Vortech V-2 upgrades?
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ORIGINAL: OrangeGTCS
May I ask why you plan on doing all this to a v6 stang? No disrespect, but why not start with aV8 platform, because in the long run you're just gonna end up spending more money to try to get the same results as if you started out with a GT. I'm sorry I guess I just don't understand the logic
May I ask why you plan on doing all this to a v6 stang? No disrespect, but why not start with aV8 platform, because in the long run you're just gonna end up spending more money to try to get the same results as if you started out with a GT. I'm sorry I guess I just don't understand the logic
whats that now ?[/blockquote]
ORIGINAL: SteelStang05
Just curious, what the usual gain for an 11/12psi intercooled application(vortech preferably w/their weird intercooler) with a snowperformancestage 2 boost cooler(meth/water injection)? Very curious b/c I hear these people on other sites gaing 40-60rwhp tunedon 16-18psi f/i set-ups. I was thinking it has to be at least worth 10rwhp(I've seen horribly made kits make 10rwhp), but I'd like to know a ballpark of what to expect before I purchase it. Thanks ahead!
Just curious, what the usual gain for an 11/12psi intercooled application(vortech preferably w/their weird intercooler) with a snowperformancestage 2 boost cooler(meth/water injection)? Very curious b/c I hear these people on other sites gaing 40-60rwhp tunedon 16-18psi f/i set-ups. I was thinking it has to be at least worth 10rwhp(I've seen horribly made kits make 10rwhp), but I'd like to know a ballpark of what to expect before I purchase it. Thanks ahead!
ORIGINAL: cacimar
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whats that now ?[/blockquote]
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ORIGINAL: OrangeGTCS
May I ask why you plan on doing all this to a v6 stang? No disrespect, but why not start with aV8 platform, because in the long run you're just gonna end up spending more money to try to get the same results as if you started out with a GT. I'm sorry I guess I just don't understand the logic
May I ask why you plan on doing all this to a v6 stang? No disrespect, but why not start with aV8 platform, because in the long run you're just gonna end up spending more money to try to get the same results as if you started out with a GT. I'm sorry I guess I just don't understand the logic
whats that now ?[/blockquote]
Sixxers can be made faster for cheaper. Base price 19K for a sixxer, 26K for a GT. For 7K, a sixxer can run low 12's, high 11's. For the same amount, a Gt would run faster, but cost more. That is the logic.
Steelestang-The GT block is a bit more reliable, so I am just giving you a heads up. Power is not what is really going to screw your engine up. It is the Boost. I'm running 11PSI based on my tune. I do not think a sixxer will run 11PSI and not have problems. I don't think it would be safe. You should be putting around 350 RWHP, and about 300 RWTQ, give or take. Go with a conservative tune, that leaves a little room for a re-tune, and play it safe.
Steelestang-The GT block is a bit more reliable, so I am just giving you a heads up. Power is not what is really going to screw your engine up. It is the Boost. I'm running 11PSI based on my tune. I do not think a sixxer will run 11PSI and not have problems. I don't think it would be safe. You should be putting around 350 RWHP, and about 300 RWTQ, give or take. Go with a conservative tune, that leaves a little room for a re-tune, and play it safe.
eventually a v6 will need a beefed up rear end and tranny i would think... that added with the price of a s/c or turbo, would be over that of a basic gt.
im not saying the 6er is a bad idea, to each their own... if i were to get an s197, id prolly just buy a used GT and slap a KB on it...
i am bias to v8's tho
im not saying the 6er is a bad idea, to each their own... if i were to get an s197, id prolly just buy a used GT and slap a KB on it...
i am bias to v8's tho
ORIGINAL: Grabber
Sixxers can be made faster for cheaper. Base price 19K for a sixxer, 26K for a GT. For 7K, a sixxer can run low 12's, high 11's. For the same amount, a Gt would run faster, but cost more. That is the logic.
Steelestang-The GT block is a bit more reliable, so I am just giving you a heads up. Power is not what is really going to screw your engine up. It is the Boost. I'm running 11PSI based on my tune. I do not think a sixxer will run 11PSI and not have problems. I don't think it would be safe. You should be putting around 350 RWHP, and about 300 RWTQ, give or take. Go with a conservative tune, that leaves a little room for a re-tune, and play it safe.
Sixxers can be made faster for cheaper. Base price 19K for a sixxer, 26K for a GT. For 7K, a sixxer can run low 12's, high 11's. For the same amount, a Gt would run faster, but cost more. That is the logic.
Steelestang-The GT block is a bit more reliable, so I am just giving you a heads up. Power is not what is really going to screw your engine up. It is the Boost. I'm running 11PSI based on my tune. I do not think a sixxer will run 11PSI and not have problems. I don't think it would be safe. You should be putting around 350 RWHP, and about 300 RWTQ, give or take. Go with a conservative tune, that leaves a little room for a re-tune, and play it safe.
To answer the money into the V6 thing, like others said it's cheaper to make a 11sec/12sec V6 than it is to make a GT. If my goals werebetter (low 11's/10's), Iwould definitlyget the gt orfully forge my internals. I am really not going to take my car to the track a lot (maybe a couple times aseason), and if Ido with drag radials and the set-up I'm thinking, mid-12's orprobably lower w/a sixeris pretty respectable.
2000AZ5.0GT, Thanks for the ballpark! Just what I was looking for!
I see it would be very wise for me to buy a $500/installed meth/h2o injection kit! 20rwhp that easy sounds nice! Not to mention there's more potential for probably another 20rwhp more, [sm=jawdrop.gif].With whatI've seen from similarv6's dyno'd(most auto's at 11psi-see 320rwhp on mustang dyno'sw/conservative tunes),I could be looking at over 350rwhp with this. I can't wait to get my car hooked up! Thanks guysfor all the help! And Good Luck with your cars and plans![sm=icon_rock.gif]Edit: Forgot to mention I am not doing any hard launches, and am going to be very conservative launching the car, so my t-lok on my stock rear end should be fine. If it goes though, that's fine. I was thinking about upgrading it sooner or later w/f/i.
I ran a Snow Performance meth kit on my 2000 Mustang GT Vert. I had a Vortech supercharger with no intercooler, so the meth was performing as a chemical intercooler. It's hard to tell what kind of power I picked up when it first went on because the last dyno I had before the kit was done at Modular Power House in GA. The meth kit went on at Kaufmans in PA whose dyno reads lower. I eventually did a pulley swap and ran over 400 rwhp on an engine that had 135k (stock block). I also had almost every other performance mod out there (l/t headers, etc.). I also run a meth kit on my STI, but they react differently in turbo applications.
One thing about chemical intercooling. If the tuner tunes the car to take full advantage of the added octane the meth provides and that sucker stops spraying for some reason while under boost, you've got about 2 seconds to get out of the gas before your engine is toast. A failed pump - a clogged nozzle - a busted line - all could spell doom. My tuner did not advance the timing to take full effect of the added octane the meth provided. He was under the "better safe than sorry" impression (Modular Power House wouldn't even install the kit - said it was a ticking time bomb). In fact, the meth system did fail on the guy I sold the car to while he was road racing it. That was the end of the engine.
In any event, set aside $500 or so for a good WIDEBAND A/F guage. It is one of your few defenses. Good luck.
One thing about chemical intercooling. If the tuner tunes the car to take full advantage of the added octane the meth provides and that sucker stops spraying for some reason while under boost, you've got about 2 seconds to get out of the gas before your engine is toast. A failed pump - a clogged nozzle - a busted line - all could spell doom. My tuner did not advance the timing to take full effect of the added octane the meth provided. He was under the "better safe than sorry" impression (Modular Power House wouldn't even install the kit - said it was a ticking time bomb). In fact, the meth system did fail on the guy I sold the car to while he was road racing it. That was the end of the engine.
In any event, set aside $500 or so for a good WIDEBAND A/F guage. It is one of your few defenses. Good luck.
Steelestang- Sure, the sixxer has forged internals, but an Aluminum block engine is of much better quality. Not to mention, your rear end will weaken especially if that S/C'ed sixxer is your DD. Launching the car hard will obviously do that, however, roll racing is just as hard on the rear end. You will still need to beef the rear end up regardless.
Now, about your tranny... correct me if I am wrong but the GT and the sixxer have the same trans, the GT's is a bit more beefed up though. If my trans is rated at 400lbs. of Torque, and the sixxer is rated less, what do you think will happen? Do these other people you talk about DD their S/C'ed sixxer, running on 14-15 lbs. of boost? the choice is yours. I am giving you my advice from someone experience with racing, and with mustangs, especially with your setup.
Now, about your tranny... correct me if I am wrong but the GT and the sixxer have the same trans, the GT's is a bit more beefed up though. If my trans is rated at 400lbs. of Torque, and the sixxer is rated less, what do you think will happen? Do these other people you talk about DD their S/C'ed sixxer, running on 14-15 lbs. of boost? the choice is yours. I am giving you my advice from someone experience with racing, and with mustangs, especially with your setup.


