shouldn't the bolts for the bushings only be threaded about the first half inch to avoid over tightening

 

Oh ok I understand now, sorry I'm still getting used to understanding the placement of everything under there - I'm still having to rely visually on everything. I had to search for diagrams to understand my way around there so I don't know the names of all the parts, just what they look like lol.

But yeah I wouldn't know how tight they did because I didn't handle the suspension myself, I had a shop install all the parts for me. (Shocks/struts, Springs, steeda bumpsteer skit, CC plates, polyurethane bushing) had them do it all at once. But even though I had a shop do it for me I still read through the installation guides and study the diagrams to make sure I have an understanding of how it all works.

Still learning

 

They can be torqued to spec and still cause issues if th suspension was already in a bind. You can put the car on stands, which HAVE to be on the control arms so that they are properly holding the weight and loosen and then retighten the control arm bolts. If you've put a decent amount of miles on them, then the bushings are probably shot anyway.

If you want to go ahead and swap out the springs, just read the sticky. For what you spent having it done, you could have bought all the tools you need, including an impact and small compressor

 

I had new bushings installed along with everything. They were the aftermarket polyurethane suspension bushings from AM. But yes I just didn't have the time to undertake this myself since I'm a full time student and music teacher in the evenings. And no garage to work in so I can't do at night. But during the day I have an hour of free time, after school and before work.

 

But btw thanks for your advice Ryan, checking that lower control arm bolt would take me only a few minutes so that's something I can check out first