consistency
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 147
From:
RE: consistency
ORIGINAL: buster
I just realized that I didn't have 5sp in my sig....sorry guys. I guess I should elaborate a bit more. Before my 06 I had an 01 5sp, it ran like a train. Anywhere between 14.2 and 14.3 no matter the weather or any other variable. I know the 06 has more power , but not that much..... Off the line I don't hear any tire squeal, I leave at 3000 rpm, shift at 5000, don't powershift, but just can't get any consistency. Like I said its been in the mid 13s to low 14s. I don't want drag radials because I drive the car to the track and would like to drive it home in one piece. Overall, I really like the new Stang except for the lack of consistency on the track. Driver error? Please critisize me, I can take it
I just realized that I didn't have 5sp in my sig....sorry guys. I guess I should elaborate a bit more. Before my 06 I had an 01 5sp, it ran like a train. Anywhere between 14.2 and 14.3 no matter the weather or any other variable. I know the 06 has more power , but not that much..... Off the line I don't hear any tire squeal, I leave at 3000 rpm, shift at 5000, don't powershift, but just can't get any consistency. Like I said its been in the mid 13s to low 14s. I don't want drag radials because I drive the car to the track and would like to drive it home in one piece. Overall, I really like the new Stang except for the lack of consistency on the track. Driver error? Please critisize me, I can take it
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,940
From: alberta, canada
RE: consistency
I don't have slips left, my RT is usually around .1, my 60 ft is usually 2.0-2.1, occassionally dipping into the 1.9 area. It just seems to hop the wheels alot and there goes the run. I don't hear the tires squeal, 3000 rpm off the line and I just never know what time I will run.
Between this car and the previous 2, I have probably 500 - 600 passes under my belt
Between this car and the previous 2, I have probably 500 - 600 passes under my belt
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 147
From:
RE: consistency
ORIGINAL: buster
I don't have slips left, my RT is usually around .1, my 60 ft is usually 2.0-2.1, occassionally dipping into the 1.9 area. It just seems to hop the wheels alot and there goes the run. I don't hear the tires squeal, 3000 rpm off the line and I just never know what time I will run.
Between this car and the previous 2, I have probably 500 - 600 passes under my belt
I don't have slips left, my RT is usually around .1, my 60 ft is usually 2.0-2.1, occassionally dipping into the 1.9 area. It just seems to hop the wheels alot and there goes the run. I don't hear the tires squeal, 3000 rpm off the line and I just never know what time I will run.
Between this car and the previous 2, I have probably 500 - 600 passes under my belt
When it comes to bracket racing 60' ranging from 1.9 - 2.1 is huge. This will make your RT and ET numbers vary as well. Makes it really hard to cut consistant lights and dial-in the car. Drag radials might help you out. It doesn't matter what 60' you have they just need to be the same. In my caseI'm looking for a 2.15x 60'.
When you cut a 1.9 60' does your RT suffer? Did you cut good lights (better than your average) with the2.1 60' ?
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,940
From: alberta, canada
RE: consistency
Nope, low 60 ft actually helps the RT. I don't want to do the DR thing because I have seen too many broken rear ends becasue of them.
As far as keeping the car cool, that doesn't work either. I have won at brackets before and in the classes that I go in, when you get down the the last few cars it becomes NASCAR with how quickly you are back on the track. When elimiations start, I start the car and generally don't turn it off, because you won't have time to cool it down, so I want it running hot. People think that is weird.
I think I might try leaving the line at 2500 to maybe slow some wheelspin that can't be heard. I shift at 5000 and scream the traps in 3rd gear. This would be a new strategy. What do you guys think? Bracket racing isn't about performance, it' s consistency.
As far as keeping the car cool, that doesn't work either. I have won at brackets before and in the classes that I go in, when you get down the the last few cars it becomes NASCAR with how quickly you are back on the track. When elimiations start, I start the car and generally don't turn it off, because you won't have time to cool it down, so I want it running hot. People think that is weird.
I think I might try leaving the line at 2500 to maybe slow some wheelspin that can't be heard. I shift at 5000 and scream the traps in 3rd gear. This would be a new strategy. What do you guys think? Bracket racing isn't about performance, it' s consistency.
Administrator
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 16,186
From: yep
RE: consistency
buster, you ask a question and then talk like you know everything when people reply. keep in mind, ive watched you bracket race at norwalk...and while i recall you making it fairly far, i dont recall it to be a john force like performance...
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 147
From:
RE: consistency
I'm really trying to help you out here. Kinda hard without the timeslips. Could be the car, driver, track, or any combo.I was trying to figure out if you were staging in a different spot each run. Don't know either way. From what you keep posting you sometimes have wheel hop and spin. Something is happening to effect your 60' each run. Have a buddy vidio your launchs. Play back frame by from and see it's happening. Possible you got out of the grove a little (too far right or left) or perhaps its just the track prep. Anyway to have a good bracket car you need to be able to hook on spit. If that doesn't happen you will never have consistant runs. Also changing launch RPMwill effect your lights just to let you know.The car should be adjusted to cut a goodlight not the driver. If the car ain't hooking you can't make thoseadjustments toproperly setup the car to the lights.If I'm cutting .040 lights and need to do betterI don't try tomake myself cut a better light. I change the car to launch harder to geta .020 light (and no I don't bump in further). Another thread.
I recommended that you run the car at normal temps, you said you run the car hot... same thing.Car needs to be the same temp in round 1 as in a round robin mode at the end of the day. Not wierd just a bracket racing thing.
IMO I would go to a drag radial (BFG Drag Radial or Nitto 555). Stay away from the sticker Hoosiersand Mickey Thompsons which will be harder on the rear. Might prove to make the car hook consistintly. I think the 8.8 Ford rear isn't that fragile and can handletheBFG and Nitto drag radials.
I recommended that you run the car at normal temps, you said you run the car hot... same thing.Car needs to be the same temp in round 1 as in a round robin mode at the end of the day. Not wierd just a bracket racing thing.
IMO I would go to a drag radial (BFG Drag Radial or Nitto 555). Stay away from the sticker Hoosiersand Mickey Thompsons which will be harder on the rear. Might prove to make the car hook consistintly. I think the 8.8 Ford rear isn't that fragile and can handletheBFG and Nitto drag radials.
Pro. B.S. caller outer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,644
From: IL
RE: consistency
ORIGINAL: buster
Nope, low 60 ft actually helps the RT. I don't want to do the DR thing because I have seen too many broken rear ends becasue of them.
As far as keeping the car cool, that doesn't work either. I have won at brackets before and in the classes that I go in, when you get down the the last few cars it becomes NASCAR with how quickly you are back on the track. When elimiations start, I start the car and generally don't turn it off, because you won't have time to cool it down, so I want it running hot. People think that is weird.
I think I might try leaving the line at 2500 to maybe slow some wheelspin that can't be heard. I shift at 5000 and scream the traps in 3rd gear. This would be a new strategy. What do you guys think? Bracket racing isn't about performance, it' s consistency.
Nope, low 60 ft actually helps the RT. I don't want to do the DR thing because I have seen too many broken rear ends becasue of them.
As far as keeping the car cool, that doesn't work either. I have won at brackets before and in the classes that I go in, when you get down the the last few cars it becomes NASCAR with how quickly you are back on the track. When elimiations start, I start the car and generally don't turn it off, because you won't have time to cool it down, so I want it running hot. People think that is weird.
I think I might try leaving the line at 2500 to maybe slow some wheelspin that can't be heard. I shift at 5000 and scream the traps in 3rd gear. This would be a new strategy. What do you guys think? Bracket racing isn't about performance, it' s consistency.
Mach I Section Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,140
From: round abouts these parts
RE: consistency
i would listen to JD dude, the biggest influence on running the same over and over, is tires IMHO, and JD has been racing longer than you've been alive probably....i trust him, and i think you should too.
BUT JD!!!!
i do disagree with you
statement.....i run consistant 8.8's on a street tire with a consistent 2.0 60ft[8D]
BUT JD!!!!
i do disagree with you
why do I not see dr's and lcs's in that mod list?? trying to be consistent on a regular tire is not going to happen.