Engine running with trans removed?? Can it be done??
Can I run my 00 LX auto with the trans removed? I have the trans on the floor, as I thought the flex plate was cracked. It is not, and I can not determine the cause of a very noticable knock. The car is my wife's and with her medical problems, and the -40 C weather I can't have the car break down on her. I also have limited funds (go figure, broke in north america? never heard of that recently
and I would rather only replace that which is broken now. I am doing an oil and filter swap in the trans, and a tail shaft bearing, but if the knock is in the engine, then I would like to pull the motor now, before I reinstall the tranny. I figure that it'll run rough, but if the knock is in the motor, it should be amplified by the lack of the trans. If it is in the torque converter, input shaft or oil pump in the tranny then the knock should not be as noticable, or there at all. Any thoughts?
and I would rather only replace that which is broken now. I am doing an oil and filter swap in the trans, and a tail shaft bearing, but if the knock is in the engine, then I would like to pull the motor now, before I reinstall the tranny. I figure that it'll run rough, but if the knock is in the motor, it should be amplified by the lack of the trans. If it is in the torque converter, input shaft or oil pump in the tranny then the knock should not be as noticable, or there at all. Any thoughts?
I left the plate in behind the flex plate, and it had holes in it where the starter bolted in. Used bolts and nuts for the starter and anywhere else applicable, then used the original trans mounting bolts, through some 1/2" sockets (to simulate the bellhousing thickness) to hold it around the rest of the block. Attached the transmission indicator switch, and fired it up. It ran rough, as I expected, but did indicate the knock I have been hearing.
Anyway, on to a rebuild. Hopefully its nothing to serious.
Anyone know if it is possible to remove the oil pan without removing the engine? The engine has excellent compression, and no leaks, runs great, just knocks. I am willing to do the bearings in the car (I have done this before on other models/brands) if the pan can be cleared. Less chance of losing a bolt, or scrathcing the firewall, fender, etc. Also don't have to drain the coolant (which is brand new) and bleed the system, or worry about the a/c.
Anyway, on to a rebuild. Hopefully its nothing to serious.Anyone know if it is possible to remove the oil pan without removing the engine? The engine has excellent compression, and no leaks, runs great, just knocks. I am willing to do the bearings in the car (I have done this before on other models/brands) if the pan can be cleared. Less chance of losing a bolt, or scrathcing the firewall, fender, etc. Also don't have to drain the coolant (which is brand new) and bleed the system, or worry about the a/c.
you should be able to remove the oil pan if you take the K Member brace off its got like 10 or 12 13mm bolts and 4 10 mm bolts. (it just braces the car when driving so don't worry about anything falling on you.. except some dirt)
Thanks, I will attempt this and report back on my success, or failure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gary Ugarek
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
63
Dec 11, 2015 02:01 PM
Gary Ugarek
Archive - Parts For Sale
1
Sep 5, 2015 09:03 PM



