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Lowering Springs

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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:49 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by timspony
...Also, lowered = more difficult to change the OIL!
No doubt. Almost impossible to get the car off the ground.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:06 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 562cobra
Now I've heard, and done some research, that 295's are the biggest tires you can have without rubbing the bolt. 10.5" wheels require a 315 tire, which will rub the bolt and eventually end up slicing your tire sidewall.
I must add, that the 295's were fitted on stock suspension.

Originally Posted by mmafan
OK I went to look at the prices of them and they are around 250.00 bucks..Thats not that bad...That is everything right? What it comes with is all I need? except for the iso bolt if I go with a bigger tire and rim..But I saw sport and race type of springs..What is the difference? Or do I just get the sport....? Also what about installation, is it expensive? take awhile? thanks guys and sick cars....
What you buy is all you need, now unless it's a greater drop than 1.5" which you will need cc plates. that is another subject which I will explain later.

The IRS subframe bolt would only be needed when you go with wider wheels/tires.

Besides the obvious the sport springs offer a 1.6" front drop and a 1.5" rear drop.
Now the race springs offer a 1.5" front and rear. They are said to be more comfortable out of the two. It wont bottom out on mostly anything.
If you end up going with the sport springs, I would suggest to leave the Isolators on there. If not, you will most likely end up with a drop like mine. Now for the Race springs, it would be up to you to use the stock isolators or some aftermarket ones.

Sport spring here
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...pring-set.html
Race spring here
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...pring-set.html

I have no Idea about installation costs. I installed mine with a friends help. Just make sure you have enough tools and wrenches to work with. Some 22's and 24's were some that I used most while installing. wrenches that is.
I split the installation into 2 days. the front was done first, then the rear.

Originally Posted by Grabber
I am not sure about isolators. I would imagine so, as all of the bushings have been changed out.

Also, about the tire sizes. I've put a 315 Nitto on my 9 inch rim, with no rubbing. That is probably pushing it. Good point 562.
Yeah, cause I see in your sig that you have the super sport springs which I also have, and our drop looks different. What ended up happening to those springs? did they get discontinued? they offered a 1.6" drop front and rear.

Originally Posted by timspony
...Also, lowered = more difficult to change the OIL!
No problem here changing the oil.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:13 PM
  #13  
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I'm not too sure. The previous owner has done a lot of crap to this car. It may be a different set of springs that are discontinued.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:14 PM
  #14  
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Understood.

Have you had it dynoed?
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #15  
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Not yet. Right now though, I should be making a bit over 400 RWHP and about 450 TQ. That would be my guess.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #16  
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Let me know your numbers when you get em.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:44 PM
  #17  
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I think I might go with the race springs because it is the same drop all around...Is that common for people who lower their cars, to get the same all around or the staggered look?
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:58 PM
  #18  
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Some go with the staggered look. Race springs will be more uncomfortable than Sport Springs. I'd suggest sport springs for daily driving, and race springs for cars that only come out for racing.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #19  
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i really don't care for the staggered look, as long as it's dropped.
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