of the diff (why not just the top of the diff?) if they are in otherwise stock form, but the rest makes sense. I'll be interested to see if mine leaks with a regular vent up top and a bolt in the axle. Surprised to hear they do on a Boss, but so be it. Clearly I'm just a bit down on power compared to a Boss (only 129hp!), and the most I hit on any track is probably 120ish at Heartland Park and MAM. Not planning any trips to Brainerd or Road America anytime soon, so I won't be seeing those kind of speeds you guys are seeing on track. Which is also probably good since I don't have Brembos yet. Anyway, I'll report back. Hopefully headed to MAM next Friday, the 18th...
So, this is still kicking my butt. I installed the catch can from bob's, really nice kit. But, it doesn't seem to have helped with the problem, diff oil is still spewing out, but now from the top of the catch can. I believe I did overfill the diff initially, but I had the dealer check the oil level and they said it was low, and tried to sell me on replacing the seal on the diff cover, saying it was leaking, but it would look like it's leaking due to the catch can directly above the pumpkin. Seem like it spews oil at speeds above 100. It's like something is working like a pump. Anyone know what could be causing this and further, how to fix it? Or should I just cut the losses and get another beefier rear end? And if so, whose?
Not sure why yours is leaking. Maybe the supercharger power causes the diff to overheat quicker. I'd suggest re-checking the diff fluid level.
I've had Bob's catch can on since May, and done 8 road course days (4 at Brainerd MN, with 140-150 mph on the 1 mile straight away). Just checked it, and all is dry.
I installed the hose onto the axle, took the vent off the top of my Boss diff cover, and moved it to the top of the catch can. The top of my diff cover is now plugged.
Hope you solve it.
I've had Bob's catch can on since May, and done 8 road course days (4 at Brainerd MN, with 140-150 mph on the 1 mile straight away). Just checked it, and all is dry.
I installed the hose onto the axle, took the vent off the top of my Boss diff cover, and moved it to the top of the catch can. The top of my diff cover is now plugged.
Hope you solve it.


