SVT noise chase
2001 Cobra with 83K - had some noises and I am trying to adress them.
1. successful with the squeaking noise up front: R&R tensioner and the 2 idler pulleys......after removal I did a quick look at the parts:
- the tensioner pulley didn't turn at all, at least not from my efforts
- the 2 idler pulley were free wheeling by hand, you could hear the
bearings inside and all the grease that should have been in there
seemed to have found a new home on the inside of the pulleys.
2. still working on the 'squeaking'/'grinding' noise in the rear/pass side
- the calipers were old so i put new ones in; no change
- disconnected the E-line from that metallic standoff and tie-wrapped
to stay away from wheel; no change
- next is to investigate if i can add grease to the ?tie rod?: will report
- if that doesn't bring joy, next step is to look at the knuckle/ball joint in
the IRS upper control arm: will report
note: that rear noise sure reminds me of the 'ball joint slip/slide noise without grease' but i have to verify before i start pulling those out.
any comments or experience out there with this?
1. successful with the squeaking noise up front: R&R tensioner and the 2 idler pulleys......after removal I did a quick look at the parts:
- the tensioner pulley didn't turn at all, at least not from my efforts
- the 2 idler pulley were free wheeling by hand, you could hear the
bearings inside and all the grease that should have been in there
seemed to have found a new home on the inside of the pulleys.
2. still working on the 'squeaking'/'grinding' noise in the rear/pass side
- the calipers were old so i put new ones in; no change
- disconnected the E-line from that metallic standoff and tie-wrapped
to stay away from wheel; no change
- next is to investigate if i can add grease to the ?tie rod?: will report
- if that doesn't bring joy, next step is to look at the knuckle/ball joint in
the IRS upper control arm: will report
note: that rear noise sure reminds me of the 'ball joint slip/slide noise without grease' but i have to verify before i start pulling those out.
any comments or experience out there with this?
To be honest, unless you have a video or sound clip- it is very difficult to diagnose.
"that rear noise sure reminds me of the 'ball joint slip/slide noise without grease' but i have to verify before i start pulling those out" - that's more of a hard popping sound... right? Are you sure it's not a rearend clunking noise?
"that rear noise sure reminds me of the 'ball joint slip/slide noise without grease' but i have to verify before i start pulling those out" - that's more of a hard popping sound... right? Are you sure it's not a rearend clunking noise?
a little research.........Ford does not just sell the tie rod end( the end with the ball joint), one has to buy the complete tie rod assembly( from the connection at the bottom center of the IRS to the outer bottom control arm ).
Price is $122 each. Doesn't seem hard to install other then ensuring the adjusted length is the new one is the same of the old one.
Any hints on the R&R process??
Price is $122 each. Doesn't seem hard to install other then ensuring the adjusted length is the new one is the same of the old one.
Any hints on the R&R process??
Does the clunking sound occur when starting from a complete stop or while turning?
Not sure what the part number looks like, but I think you're referring to the rear toe link. Replacement should be fairly straight forward, but you may need an alignment afterwards.
My other concerns with the clunking could be from the gears themselves, usually a backlash adjustment, OR worn CV joints.
Not sure what the part number looks like, but I think you're referring to the rear toe link. Replacement should be fairly straight forward, but you may need an alignment afterwards.
My other concerns with the clunking could be from the gears themselves, usually a backlash adjustment, OR worn CV joints.
Alas.....the 2 ball joints received for the tie rods were not the correct parts and i sent them back.
However, the tech verified that the present joints were OK and squirted some grease via a needle. While the vehicle was on the rack, we also lubricated all the fittings........noise is still there.
But we did notice that the upper control arm bushings(both sides) have worn(open) rubber seals. Is this the knuckle ball joint that could be causing the noise (squeaking and clunking) that is driving me insane?
comments, please?
However, the tech verified that the present joints were OK and squirted some grease via a needle. While the vehicle was on the rack, we also lubricated all the fittings........noise is still there.
But we did notice that the upper control arm bushings(both sides) have worn(open) rubber seals. Is this the knuckle ball joint that could be causing the noise (squeaking and clunking) that is driving me insane?
comments, please?
The UCA bushings could squeak, but usually that usually only happens with harder material such as urethane or delrin.
However, is the bushing(s) were severely cracked or broken- it can cause a clunking noise.
Did the tech also check the amount of rear end gear play? You can grab the driveshaft with the wheels off the ground and check the amount of rotation it takes to turn the wheels. However, for the other measurements, you have to take the cover off.
However, is the bushing(s) were severely cracked or broken- it can cause a clunking noise.
Did the tech also check the amount of rear end gear play? You can grab the driveshaft with the wheels off the ground and check the amount of rotation it takes to turn the wheels. However, for the other measurements, you have to take the cover off.
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