Mustang259

Norm
Thanks for the great info and I appreciate your insight on the Metco LCA's, I did have Rick at Metco switch the delrin bushing to poly which he advised would be better for my intended use. The one thing I really like is that they have grease fittings so keeping them lube should not be a problem.
Based on your statement " Yes, you can probably crutch the situation with a softer rear bar than what you'd run otherwise, but it seems better to avoid the problem in the first place so that you don't need to do the band-aid either."
Should I stick with the softer stock sway bars?
also, should the stock springs be addressed or left alone?
I appreciate your help

bakerjd

I'm running Sports on my DD and I feel like I should have gotten the SRTs because I don't use the adjustability enough to justify the purchase. If you auto-x'd, my answer would differ but you will find yourself riding around on full soft anyhow with the sports which is comprable to the SRTs so why not just save some money and buy those. Just my 2 cents.

mayo

I have the str.t's now and would not want to firm up the travel in my suspension at this point, even if I could. If I planned to track the car, I would probably spend the extra $$, but for a DD...no way.
I also believe the str.t's have a lifetime warranty as well.

Jay@Hypermotive

You're correct, Koni offers a lifetime warranty on their STR.T. Like I've told everyone else, I enjoy the adjustability of the yellows. Whether you adjust once or mulitple times you can adjust to your liking, I enjoy the comfort of adjusting to how I like car to ride.

Norm Peterson

I have to give Rick credit for steering you away from the Delrin (it's even stiffer than and "binds" worse during cornering than poly).

There almost certainly are a few things you can do to free up the poly a little further for cornering, though. The simplest one is to make sure that the flat faces of the poly bushings extend just short of the ends of the inner sleeves (aka "ferrules") so that a tiny bit of sleeve sticks out past the poly (maybe under 1/32" total?). A belt sander or even a bench grinder will work for this. Bushing life may be shortened, and you might want to lube them a little more frequently, but poly bushings should be considered "wear & maintenance parts" anyway. Think about it a bit first.


Specifically a stock rear bar. Since what you're trying to do is keep too big of a percentage of the roll stiffness from being at the rear, running a stiffer front bar would be OK. A heavier or adjustable front bar plus an adjustable rear bar where you know that the softest adjustment is no stiffer than the OE rear bar would also be an acceptable place to start from.


If you're ever going to do the springs and you aren't going to use anybody's kit (which includes the Steeda Sports/Strano bars/Koni Sports setup that's a de facto kit), do the springs first without swapping the bars and see what you need to do/fix from there. Since you can always do the bars without disassembling anything else, installing (and/or adjusting) them after swapping the springs is the logical sequence.


Norm

UPRSharad

I'm running Koni Sports with UPR/Eibach Pro springs and UPR suspension on my car. It works very well. I had to adjust the Konis a couple of times until I found a setting I liked. I don't think the STR.Ts would've worked well for me.

M3hunter

Both are great shocks, it will depend on how often you are planing to go to the track. I have KONI STRT with STEEDA Sport springs. And it has been the best choice for me. Great handling and ready for the occasional track time.
Also it will depend on your pocket ($).