CC plates are only needed when you can get enough camber back using the stock adjustments. Wrong camber is what causes the inner edge of the front tires to get chewn up while driving. The stock plates have enough play that you can usually work out the negative camber caused by up to about 1 1/2" worth of drop...but it does vary by car.

Another method without CC plates (pay attention b/c I'm dishing out some of my set up secrets), use fox body A Arms. They are just a touch shorter, and will allow you to compensate for the negative camber enough that you can get close to 3" lower over all and not need CC plates.


FALSE. GT springs will LIFT the car. I use them for winter. I've posted pics here somewhere.

 

woah what, tell me more about this fox body A arm deal please.

i really dont need to huge of a drop due to roads in san antonio but i do want a little drop, so if i go with about 1.5 maybe 1.6 with a fat kid then would i need anything besides springs and cc plates? how do the stock shocks and struts hold up with that kind of drop?

 

i know this but 1.5 inch drop normally doesnt change your camber to the point where the stock ones cant adjust them back... just as lilroush explained

i mean they are a good idea but if you wanna save some money they arent neccesarily mandatory... of course shocks and struts are gonna be more expensive that cc plates but worth the money if you can get your camber right with the stock cc plates

 

The only V6 springs I know of that make use of the stock shocks and struts are the Roush version. With much more of a drop, you will see added wear and tear on the dampers....which is why upgrades are recommended.

As for the fox A arms, they are shorter than the SN95 parts, so they pull the base of the wheel in a bit (counter acting the negative camber caused by use of lowering springs). Another fox to SN95 secret is that the dampers can also be used on lowered SN95 cars. It's a very slick combo to put together for less than what one might pay for parts made for the newer years.

 

Don't just get the springs...you need good shox/struts with firmer dampening to handle the lowered center of gravity. you also want Steeda X2 ball joints to restore the steering geometry, and yes, you want the CC plates to realign your camber properly. i'd also suggest a bumpsteer kit.

when i did my lowering, at first i just did the springs, and it was a disaster. i eventually got everything done in peices, but i should have had everything done at once: springs, cc plates, shocks, struts, ball joints, bumpsteer kit, and custom alignment.

 

also, stangsuspension.com has the entire set of tokico high performanec shox/struts for $300 shipped, which is only $100 more than a set of OEM monroes.

 

i think im gonna save a little longer and do it right with the complete set up, thanks for all the help

 

GT vert springs are pretty low. they will sit higher on a V6 but about the same as stock V6 springs with a very good spring weight.

i agree GT coupe springs lift the car. i went that route originally and it sucked.

the main thing for lowering is Bump steer. offset rack bushings can help and are much firmer than stock rubber bushings. Steeda X2 balljoints are really a good idea too

these springs are excellent for the price. i run them now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-04...mZ170268639218

 

Hey man, I agree with you 100%. This is the right thing to do, and your patience will pay off.